Leg 3: Las Palmas to the Half Way Mark

Kasuje
Stephen Rodwell
Sat 8 Dec 2007 17:57
Las Palmas to St Lucia; Saturday 6th December 2007 Current Position: 18 19N; 40 58W
 
We are at present in the middle of the Atlantic swell! We have just passed the half way point, and are heading nicely for St Lucia.  
 
We left Las Palmas on Tuesday 27th November after first completing necessary repairs to the forestay. We motored out in the boat to watch the ARC fleet leave on Sunday 25th, serenaded by a local Spanish bullfight band, and returned to port with a tinge of sadness at being left behind. Suddenly, it was quiet in the marina, all the mayhem and frenetic activity of the previous few days gone: the ARC flags were swiftly taken down, the ARC shop closed and just a pile of discarded El Corte Ingles boxes remained as evidence that 250 boats and their crews had been, had shopped and were gone.
 
So final provisions were made, the water tank filled up, the rigging replaced, final 'phone calls to home, and we were on our way. Several sources from Hallberg Rassy and ARC had advised us to sail with twin genoas poled out, the storm sail set as a stay sail and no or little main sail and we set this up before we departed. It took a bit of heaving to grind two genoas up the forestay. At first we encountered very light winds and were not all that impressed by our rig. We had to motor for the best part of 2 days to try to catch up with the rest of the fleet.
 
We had heard reports of open boats from Somalia taking young male refugees to Gran Canaria. If landed successfully, they have the right to be transferred to mainland Spain; if apprehended en route, they could be turned back. We spotted and reported an open boat that seemed to be empty and drifting. We were going to investigate but the engine refused to start! The first of the at-sea-repairs began! Bruce and Steve investigated each step in the process, found and repaired the problem. Meanwhile ARC sent reports of a yacht being boarded by refugees the previous day; this made us a little nervous and anxious to be far west of the trouble zone. While Bruce and Val were on watch, the winds blew up, the twin genoas rose to the occasion and we shot out of there like a bat out of hell, until Steve flew out of bed and came on deck to reduce sail! We have since been quite impressed by the rig, although we would look ridiculous in The Solent! It considerably reduces the chance of broaching without a mainsail, is easy to bring in or let out and reduces rolling - in theory, at least, as we are currently in quite a large swell and 'rolly' is an unavoidable fact of life!
 
We had some beautiful days' sailing; Steve fishing (sunbathing?) on the stern, the sea becoming increasingly blue, with white foaming waves crashing to leave a turquoise glimmer on the surface, dolphins, flying fish and a night sky to keep Patrick Moore busy for hours. Looking at the milky way through binoculars reveals billions of stars!
 
For the past few days we have encountered large swell (20 foot) which has made everything that little bit harder to do....cooking, eating, showering, sleeping while permanently rolling and lurching! We are now in an area of squally rain and thunderstorms, which momentarily brings strong winds. So far, we have found the twin genoa arrangement forgiving and easy to adjust even single handed. The water maker has packed up, as they do, and Steve and Bruce are deep in repairs and technical discussion. We have enough drinking water to last to St Lucia so if they can't fix it, we will simply smell! We have eaten well, due to Angela's victualling skills and a good supply of quality meat and vegetables from Las Palmas, together with an efficient fridge and freezer on board.
 
We will update this blog again in St Lucia, and post some photos. Apologies to those who have visited this site in the last 10 days and who thought we must still be in Las Palmas! We have been sending regular reports to ARC Control, which you will find on www.worldcruising.com
 
With love and best wishes to all, Steve, Bruce, Angela and Val