Olly and Karl headed North up the Kagtilersarpia glacier to an impressive looking ridge, broad in its early stages and becoming steeper and narrower towards their high point of 760m. Gringo and I headed up a glacier NE, towards a ridge and summits which we estimated to be about 800m. The 1:500000 scale map that we have rather conveniently had worn so much on the crease, that the height was obliterated; if that was even the mountain that we were trying to climb! We were attempting to scale the L hand ridge to the three high summits, and descend a snow gully that we had spied the day before, below the R hand skyline ridge.

Reaching the foot of the rock in about an hour, we roped up and moved together, up some good solid rock, but mainly over loose, shitty unconsolidated gneiss, up, down and all around to reach our first summit at about 1400, at a height of 875m. Great views all around! Plodded on to the middle summit where we managed to call up Umiak, and John and Mike spotted us waving at them through the binos! And then onto the third and highest summit at 890m.