Phang Nga Bay 8'10.20N 98'20.49E

arkouda
barry latchford
Sun 26 Apr 2009 04:45

26th April 2009 8'10.20N 98'20.49E

 

Well, back in Yacht Haven Phuket after a season of long, strange trips all over the Eastern Andaman Sea, much entertaining of mates, many adventures and damn near 2000 sea miles; though with the satphone off most of the time, so no auto position update. And trips into the Thai interior, rain forests and wild elephants, moon bears, exploring the Laos hinterland, voyages up and down the Mekong, Pi Mai New Year festival in Luang Prabang, and much, much more. None of which made it to a blog.. And I don’t intend to write in retrospect here. So instead, a short (published) article about one of the lesser known aspects of Phang Nga Bay:

 

 

The Hidden Corner of Phang Nga Bay

 

Phang Nga Bay is rightly regarded as one of the most beautiful cruising grounds in the world. Tucked up into the far North East corner of Phang Nga Bays lies a superbly sheltered, visually stunning but seldom visited anchorage. Hardly anyone goes there – no tourist boats racing hong-to-hong, seemingly no yachts - we have always been the only boat there - the only other traffic the few, remarkably few, local fishermen in their long tails. Far up Klong Bo Saen in Thanboke Khranee National Park, slap on the border between Phang Nga and Krabi provinces, surrounded by lovely mangrove rivers, sheltered by spectacular limestone karsts, lies this near perfect anchorage, alive with bird life and in fish-teeming water; but no people – or very few – all in all, a great place to get way, way away from it all.

 

Getting there is not a massive challenge, there being a 4/5mtr+ channel all the way up, though wandering off course can occasionally create some heart-stopping readings from the depth gauge – those of a nervous disposition would probably feel more comfortable going up and down at mid-tide or better.

 

And so, the route: head north from the top of Ko Yoi Yai up past Ko Chong Lat, keeping to the east of the bizarrely flat – for Phang Nga Bay – sand island of Ko Mak, making to pass between the two imposing 100mtr+ limestone rocks, which have a very passable resemblance to the Pillars of Hercules, transported to SE Asia. Passing between these, follow the charted sweep of the channel north, then north east, then east towards the prominent limestone karsk panorama appearing in front of you in the distant mangroves. The channel is 5-10 mtrs all the way up the klong; but don’t be tempted to cut the corner eastwards, that way lies not only shallows but some nasty, sharp-toothed rocks below the surface, just waiting to spoil your whole day.

 

Follow the channel east for about 5 miles and you arrive at a fork in the klong; the north branch, either side of a small islet, takes you to the charming and totally unspoilt Muslim village of Bo Thor. For our anchorage keep to the east fork and after some 200 mtr you arrive at an obvious anchorage at the confluence of branches of the mangrove, protected on all sides by towering limestone karsts. A more peaceful, contemplative place to spend a day and a night would be hard to find.

 

Dinghy and/or kayak exploration of the mangroves is an absolute must – this being the largest area of natural mangrove in Thailand.  It is possible to take a shallow draft vessel all the way up the north fork of the klong to Bo Thor village, where limited provisions and simple, but tasty Muslim Thai food is on offer from the very hospitable locals, but by dinghy would probably be safer; and easier on the nerves.

 

A must-see, however, lies in the other direction, about a mile to the east: Tam Pee Hua Toe, the Cave of the Big Headed Ghost, accessible only by dinghy or kayak. In this cathedral cave, full of strangely shaped stalagmites and stalactites, is found the largest collection of ancient wall paintings in southern Thailand – dozens of human and animal representations from over 3000 years ago cover the walls and ceiling, including the eponymous Big Headed Ghost. A few eco-tourist canoe trips come down from a road head a mile or so further east – where there is a simple restaurant - but more often you will be the only visitors to this and the many other caves to be found in the mangroves. Something of a spooky, ethereal experience…..

 

So why do so few people come here? Well, it’s a long way from anywhere by land, and the closer tourist attractions of ‘Jambon Island’ and the like have a greater pull, and of course better marketing. But a fundamental reason for its neglect, I suspect, is that few people apart from the locals even know that this peaceful verdant paradise exists. It’s certainly in neither of the bibles, those guides written for Rough and Lonely people; nor the Pilot. You really do have to go looking for it to find it in a sailing or motor boat, and with the depth gauge sometimes unwinding at an alarming rate before your eyes at the entrance, turning back can seem much more prudent an option. But it is only 10 miles north of Ko Yoi, it is 4 or 5 metres all the way up even at low tide, and it is worth it when you get there. Just don’t tell everybody….

 

Barry Latchford, 20th March 2009

 

 

 

The ‘Pillars of Hercules

 

 

Arkouda in the anchorage, facing east

 

The cave of the Big Headed Ghost