There was an excellent
crafts market where we bought Christopher a beautiful but fearsome, carved
bludgeon called a faaa a'ufala. I defy you to pronounce the word
correctly... each vowel has to be uttered separately!
The fruit and vegetable
On our way back to
Carelbi we came across a street obviously named after me!
The lives of most Pacific
people still centre around their churches and there are some lovely ones
to be seen...
For lunch we stopped at a
resort which had been badly misplaced on the map. We drove up and down the
coast road, being cheerfully and helpfully misdirected until we finally
found the sign in a completely different village and hidden cunningly in
the bushes. We were most relieved, as there was nowhere else to eat
without driving all the way back to Apia the full width of the island.
Sadly we had to say goodbye
to Anders in Samoa, he was returning to Denmark to take up his university
studies again to become a doctor. However, a Kiwi friend called
Stephen flew in to take his place and sail with us to Brisbane where we
plan to arrive in October.
There was little
lighting on stage and I apologise for the dark quality of these
photos. The dancers were really superb and performed separate men and
women's dances as well as some together. It is a shame that the purpose of
the dancing is not explained beforehand, as most songs and dances tell of
events in ordinary people's lives, like fishing in their canoes, tilling
in the fields, falling in love, tending their children, going to
At the end of the show some
of the audience were pulled on to the stage to dance. I'm
really enjoying myself here.!
Apia is the delightful but
seedy little capital of Western Samoa, and we were quickly checked in by
Customs, and able to go wandering along its waterfront to find Immigration
and a cafe. It is always wonderful when you touch land after a passage to
find a nice cafe, order coffee or, better in the Pacific, a fruit
smoothie, and sit and watch the world go by. We were also in dire need of
fresh provisions, fruit and vegetables as it was some time since we had
last shopped in French Polynesia. Carelbi is anchored here in the
middle of Apia Harbour.
The buses were really
beautiful, all gaily coloured and full of Fijians coming to market from
their villages or leaving with their bags bursting.
When we visited the market
it was pouring with rain. Rain doesn't seem to bother people here much,
it's usually warm and the sun will dry out your clothes really
quickly. You can mainly see huge piles of Taro roots in this photo, which
is a very untasty substitute for our potato.
We hired a car for the day
to visit the island, but seriously misjudged the weather. It sheeted
down with rain most of the time. This view of a little beach was the one
respite of the day when we stopped for morning coffee and a smidgeon of
Despite the weather our
resort still looked romantic! You can see little bures ( hotel bedrooms)
over the water and the beach that they overlook.
On our last evening we went
to a local club/restaurant where young people are trained in their
national dances and perform for the general public every Friday night.
I hope you can see this
photo properly. This night we watched probably the best fire dancing that
we have ever seen. Young Samoan men whirling long batons, torches flaming
at both ends, often one in each hand, in the most complicated rhythms and
gestures to the solo sound of drumbeats, sometimes flinging them high into
the air and catching them without a pause or passing them between their
legs and behind their backs. Their dexterity was
We left Samoa the following
morning, next stop Neiafu, capital of the Vava'u group of Tongan islands,
a place which has many good memories for us from previous visits. We had
really enjoyed being in Samoa and much appreciated the friendliness and
good humour of its inhabitants.