In early June we sailed through the Bahamas on our way to
America. We went into Nassau for
provisions, and visited some of the small bays and cays, snorkeling with
turtles, rays, fish, and one day whilst snorkeling we saw a shark which was
luckily not interested in us, as it was being chased out of the reef by a giant
Nassau garoupa. June and Pat had joined us in Antigua, and we sailed about 2,000
miles together, in the most ideal conditions, light swell and about 20 kts of
breeze, moonlit nights and 4 of us aboard. Many days we caught fish: mahi mahi,
wahoo, amberjack, tuna. As we left the Bahamas, we got into the Gulf Stream,
which swept us north, and we arrived in Beaufort, Cape Hatteras on 11 June,
having left the Berry Islands 4 days earlier.
Reports of a hurricane (Alberto) starting to
form in the area made us grateful that we had reached the States, and after
checking into Customs and Immigration, we motorsailed up the Intra Coastal
Waterways (the ICW). We motored up
the Pungo River and the Alligator River, to anchor in a safe hurricane hole at
Albemarle Sound, while the eye of the ‘tropical
storm’ whipped round us. Then we motored up the Pasquotank River, under some bridges and through a couple of
locks to the Great
Dismal Swamp Canal, a very beautiful part of the ICW.
This area is the heart of the country where the Civil War took place, and we
motored past many famous battlefields and strategic bridges. We saw a lot of
osprey and waterbirds, dolphins, hundreds of small turtles sitting on logs, but
no alligators. Some parts of the river are as wide as a bay, others are very
narrow with trees almost meeting overhead. The water is coffee-coloured, but we
were told it is peaty and treasured for its healthy antiseptic qualities. None
of us were tempted to drink any of it, or to swim in it.
We reached Norfolk,
Virginia on 17 June, and with 3 people aboard,
Consie took the opportunity to bus to Charlottesville, to catch up with twin Feyona and husband
Andre from Sydney, staying with a good friend Jeni, for a
few nights ashore. Charlottesville is a lovely town, the home of
Thomas Jefferson, and filled with lovely old cobbled streets and houses and
hundreds of pieces of art placed along the motorway and in strategic spots in
town. There is a lovely old mall, with antique shops and cafes and a big art
school. We spent many days with famous artists, David and Elizabeth and son
Christian Breeden, and Feyona and David sculpted alongside each other, swapping
art and techniques. Feyona’s exhibition at SOFA New
York went well, she sold 2 pieces, and then sold more work from a
gallery in Philadelphia.
Pat and June were leaving from Washington, and Olivia was arriving from
New Zealand on 22 June, for
just 13 days of her university break, the rest of which would be spent in
Beijing and Hong
Kong, finding out about language schools and job requirements. We
had a memorable lunch in Washington with C’s
Dutch cousin Coen and his bride Iris, and then drove to Annapolis to stay on
Restless for a few days together. We had one quiet night and a lovely sail
together before a series of thunderstorms and rainsqualls sent us into a
tranquil creek for shelter. Jeni returned to Charlottesville, having had her first 2 nights on a boat,
and then Feyona and Andre left for Philadelphia
on their way home to Sydney, and Roland and I enjoyed a few quiet
days with Olivia. Sadly her cat
Paka had developed cancer in his ears, and after 2 operations the vet
recommended he be put to sleep; this was a very sad time as all who experienced
Paka’s personality over the past 16 years will know. We did patchwork quilting, laundry,
watched DVDs, cooked Chinese meals, and caught up with each other. We sailed up
tiny creeks and met friendly locals.
The time passed fast and we hired a car to drive Olivia to Washington for a quick look round the boutiques and the
National Art Gallery
and Washington’s amazing monuments and buildings,
before putting her on the plane on 3 July.
We were invited to dinner by some Americans living in
Annapolis, and
were overwhelmed by the generosity of people we have met in this area. 4 July is
a big holiday in the States, and we were invited to enjoy fireworks with an
Australian couple living on the banks of West River, they invited all their kiwi
and aussie neighbours to meet us (we all had friends in common). The fireworks
went on around the bay surrounding us for over an hour and it was lovely to
watch from the cockpit of Restless.
We are hoping that cousin Caroline and Duncan will be
tempted to join us on the boat, as well as Jane and Oliver, to cruise with us in
the Chesapeake,
before we travel north to visit them in their respective lakeside holiday homes
in late August. For those in New Zealand, we hope winter is
showing some signs of improvement. We plan to be home by late November, after
celebrating Rory and Joanies wedding in Los
Angeles.