18 27 N 64 32 W Grenada to the BVI
Swaraj 2022
Angus Handasyde Dick
Sun 9 Apr 2023 23:01
I am afraid we have been hopeless at keeping the blog up to date . So here goes a quick run through of the amazing time we have been having with lots of visits from family and friends. It’s been very special to share our time afloat with others .
Grenada to St Vincent
We had a joyful time in the Grenadines up to St Vincent with Jenny and Stewart Richardson before we said a farewell to them . Stuart had been such a stalwart on the crossing . He was with us from Mindelo until St Vincent (as well as Plymouth to Funchal). I will just pick out some of the high points. Dinner and rum punches on the beach with Gigi on Petite Martinique . A very special place so calm and well maintained and apparently unaffected by the throng of humanity in the West Indies generally and wonderful climb to the top of the Piton on Pte M. Swimming with the turtles at Tobago Cays and finally just enjoying Bequia . A most beautiful Island which appeared well run and generally prosperous. Also our first visit to a shop since leaving Georgetown Grenada. Very exciting .
St Vincent to Petite Martinique and back to St Lucia
At the south end of St Vincent We swopped Jenny and Stu for Andy Warren and Lorrie Murray from Gloucester. Lorrie is not an experienced sailor but she threw herself into life at sea - as cruising in the West Indies is not all about sun downers and palm fringed beaches . Rather the wind seldom drops below 15 knots even in the anchorages which are often effected by quite a swell .
We returned to some old haunts , Petite Martinique and Petit St Vincent with a new favourite anchorage - Chatham Bay on Union Island . We did a great walk up the peak above the anchorage which gave us magnificent views over both sides of the island . An excitement was meeting large tortoises perambulating along the path quite oblivious to our presence. On this occasion we had a slightly abortive visit to Tobago Cays . Too much wind and too rough to snorkel sadly . However a walk ashore sorted out the asateria and we departed back to Mayreau to Salines bay . A fab steel band was playing on the beach , a walk up through the village ended in a long conversation all about the island with a splendid man sitting on his door step . He was a retired teacher and very interested in British history .
Our next few days took us back up to Bequia and again we enjoyed this island and reacquainted ourselves with Miranda’s laundry and sundowner beers as well as her other clients (not only does she do your laundry but also sells beer) . We managed to sign out of St Vincent at Bequia for our trip north to St Lucia with an interesting stop at Cumberland Bay on St Vincent . We anchored stern to the beach with essential help from Kenny (who also has a bar). We Walked along the hydro water pipe made of wood and iron straps, then through pasture where cattle grazed and egrets strutted . It sounds idyllic but sadly the houses in the village were run down and the poverty was palpable.
In stark contrast Marigot Bay (St Lucia) where we said good bye to Andy and Lorrie was a culture shock. The marina there is gated with security guards, super yachts abound, rum punches by midday but need for a second mortgage - luckily Andy came up trumps !
St Lucia to Martinique
Angus and I then had a few days to get to Martinique to pick up James and Penny Kitson. So we had two nights at the north end of St Lucia at Rodney Bay and then
a lovely sail from St Lucia up to St Anne’s in Martinique . Our first fetch since leaving Mayreau . Quite a treat . (In fact we have now found out why the southern islands are called the Windward Isles - we were hard on the wind as we worked north, typically having to work to windward in a F5 to F6. The Leeward Isles have provided much easier sailing as we have since not had to beat to get north.
Martinique to Guadalupe
Bliss was the wonderful Carrefour super market at St Anne and signing in online at a wonderful gift shop / boutique . While Angus was busy with the computer I was able to update my swimming apparel .Excellent, as was the shopping for Camembert, Comte, Emmental, smoked chicken , pineapples, wondrous things not seen since the Canaries.
Having stocked up and collected our new party we went on to Fort de France . We anchored on the south side in Anse de Mitan for the night to try and get some shelter - oops went a little bit close to an isolated danger buoy and touched , luckily no damage and went on to find a relatively quiet spot to spend the night . By morning the wind had abated a bit so decided to risk the anchorage under the fort off Fort de France (capital town) on the north side of the rade. Found the signing out shop and we were free men. Explored the colonial splendour of The old town, walked to the highest point, enjoyed a great lunch and returned to the boat just before dark. Returned for the usual sundowner. Becky had started us of on her mum’s rum punch recipe of 1 of sour , 2 of sweet , 3 of strong and 4 of weak obviously with copious local nutmeg . We are developing our own signature rum punch along these lines . The only addition being a bit of Angostura bitters to off set the juice we are using which is rather sweet . Excellent we think !
Our next stop was Roseau on Dominica , a real highlight. We did the tourist thing - got a taxi which seemed to have 2 people in it already . A delightful couple from Guadalupe, who welcomed us in and then had to wait while we went to the cruise liner dock to clear in with Customs. Our trip that day took us on a visit to Titou gorge where you swam through to the base of a waterfall and then wended our way home via several other waterfalls and hot springs . We agreed with Herve and Annick to meet the next day and take the taxi again to hike to the boiling lake , a relatively serious 6 hr round trip through rivers and completely barren sulphur fields up gullies down slippery steep river beds and around precipices. The boiling lake is about 80 m across and lives up to its reputation. Slightly exhausted we missed the colourful carnival that evening in town .
