Arrival at Iles Des Saintes

Stargazer of Southampton
Susie and Adam (both think they are skipper)
Fri 25 Feb 2011 01:04
23:02.11, 15:52.48N
61:35.82W
On our last day in St Pierre we walked up to the Depaz Rum distillery which
is a mile or so out of the town, as usual it was up hill - then again -
everything from our boat is generally uphill. The distillery is allegedly
the only one on Martinique that is still steam powered, it is set in
beautiful grounds on the side of Mt Pelee with the sugar cane fields stretching
out to the coast below, I think I would like to be a distillery owner. It
cost nothing to go and wander round - you had to follow a marked path round all
the various bits and there were signs in English too, then after a hard hour's
walking about you got some free rum tastings - but after tastings you do end up
buying some Rum so they get some money off you after all! Distillery was
great - the sugar cane mashing mashines were driven by a steam engine which was
in turn powered by the burning of the waste cane - all eco minded really but the
plant put out about 20000 litres of rum a day.
2am on 23rd we left Martinique for the sail up to Les Saintes which are
about 75 miles away. We sailed past Dominica - which looked like a
beautiful rugged island covered in rain forest - think we'll do it on our
way back south as it did have a bit of a reputation for not being good for
yachts in the past but they seem to have got it sorted by the accounts of
everyone we have spoken to and we have heard some great reviews of peoples trips
there
Sailing in the caribbean between the islands is not a genteel affair - for
some reason you would think of people sat in the sunshine while the boat glides
over beautiful flat-ish blue water with a nice breeze to help them on their way,
maybe sipping the odd cocktail. No - Between the islands you
bash through waves in the full force of the trades, there will be no wind at all
behind the islands - then as soon as you sneak out beyond the island the wind
appears. Our trip was upwind all the way - We got a couple of good
drenchings on the journey but at least we remembered to close all the hatches
this time so it was only us that got wet not our bed, floors etc, we arrived at
Les Saintes at lunchtime.
The winds are pretty strong right now so we're anchored off a little
uninhabited island in the Saintes called Ilet Cabrit - this one has
the best protection and it's very calm where we are, although too many boats
have been trying to squeeze in which has made it sometimes less calm but now all
is quiet.
The saintes are part of Guadeloupe and so again part of France, they are a
little group of islands just about 10 miles south of Guadelupe. There is
only one island really with anyone living on it and it has a very pretty quaint
town with lots of sandwich shops and creperies (not sure if that is a word),
craft shops and a couple of food shops.
We went for a walk around Ilet Cabrit today - you can climb to the top
where there's an old ruined french fort, the islands main inhabitants now are
goats (guess the clue is in the name) and land hermit crabs which seem to like
sitting on the path - I kept moving them off so they didn't get crunched.
The other creatures we are sharing the anchorage with are a gang of pelicans
which fly around for a bit then bomb into the water from a great height -
they're pretty unafraid and dive to catch fish right next to the boats -
wouldn't want to be hit by one when snorkelling through as they are pretty big
and hefty. The pelicans are here as the bay gets deep pretty quick - going
snorkelling off the boat there is a huge shoal of small fish that hangs
around here - I went for a snorkel to have a look at the anchor - I couldn't see
it for fish so dived down into them and they all move as one to form a straight
wall next to you, it's amazing - usually you only see such huge shoals out in
deeper water. We're planning on going diving tomorrow just around the
corner in this bay - there are lots of dive sites around here and hopefully some
good ones but anywere too far out of this bay is a bit choppy just now.
>From the top of the island we looked out to see to the north and we're glad we
did the sail yesterday as today the sea looks pretty rough - we'd better stay
tucked up on our island for a few days I think.
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