15:00S 147:80W
Meryon.bridges
Sat 15 May 2010 03:29
The sail from Nuku Hiva to our first island stop in the Tuamotus was fast
and fun rolling and bowling along with 25-30 knot winds and a bouncy sea. On
leaving the island we were accompanied by dolphins and a variety of sea
birds but they left us after the first few hours. The trip took 4 days and
we saw our first atoll stretching into the distance with coconut palms just
above the horizon. Most of the atolls have one main channel which may be
navigable for yachts at slack water. But they are narrow and tide runs
through at about 6 knots. So we entered Manihi atoll and threaded our way
through the odd coral outcrop to a sheltered anchorage. Wow what a
'location' with coral beach, coconut palms, blue blue sea and the odd
fisherman's tin hut. It was heaven. The following day, Monday 10th May, we
woke to pouring rain and a big blow so we were happy to stay put and do a
few on board chores. Then we had a tap on the hull and there was THE man in
Manihi, Fernando avec baguettes! Quel surprise. Not only was he the baker
but also a pearl producer, getter up of stuck anchors, head of the local
Mormon church and a very jolly fellow with a huge grin and wonderful white
teeth! In the afternoon the rain stopped and we took the dinghy ashore to
our nearest island (motu) and walked around picking up shells, admiring
crabs and puzzling over deserted buildings. This turned out to be an
abandoned pearl farm. On Tuesday the sun reappeared and we negotiated a trip
to the pearl farm in the afternoon. This was fascinating. We saw the stages
of oyster growth and how the mature oysters are grafted to produce a pearl.
The whole process takes about 4 years. Then we each opened an oyster which
we had picked up from the lagoon bed and found our own pearl to keep. They
were all surprisingly different in colour shape and size. The following day
we went to Fernando's house to select more pearls to buy. In between all
this pearl excitement, we went snorkelling from the boat and saw amazing
fishes in lovely warm water.
Next sail was to Rangiroa overnight with no wind so we had to motor the
whole way which was rather a contrast to our previous sail. So now we are in
beautiful Rangiroa, the second largest atoll in the world being large enough
to fit all of the island of Tahiti in its waters. Our arrival was welcomed
by dolphins who enjoy playing in the fast ebbing tide. On a visit ashore at
Tiputa and a quick beer, we heard of a big canoe race which was due to start
the next day further along the island so we upped anchor and motored up 2
miles to Avatoru arriving in the evening. Rain stopped us heading to join
the party ashore and heavy swell gave us a busy night with the anchor but we
awoke to a calm perfect day today. The canoe race began at 7am with 14 teams
of 6 paddlers in each canoe who had replacements to change over the 50 mile
course to the next island. It was a spectacular sight from our vantage point
on board and they are probably still paddling now. Meanwhile we have been to
the village for baguettes and lunch of tuna brochette before more lovely
snorkelling. It really is an amazing little part of the world.
Tomorrow we are due to visit a much smaller atoll called Tikehau if
conditions permit before our passage to Tahiti.