Day 25: I stayed put and became a Sastruggi....!

South Pole: Solo but Not Alone
Howard Fairbank
Fri 16 Dec 2011 22:18
87:27.776S 82:39.249W

Yep, no change, I have basically stayed right in my sleeping bag, in my cosy little tent since, I last wrote to you from this PDA! What a REAL luxury...!

It had to happen: A rest day, unplanned (although not totally), but advised by 'Mother Nature'.....

I woke at 4am a bit restless, as it was colder than normal, and the wind had picked up, and was rattling the tent quite a bit Went back to sleep woke with the alarm at 6am, started all the routines, adding a bit more face and hand protection for the tent de-icing mission outside. The 25+ knot wind was quite biting outside, and a check of the thermometer showed a not too different -24C. I was all fired up to go, but halfway through breakfast, it just became so clear today is supposed to be a rest day. I thought through it all, whether I'll feel bad tonight, etc, and it all just felt so right... So I decided to see what its like to become a sastruggi! Yeah, with the wind blowing the way it is and my tent running it's direction, we were an instant sastruggi root... The wind files up snowdust as it tears along, and then when it hits obstacles it tries to erode the windward side, and then dump its snow load on the downwind side. I did get out of my sleeping bag (and the tent) twice today, the first thing to check the tent, as there was a strange snow build up on the one side. This is when how quickly 'we' had beenn transformed into a sastruggi! There were eroded snow mounds formed in wonderful shapes at the upwind side, and then at the back where the entrance and cooking area is the snow was being dumped on the tent in huge quantities. Basically we weren't the perfect sastruggi shape so were being made into it! It's amazing how quickly it all happens. From I inside 'the sastruggi', there is a loud rasping sound as the snow laden wind tries to do its carving work on the tent.

But what a luxury day...I've never had one like this, all on my own, in the 'middle' of Antarctica, and sitting in one spot for 12 hours, and never bored nor discontent! Lots of little jobs to do, I even had to make a list so I stayed focused! Can't help myself hey! I sewed, I cooked, I totally undressed, I washed, I changed my underwear, vaselined my abused hands, cut my fingernails, I modified my hands free compass, charged al my batteries (the electronics ones!), I turfed out (burnt) out 3 litres of fuel and my garbage, I counted my food, rationed it off, repacked my sled, and then went through my photos and sent some off to Dominique for the blog...I hope they aren't too small...

With all this extra ( I certaily hope so!) food and fuel around, I had a wonderful culinary day, ending with half a pot of delicious smoked bacon in a sharp cheddar source

I then went through my strategy for the next 9 or so days to the Pole...the mindset is critical, I'm far from there yet! This is like a macro size version the 32km mark in a marathon...one can't think about the finish, the end of the suffering, the hot shower, etc, I must just PRODUCE day after day consitentt 30+ km days and it wil all just happen. Ahead, there will still be some challenges, some amazing times, and I have to just be ready to deal with whatever comes...

On the stark realities side, hearing the wind whistling past outside, I find it very special being warm and cosy inside, however I did think what would it be like if the tent 'gave way'...I'd be in a bad place, particularly if it was at the pointt I had virtually no gear on... The wind chill is so vicious bare skin doesn't stand a chance....I think its 30 seconds at the conditions I'm experiencing, and then the skin freezes. When that happens one can't get the very digits to function that one needds to get oneself out of the cold! Quite scary, thinking about that rapid spiral, but only using it to be proactive and more Amundsen like in my approach! 100 years ago today he was just starrting the long 'road' back to basecamp...hmm, that brings up thoughts of my kiteing trip bback...ooh, well one step at a time, I cut off thoughts about thee return, just getting there for me is a huge challenge.

I thought about 'you guys' a lot, and how special this journey has been together. Although I haven't been able to reply, I honestly feel I'm communicating with each one of you at a very special level...I think it's because 'you guys' are in my thoughts through the day, and I know for many I probably come up now and again too...Its quite remarkable. This was highlighted today when, I had a communication problem between the PDA and the satphone, which essentially means I wouldn't be ablee to send blog emails I suddenly had this feeling of despair that I'd be losing 'my other half', it was quite serious and bizarre. Anyway, fortunately I had a spare modem cable that solved the problem...and we can still 'talk'..

Last night I had a good chat with Ruth, its very special being able too share our individual experiences. I sensed we both got support and a feeling of deep mutual care from the call. She confirmed it's tough, but she is mnaaging well They were 60km behind, but going faster thaan me now, and on a slightly shorter more adventurous crevasse crossing route. Being solo I was disuaded (it didn't take much persuasion!) to not take that higher risk route. Nno doubt there will be many stories to share when we meet!

So, I have got 283 kilometres to go to the Pole, about 450 metres of climb, and somewhere between 9 and 12 days. I look forward to this time, and sharing itt with you...I know on all the big expeditions I have done, afterwards I always feel I miss the simplicity of life, and the clarity of purpose, and usually regret not appreciating the special time more....So, I'll be trying to live in every moment out here to savour its unique specialness.

Tonight I'll be in bed by 9pm for a luxurius 9 hrs sleep (vs 6 hrs I've been averaging.

Back from the road tomorrow ....