Moving on to Portsmouth the next day we were able to visit the Indian river with excellent local guide Arvid, which was amazing and highly recommended by Sally and David . Our slight problem being we were all running out of cash. To our surprise Dominica don’t take cards from foreigners nor do their ATMs give cash on a foreign card (indeed James’ card is still in Portsmouth). So we just had to share out the cash as best as we could .
From Dominica we had a windy and rough sail up to the Iles de Saintes . Don’t ask James about this - best passed over . We were able to clear in at Bourg on Grande Terre . Inevitably the shop was shut when we arrived at noon, opening at 2.00 pm . So what to do - obviously chips and beer . The anchorage proved most uncomfortable with lots of wind and quite a sea. So we moved to the island of Ilet a Cabrit opposite. We anchored in 20 metre but at least it was calm if not a bit swirly . Climbed to the top where there had been a disco, an isolation hospital, a prison and originally a fort. Now just ruins but extraordinarily the water cistern was still functioning.
Further exploration of the Saintes took us to Terre de Bas to a wonderful sheltered anchorage Anse de Fideling . However it did take us a few goes to get comfortable. James will tell you he stowed the chain several times at each anchorage before the skipper and crew where happy . Don’t believe him when he says he thinks the record is 4 times . Still the turtles and snorkelling were well worth it . It’s reminiscent of the islands in the Morbihan . Real holiday villages, lovely well kept gardens and houses .
Guadalupe to Antigua
Penny and James left us at our final anchorage on Guadeloupe . We anchored on the west coast opposite Pigeon Island and the Jacque Cousteau marine park . Taxis seem as rare as hens teeth so we decided to contact Herve and Annick. They came for the day, and they were able to deliver James and Penny to the airport after we had all had wonderful snorkelling seeing rays , barracuda , and so many beautifully coloured reef fish and even the coral looked to be growing well . We have been saddened by the state of much of the coral in the islands further south. Suddenly to see some wonderful fan , pipe and brain corals was a real joy.
We now had about a week for Angus and I to get to Antigua to meet Em and our 2 little grandsons Max 4 and Ozzie 2 and Great Aunt Tessa who amazingly said yes to a holiday with this mini crew. The wonderful super market at the Guadalupe anchorage was invaluable so we topped up on our favourites and a few things for the boys and continued north first stopping at Deshaises.
For the uninitiated this where Death in Paradise is filmed. We were amused to see death in paradise day tours and a museum on the same subject . Even met a Brit in the supermarket queue who was here with the whole family to go on the tour ! However the high light for us was the botanical gardens .
Having been told that signing into Antigua was cheaper in Jolly Harbour than down in Falmouth Harbour we made our way there arriving on the Sunday, with a couple of days spare before the boys arrive. Chris and Kate Russell have a villa on the water with a dock where their lovely Associate 3 is moored. Chris saw us going into clear in and kindly relieved us of our laundry. When we finally returned the washing was done and all hanging out on the line . That was a treat. The Russell’s were also amazing to let us tie up along side their yacht to take the junior crew aboard the next day .
We also visited Charlie Kenlock an old friend of the Waite family. Charlie also has a house and dock in Jolly harbour. He also had an RCC yacht Maria moored on his dock, so we also had a momentary RCC diversion.
Antigua with the grandsons
So washing done and boat cleaned we awaited the onslaught of two little fellows. The good lord looked down on us with charity and we had a fabulous week of light winds - extraordinary and as Charlie said most unusual.
A peaceful night at Hermitage Bay was followed by an equally quiet night on the north side of Five Islands harbour. The next day we sailed under jib alone down to Falmouth Harbour and anchored off Deep Bay. Em has friends who live here and their 2 yr old was having a birthday party so the young departed to party and the rest of us went on a good walk to the Mermaid pools on the seaward side . Beautiful but a bit rough for swimming . With the wind still unseasonably light and in the west we made our way to Nonsuch bay . Anchored in Rickett Harbour. Max got going with his decathalon full face mask. Next day we moved to the enormous open Nonsuch bay and anchored off the swish Mill Reef beach bar. Again good swimming and lots of iguana watching . Great rum punch !
The call of Falmouth Harbour then proved too much and we returned for Max and Ozzie to have a couple of days with their mates Archie and Livy who were also by chance in Antigua. Their father captains Rebecca and the family were out visiting him. On route we had a refusal at English harbour, it was so full we couldn’t believe it . Remembering Christmas 1975 when there were 6 or 8 yachts there and a few beautiful schooners stern too on Nelsons dock yard . How naive we were.
