17.45S 164.17E

JENNY
Alan Franklin/ Lynne Gane
Sat 2 Aug 2008 00:13
Hi all
 
It may seem that we are slow with our blog and I am but its a bit difficult when the boat is rolling about at sea,in port we have a mass of other things to do,so please be patient.
 
Vanuatu formally the New Hebridies is the jewel in the crown as far as our trip across the Pacific in has everything,from sandy beeches to hide away coves to communities which only seemed to have emerged from the stone age a few decades ago.
 
Every island seems to be different from the modern hub of Port Vila to the emerging world of Tanna where we went to see the very active volcano,can you just imagine arriving from a town that has the modern trappings of banks and shops and taxi's and arriving at an island airport awaiting your taxi which happens to be a pick up truck with no seats in the back only wooden planks.Being taken to the very edge of a volcano that is erupting every few seconds with molten rock flying in the air.
 
Its a long time since the earth moved for me but it was certainly moving that day.The road from the airport to the main village was earth and so were all the other roads you cannot believe what a throw back in time it is many of us suffered with bad backs after that trip but it was worth it.
 
On our arrival by plane in Tanna an island south of Port Vila we were taken by pick up (taxi) to our Hotel ?? which consisted of a series of bamboo and palm thatch huts in a village,the dining area was like a sort of village Long Hut with windows of sorts but no glass,don't ask about the food,it was very basic,but I suspect it was a fest compared with what the locals eat.
Unfortunately by the time it came to our accommodation all that was on offer was a room behind the kitchen I refused to share my bed with the army of cockroaches that would be lying in wait for fresh meat so we transferred to another village down the road to a Tree House.This was built in the same way as the rest but as the name implies in a tree but it had its own loo which flushed somewhere at the bottom of the tree,we did not inspect.
We were in the early morning arrivals from our BWR group the later group were also billeted in the same complex so we had company for dinner which was meat.The way it was declared to us implied that meat was a rarity .I was aware that the last case of cannibalism in the islands was not so long ago.
 
If I am painting a very tribal primitive sort of place you may be getting the idea modern roads,hotels,restaurants and made up roads do not appear on the smaller islands,mind you they don't appear much on the larger ones.The people are very poor but happy.
 
After a very fretful night in our tree house protected from the bugs by our 1920's style mossi nets I was outside on our veranda (branch with plank across) watching some native children playing and taking some video pictures of them.I went down to show them the pictures and some of the dancers we had seen the day before,they were both fascinated and delighted to see on film people that they knew.I had them in fits of laughter when I speeded up the film of the dancers.It was great to see them happy and to hear there laughter.
 
The dancing that we saw in another village was performed with great ceremony and gusto by the men of the village sporting bare bottoms and a sort of small brush at the front to cover their assets.The day after the volcano trip we travelled through the jungle by pick up to another part of the island to see the hot springs which just come up through the rocks on the shore ,its hot enough to cook bananas.The fishing is done by natives with bows and arrows.Lunch was provided in a local Long House in bowels made from palm leaves it was Rice with chicken plus fruit.
 
Everywhere we went the people were happy being largely unaffected by the world of tourism but know doubt it will come and spoil everything,still at least we could see their way of life for what it was.After this it was back in the trucks for a mad dash to get the plane 50mph plus on unmade roads was madness but we survived.
 
One not so little incident.Whilst we were doing our trip to the springs part of our group (Ellie and Alan Included ) decided to go back to the summit of the volcano,while they were looking down into it there was such a violent eruption that it spewed out boulders as big as cars straight over the top of them with all of the smaller molten rocks falling around them,some of them were shaken for a while Ellie thought it was cool.
 
Vanuatu was indeed a place to visit even with its dangers the people were very friendly it would be nice to visit more of the islands before its destroyed by tourism.