Boat builders not Boat boys
Stream
Darrell Jackson and Sarah Barnes
Mon 19 May 2014 17:46
13:00.63N 61:14.52W As the sail to Bequia (pronounced Bekway) was only about 8 nm and the winds were stronger than forecasted, we had a lazy morning reading, which allowed the winds to moderate by coffee time and then we had a fast sail arriving in Admiralty Bay after less than one and a half hours beam reaching across the straights. As we arrived at The Devils Table reef (they do give them some threatening names) a man standing up in a small inflatable approached us and asked if we wanted any photos of Stream taken by him. Nothing ventured, we agreed hoping for some spectacular images. Unfortunately we were, by this time, running before the wind and in danger of gybing with a flapping genoa. Not really too photogenic. However, we avoided the gybe, which was not the sort of photo we wanted, and managed to carry on, also avoiding landing on The Devils Table, again, not the sort of photo we wanted. Just as we were hardening up to beat up into the bay, he disappeared - typical, as there may have been more photo opportunities on that point of sailing, Sarah sitting out on the rails, the boat heeling with spray flying from the bows as they crashed through the waves and that sort of thing. He said he would come round once we had moored and have a chat. We were met as we sailed into Admiralty bay by an eponymous boat boy who offered to help us pick up a mooring in the bay. He pootled about as we dropped the main sail and then we followed him in. Strangely after we paid the mooring fee he disappeared and we were left alone, not a boat boy in sight. This meant we could actually relax as we sorted the boat. In fact since arriving in Bequia we have not had any hassle with people trying to sell us things, just like old times! Admiralty bay is the focal point of Bequai. It is an enormous clear harbour bordered by steep hills and cliffs. It also has several bays and white sandy beaches around it that make it such a pleasant sheltered place to anchor. But then Bequia is an island of sailors and boats, that is linked to the outside world mainly by boats, they understand yachting! The Bequians are descendants of settlers who came from North America on whaling boats, from farms in Scotland and freebooters from France, as well as slaves from Africa. The island is only 7 square miles (18 square kilometres) and has a population of less than 5,000. We then took a short dinghy ride to one of the many dinghy docks along the sea front of Port Elizabeth, the Capital of Bequia, for a wander. Being early afternoon our first stop was a bar for food and a drink. At least with it being one of the Grenadine islands we did not have to visit customs and immigration! Port Elizabeth is a thriving community with a lovely feel. The waterfront is colourful with a range of weird and wonderful shops, stalls, bars and restaurants.The people are cheerful and welcoming. However, as we are apparently drawing towards the end of the season it was relatively quiet and laid back. As we wandered around we saw men building boats on the beach under the trees, using simple hand tools to make little "two bow" fishing boats and larger shiny sailing boats in the traditional manner. We then spent a quiet night in the bay and returned to explore the other side of the bay. The hotels and bars,on this side of the bay are built in the gingerbread tradition that we now associate with the Caribbean. Each one has a different pattern of fretwork, some of which is highly intricate and the houses are brightly painted. They have built a walkway by the sea, around from the main waterfront to the beaches. This and the brand new steps up the cliff (opened on 30th April this year) meant we could walk all the way along all the beaches along the coast of the bay from Port Elizabeth to Lower Bay, with only a few scrambles over rocks and around rocky ledges. It was a very pleasant way to spend the morning and we were even dragged into a small bar for a drink by the owner's dog, who accosted us on the beach and then grabbed hold of Darrell's arm and pulled him up to the bar. Honest! We sat with some Austrian yachties, Helmut and Sylvia who we had met with the unpleasant customs officer last week, looking at the beautiful beaches with the surf rolling in and crashing on the rocky outcrops, all virtually deserted. On the way back from our walk we stopped voluntarily at the Whaleboner bar for a cold drink, drawn in by the chairs made from whale vertebrae and the bar which is built from a large whalebone. Bequia has an active whaling station in a low key traditional way. Local whalers can take four whales a year, however, they don't always get them. Few people have the skills necessary to hunt them - a daring feat in an open sailing boat using hand thrown harpoons. When they do catch one they then have to tow it around to Sempers Cay on the south coast for butchering and rendering. True to his word our photographer came back at sundown with a sample print and a memory stick with over 60 photos on for us to have a look at. As we have no photos of Stream "in action" we decided to buy some of the images and now have them on a CD ready to print off when we get home. Thursday 15th May After our two night stop in Admiralty Bay, we decided we would have a quick gentle sail around to Friendship Bay on the south side of Bequai. However, the sail, although quick was definitely not gentle! We were basically sailing around two sides of a long headland. A good downwind sail then a hard beat through some wind against tide seas, meaning sitting on Stream was a bit like riding a roller coaster. Sarah loved it! Especially after passing the wreck of a coaster on one of the rocky outcrops. Fortunately it was only for a few miles and we eventually entered the sheltered waters of Friendship Bay and anchored just off the deserted beach. There was only one other yacht in the bay and they left not long after we arrived. We will have a shower tonight. After a restorative cup of Earl Grey and ginger biscuits, we dinghied ashore and landed on the beach, both with wet bums from the surf we passed through. There are two hotels at either ends of the beach and the one we landed by was not in use although work was being done around it, there still seemed much to do before it might reopen. We walked along the beach to the Bequia Beach Hotel which is reputed to be the best on the island, but once again, there were only 3 couples using the loungers on the beach and the bar and dining area was deserted when we arrived for some refreshments. On talking to the bar staff they admitted the hotel was quiet, but said it was the end of the season which apparently ends here after Easter. There must be some good deals going as we have seen so many half full or nearly empty hotels! After a pleasant lunch we continued our walk along the beach and apart from some fishermen and men working on the other hotel, we saw nobody. We both got very wet launching the dinghy into the surf to return to Stream. So we spent a while drying out watching the turtles around Stream, before going in for a swim ourselves. |