So back to Falmouth Harbour and anchored off Pigeon Beach a quiet spot and 2 happy boys spuddlled with their friends . By the Thursday the forecast indicated a return to normal service with 20 knots of breeze from the NE so it was time to head back to Jolly Harbour. Having spent a quiet night back in Hermitage bay we returned to the Jolly Harbour anchorage . A rather busy night at anchor convinced us we must get more shelter . The buoys in the harbour were all taken so no room for us; however Charlie Kenlock took pity on us and offered us a place on this dock . A complete life saver - the boys were happy on a stable boat and we all heaved a sigh of relief that we didn’t have to deal with the dinghy and the weather. Emily left us a couple of days later to stay with her friends in Falmouth harbour , while we prepared the boat to come out of the water and have its bottom re anti-fouled for the next leg on to America.
We said goodbye to Tessa and were lucky to be able to stay with Charlie while the boat was on the hard . A great contact of Chris Russell was able to do the anti fouling - a great boon . So Danial was engaged and it all happened in the allotted 24hrs . Having emerged from the dock we picked up a bouy in the harbour to await Georgie’s arrival that evening .
Antigua to the BVI
Following a quiet day in Hermitage Bay to allow Georgie to acclimatise, we set off for Barbuda. Again we we able to fetch and anchored off the magnificent 11 mile long Sandy beach. Nobody seemed to be about and the town of Codrington is about 6 miles of dirt track away . There was a security guard at a landing strip who kindly phoned a friend and a taxi appeared . He took us to the customs post down another dirt track and we duly signed in and luckily out for the following Sunday (strictly not allowed as it was more than 24 hrs later). We all smiled sweetly and departed good friends.
Imran our driver then arranged for us to visit the frigate bird colony . Fantastic so many birds wheeling in the sky the chaos with their red pouches puffed up and quite large white chicks .
We had agreed that Imran would return to take us to a suitable lunch stop. We were chatting to a group of Americans, from a cat also in the bay . They were going to Nobu and so we tagged along as it seemed this was the only restaurant on the island. Great meal lots of fun , gorgeous surroundings and walk along the beach back to the dinghy a great day. Snorkelling occupied the next day with a visit to Shack a Kai in the middle of the day.
We left early the next day and sailed down wind to Nevis . Picked up a bouy for check in at Charlestown - a delightful town built of volcanic stone and most attractive with colourful wooden balconies above. They are really trying with tourism and have a heritage trail around town , Alexander Hamilton being a key figure although he was only born there and left at 12! The hot baths provided a diversion . By chance their agricultural show was on so off we went, felt rather sad for the ducks, chickens , pigs, sheep and cows in their small pens although they had canvas covers they were in the full sun . Prior to the show we had a tour of the island with Fitzroy Williams an 85 yr old retired school teacher - known by all as Teach ! Great over view of the island which still appears relatively prosperous.
Having moved northwards along the beach to a better anchorage, we were able to see some colourful fish on a man made reef established by one of the mega hotel complexes. We departed for St Kitts for White House bay . Should have been the perfect place for sunset spotting sadly it was rather cloudy so no green flash. But there is an extraordinary new marina with an extraordinary club house in the Dutch colonial style-shut, supermarket-shut, bar you guessed it also shut shut. There appeared to be just a few mega motor boats lying along side the very new looking pontoons , and a charming night watchman sitting in an enormous foyer.
Deciding that we needed to keep going we set sail for Sint Eustatia (also called Statia) about a 40 mile sail. Sadly we arrived at the weekend when everything was shut . However we were able to walk / climb to the top of the volcano - fab views . Followed by a great snorkel. Intrigued by an enormous oil terminal which was the main employer on the island there didn’t seem to be much else !
Having spent a couple of nights anchored in the bay off OranjestadI we were off to St Martin (the French side). The main reason for this visit was shopping. Super U supplied us with a great update to the ships stores prior to a night sail to the British Virgin Isles. St Martin actually surprised us with a great hike into the jungle and a little insight into local life . The hurricane does seem to have taken the stuffing out of the island and it still is littered with wrecks of houses and boats .
We had a great broad reach to the BVI and arrived at West End Tortola mid morning . A slightly tortuous check in process including an assault on the wallet, allowing us to be legal and all signed up to used their day bouys in the National park . That night was spent in Benures Bay, Norman Island a really peaceful anchorage well out of the wind and swell. Next day dawned to Scottish missell which persisted on and off all day. However after a lunch stop on Peter Island we set off to Lee Bay , Great Camanoe to be close to Trellis Bay for our next crew change just before the Easter weekend . The attraction of Trellis Bay is that the anchorage is just a 5 minute walk from the airport.
BVI with the older grandsons
We picked up Ollie Sarah and their 3 boys Fred (8), Xavier (6) and Theo (4)on Good Friday and said a sad goodbye to Georgie who left early on Easter Saturday.
We met another OCC member at Trellis Bay - surprised to find he had worked in Plymouth at a significant law firm and had lived at North Huish for five years in the nineties - small world.
Happy Easter all. The Easter bunny came to Swaraj and a mini chocolate high prevailed!
We are now embarking on a fortnight of cruising around the BVI . Paddle board and canoe inflated , NBS (new baby Swaraj - our tender) with her tan sail rigged already for some adventures.
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