08:54:95S 140:06:00W
The Adventures of Sunboy the Sailboat
Al Sparkes and Deb Swain
Fri 11 Jun 2010 02:56
Hello everyone, we have now been in Nuka Hiva for over 24 hours, arriving yesterday, putting down the anchor and sighing a big sense of relief, a full nights sleep and no more hand steering for a few days :)
We had a good day yesterday, mix of motor sailing and broad reaching passing through the islands and taking in all the majestic scenery, as well as catching a few fish on the way. They were more of the same we caught the other day and as we still had fish in the fridge, we unhooked them and let them go. We more or less threw the watch system out the window after about 8.00am and people just took turns on the helm when and if they felt like it. Debs soaked up the chance for another foot and leg massage and a bit more sunbaking but she turned around and made a beautiful lunch of leftovers in toasted tortillas. We arrived in the anchorage after lunch among about 20 other yachts of various nationalities and the only boat we knew was another aussie registered boat owned by a Dutchman and his Japanese wife who now live in Townsville and whom we met in Panama and saw again in the Galapagos.
The anchorage we are in on the island of Nuka Hiva appears to be the crater of an extinct volcano where one side has caved in and let the sea flood in. So basically for about 320 degrees around us are these magnificent big mountain sides, green as green and simply stunning. The water is a tad murkey and we have been advised not to swim here because of the number of sharks in the bay, attracted by the byproduct of the local fish market on the shoreline. When I say fishmarket, it is literally a number of bench type tables where the daily catch is brought out for sale and dismemberment.
We filled up our water tanks with the 200 odd litres of water we had left, with everyone intending to at least have a sponge bath before going to bed. We were greated by a norwegian yachtie who came over and gave us two beautiful big grapefruit and gave us the low down of the island. He is sailing with his pregnant wife, Anna and one year old daughter Liva and as I type, they are getting ready to come and join us for drinks and a bite to eat.
Layni got our little arrival party ready with a bottle of champagne, a couple of beers and a couple of cans of coke, some pringle and some nuts. We all had some champagne to celebrate, even Layni who had a little liquor glass full and as you know how much Layni likes to have a chat, well she really got going after her thimble size drink. We all sat back and relaxed and reminisced about the passage and were all feeling on top of the world. Not being hungry, Debs and I sponge bathed and went to bed, leaving the kids to make up some dinner and watch a movie. I think Debs and I were in bed by about 7.30 and asleep by about 7.31 and didnt stir until about 7.30 this morning, feeling totally relaxed, refreshed and recharged.
I went up on deck and to my extreme delight found a big plastic bag with three huge fresh baguettes inside, complements of the norwegions on La Familia. Evidently the bakery is open between 4.00am and 6.00am and you need to get your bread between those hours or wait till the afternoon and get it from the supermarket in the village. You should have seen the look on the faces of Debs and the kids when I brought them down below, it was like I was holding manna from heaven so within minutes we were all up top, devouring these beautiful crisp, oh so fresh baguettes, it was just the best thing, having warm fresh bread after so long without such treats.
So breakfast was had and Debs issued her instructions for the morning; clean the boat. So each of us was issued with tasks to get the boat back looking like she was loved and adored again and after a couple of hours she looks sparkling new again. We then had some lunch and headed into the village for a look around and searching for the showers. We have been told not to drink the local water in this anchorage as it is not potable so with the limited water on board and the very strong desire to feel clean again, we were looking for the public showers. Well we found them and would rate them as not the cleanest showers we have ever had but they did the job and we are feeling much, much cleaner and even more refreshed than before.
We had a look around the two small supermarkets and were pleasently surprised at the variety of food and the prices which arent too bad considering just where we are. The alcohol is a different story though. We had been warned that beer is about $4.00 a can in French Polynesia and were told to stock up in Panama, which we did. I didnt really think that beer could be that expensive but now can attest that it is not $4.00 a can, it is $5.00 a can!!!! Thank goodness our bilges have heaps stowed away. Wine is about $20.00 a bottle but we also have enough wine on board to see us out for a while. The French cheese is not too bad and we might just have a little indulge there with some nice fresh bread in a day or so. I did spy an leg of New Zealand lamb that was within budget so who knows that roast lamb dinner might not be too far away.
We have purchased some wi-fi but the connection is not much quicker than our sat phone so at the moment guys, skype calling may well have to wait until Tahiti I am sorry to say. Same goes for gmail emails but we will continue to use this form of contact for as long as we need to.
So, again, really happy to report that all is well on board. We will hang here for a couple of days and then go exploring a bit further around the island where some pretty spectacular anchorages are supposed to be, along with some beautiful spring water that we can splash around a bit. Take care and get back to you in a few days..............