17:04.38N 61:40.52W

After Deshaies, Montserrat was an obvious next step geographically, but it’s a very different island due to its active volcano.  There’s only one harbour to check in and out, and that harbour is neither pretty nor well served by bars and restaurants.  The only reason to visit, it seems, is to visit the top of the volcano, the town of Plymouth which was partially buried in the last eruption and the museum.  We booked the tour, checked in and went ashore but before we could take the tour it became apparent that the dinghy dock and the anchorage were both too exposed to the building swell from a southerly wind.  Reluctantly we cancelled the tour and left the next morning.  Nevis and St. Kitts were on our wish list but none of the traditional anchorages there would have been sheltered from the swell, so we sailed on to Antigua, arriving on the 6^th of February.

We were mis-directed by the marina staff and spent a while spinning small small circles in the harbour before someone came up behind us in a dinghy and pointed out that we still had our fishing line out.  Over three thousand miles of not catching anything had conditioned us to forget it was there.  I quickly started to reel it in but it felt like it was dragging along the bottom.  Not too surprising at that speed in a shallow harbour.  When the hook finally appeared I was shocked to see a large fish on it.  The very tired-looking fish put up little resistance to being dragged aboard.  I licked my lips at the prospect of all those fish stakes and tried to find the tuna juice (aka cheap vodka) to dispatch it with.  Sadly, there wasn’t time to find anything other than Gordon’s premium gin.  Still, needs must.  We couldn’t bleed and gut it then, so we covered it up and got on with finding the customs office. 

It's been many years since we last holidayed on Antigua and the “welcome back” wasn’t the best experience!  With no response to our radio calls we were forced to find the office and the dock ourselves before facing the most bureaucratic process and officious ringmaster we’ve ever met.  Jane cunningly contrived to persuade him to give her their wifi password and repeated it in a loud voice so I could get on with a business call.  An hour later we were released and were able to head off to the marina, leaving some other skippers either fuming or laughing at how ridiculous it all was.  Back to the fish.  Sadly, after identifying it as an 80cm long tarpon, we learned that it was virtually impossible to eat, due to the numerous bones in its flesh.  Feeling very guilty about taking its life but not eating it.

During our three days in the marina we were able to meet up with Chris & Pam, who have a place there in the harbour  They very kindly entertained us and helped us sort a few things out.  Jane was delighted to make use of the swimming pool there but it was just as wet in the rain, which came down hard for a day or two.  We had to find a way to shed the water from the bimini but we were a bit late and the frame is now a bit more bent ☹.

After the marina, a very quiet anchorage in Five Islands Harbour was delightful.  There’s nothing there and the water was too murky for snorkelling after all the rain but Sturdeee was anchored next to us and it was good to get on with some jobs.  Annoyingly, we discovered our Rodkicker (the thing that holds the boom in place) was bent.  Just when we thought we were on top of repairs! 

With an upwind leg to Falmouth Harbour and an opportunity to take a narrow channel inside a reef, we opted to motor most of the way.  On Sunday evenings there’s always a gathering at the nearby Shirley Heights to watch the sun set with with a few rum punches, food, music and dancing.  It’s a must-do event and we met the Moose and Sturdeee crew there for a great evening.  The views over Falmouth and English harbours were stunning.  The steel band was amazing but the follow-on singer murdered some classic songs so we didn’t hang around for too long.

We soon discovered that Catamaran Marina was where a lot of our Cowes friends were gathering in preparation for the Caribbean 600, a 600 mile race around the Caribbean which starts on the 19^th of February.  Brett Aarons, Peter & Alison Morton, Pip Hare and Rupert Holmes.  A hastily organised birthday drinks on board and dinner at the restaurant on the dock attracted a few of them, some new friends from the boat next door and the crews of Sturdeee, Galatea and Portlish (Miguel & Claire).  A lovely evening. 

After placing an order for a replacement Rodkicker with the local rigging shop, we set off to Nonsuch Harbour, following Portlish and Galatea.  What a lovely harbour.  Similar to Poole Harbour in many ways with it’s multiple anchorages, surrounding greenery and shallow patches.  Lovely for paddleboarding, and snorkelling outside the bay where the visibility is still clear.  We’re staying put now for a few days!

Plans are well under way for Jane’s 15^th birthday party.  Yes, she’s a 29^th February girl so we make a special effort every four years and we will have a lot of help top celebrate it this year.  More later…

Giles