The Summer that wasn't
Yellsound of Lerwick
stuart and linda byron
Tue 12 Oct 2010 16:33
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A week seems a long time when the weather seems
predictable Sun, warmth and hazy lazy days until sunset at 10pm and the
cooling North/North westerly evening breeze. Cant remember ever sailed
with winds constantly between force 2 and 4 and not four to six as
the Scottish norm. Also no rain for the last two weeks and wearing t-shirt
and shorts makes for easy laundry for Linda.
So after leaving Port Manesch at lunchtime,
we enjoyed a five hour sail, on broad reach at five and half knots
with all sails flying to the ile de Groix, a delightful island with lovely
sandy beaches reminiscent of Tiree. Port Tudy, the main harbour attracts
many visiting yachts who have to raft up on fore and aft mooring buoys. We
decided that we would rather be on our own and found a well protected anchorage
off the beach a mile or so from the town- La plage de grandes Sables.- so
expressive. Tuesday was a walking day into town along the coastal
path to see the Harbour for future visits and then to Locmaria across
the other side where the legs demanded a beer- A delightful bar cafe
overlooking a drying sandy harbour repaid the effort of the six
miles hike.
Wednesday was departure day for Belle
Ile - Another 15 mile downwind passage that took us 6 hours at a gentle
pace in a clear blue sky and sparkling water. The first two anchorages at Sauzon
and Port Jean were not for us- either exposed to wind or swell so once again
around the corner from the main town of Il Palais to Port Guen- another ile,
another beach and another coastal path into town although much shorter
this time. But not the same at all, this Ile is a main holiday resort with
Cars! and traffic and parking meters- a culture shock from Groix- and
dominated by the Citadel- a fort that oversees the town and the
seaward approaches. Up to 18,000 men could be garrisoned within its
walls and was another of the French engineer Vauban masterpieces of defence
structures.- Although it was taken and held by Britain for a
number of years until it was swapped for Minorca in one of the many
Britain/France peace agreements. Il Palais is a delightful town with the harbour
as its centerpiece- part of it drying and part of it through Lock gates to the
commercial area. Linda was so taken by the town, she decided to have her hair
cut so is now sporting a rather chic shortie and i overwhelmed by the fact
that it was not a glasgae special forked out for a kilo of Langoustines- almost
the cost of the cut!. - but they were delicious.
Next up the ile de Hoedic- one mile long and
half mile wide. recommended as one of the jewels of the Brittany iles and
fifteen miles offshore in Quiberon Bay.- only three and half hours from Belle
isle eight miles to the west. Hoedic is a holiday island similar to Groix
with resident population of 100 swelling to between 2000 to 3000 in the summer
season The cruising guides say come prepared with food and yet Hoedic has
two supermarkets with wine selections that would not be out of place in Tesco-
and only 3 to 6 euros a bottle-. The French do like their wine and would no
doubt riot if they had to pay UK prices for the same wines. Another two
nights on the Anchor and walks along the Dunes- certainly keeping us
fit.
 We were sorry to leave Hoedic but we had our plan
so short hop of 4 miles to Houat where we anchored up along with 150
others at the wonderful horseshoe shaped beach of Treach de Gourhed
at the south end of the island. The pilot
book describes Houat as "spectacular beaches,wonderful walking, a profusion of
wild flowers and very little else. A visit is likely to be the high point of a
South Brittany Holiday". It did not disappoint as we enjoyed a further
three days exploring the Island.
  However,on the first mortning ashore, we heard from
home that Stuart's Aunt Pearl had died in the Isle of Wight at the age of
95. We had only recently visited her three weeks before with Mike and Suzy
and she was in great form tho very frail. Pearl was the last of the Oldies on
Stuart's side so we were back for the funeral. As PLF was only 60 miles
away, it seemed sensible to return to ouir base and car for the journey home. So
two uneventful days motorsailing against light headwinds with overnighter at
Groix saw us back in the Marina. Another two weeks under our belt. As
Stevie and Sabrina were coming to Scotland on the first weekend of
September to organise their wedding, it would be later that month before we
would return to
Yellsound.......... .
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