Fw: Bahamas
syladyshamrock
dmccarthy
Sat 11 Jun 2011 15:55
300nm
plus. I have been sailing up the coast of Eleuthera, the most easterly of the
Bahamas. For most of the time the land has been in sight or some of the
lights anyway. This is nothing more than a sandbank on the edge of an
ocean, typically only 15-20m above sea level (actually limestone). As I
come up the coast it becomes clear that I won’t make my planned destination
tonight. Passing Harbour Island I can see the large motor yachts in the
basin. Not having the cartography for the region or a cruising guide I
look for the most likely point of entry and find a spot called Deep Cut, sounds
good. The
entrance is not straightforward and they’re are rocks in the entrance but not
many. I make a perpendicular line to the shore, straight through the
deepest part of the channel. Sea and wind from behind I run for the gap
while jumping in and out of the cabin looking at charts. Soon after I
touch, I jump back into the cockpit and hammer the engine astern. Glancing
around me I see large boulders all around and water breaking on them. When
I manage to whip the boat about into the wind and get it stationed, throttle
versus wind and waves, I am shocked by the amount of breaking water about me and
how far I have made my way in without hitting something. With boat under
control I stand as high as possible, straddling the cockpit seats and try to
plot a route through. Ducking, diving and crabbing between the boulders I
escape but keep driving on until I see 30m of water. Definitely my closest
encounter with loosing a boat. So,
back on my original route to Spanish Wells, I’m not going to make it before
nightfall, a reef to the north forces me out another 10nm while I listen the
captain of a motor yacht request a pilot to transit the northern passage, “oh so
that’s how they do it”. I
manage to get to the western head of the island and turn into a bay which is
pretty shallow, about 3m at most but transit-able. With 18kts of breeze on
the nose I decide that this is not worth it and find holding on a small
uninhabited island at the western end of the island. I dive to check the
anchor is laid correctly but for some reason I am nervous about staying in the
water. As soon as that is done I get out and cook a meal of chilly and veg
and look forward to a good nights sleep. Pretty
disappointed with the aridness, lack of provisions, expense and lack of water
under the keel, I decide to head for the largest town/city of the Bahamas,
Freeport Grand Bahamas. On arriving they’re are two options, the main
resort which is $60 per night and the summer bay harbour with “great
rates”, I decide on the summer bay marina partially because of the cost
but mostly because it has a draught of the 2.3m in the channel, the other only
2.0m so with that choice made I ran the gauntlet into summer cove
marina. Being the Sunday of a bank holiday the marina office was closed
but a local man came out and introduced himself explaining that he was the
husband of a woman that worked for the marina and asked the cleaner to leave the
door of the facilities open for me, of which I am very
appreciative. During
the night I had somehow managed to break a cast aluminium part of the vane
steering which rendered it useless. A 20$ taxi ride failed to provide any
solutions regarding finding a place to repair the part. The girls in the
office in the Lucaya resort were extremely helpful but still it was evident that
I was not going to be able to repair this until Tuesday at best , if at
all. With that in mind I aim to catch the next tide out of there and head
for the port of Charleston. Not being able to find the guy that looked
after me when I arrived I left a note under his door explaining what my motives
for leaving were along with my sat phone no. |