Tahiti

True Blue 1
Robin and Suzie Roots
Thu 23 May 2013 06:16

Tahiti         17:35S, 149:37W

The first bit!

 

Even in paradise the weather plays a big factor and peering at the grib files in Anse Amyot we concluded........ that there is no wind but someone forgot to tell the wind gods that, and the weather started to come in from the SW. Our idyllic anchorage became increasingly uncomfortable with an on-shore swell, so it was time to go –wind or no wind. We said our goodbyes, bounced across to True Blue, secured the dinghy on deck, and set off tacking into a stiff SW. Tacking??? We haven't practised tacking for over 4,000 miles!!!Ah well, next stop Tahiti

 

 

The dreaded ITCZ has decided to pay us a call.        

Yes, we set off  with a moderate forecast, but what eventuated over the next 36 hours was sooooo different. When the wind steadied at midnight at 33 plus knots we furled all sails excepting the staysail; our bulletproof answer to garbage wind and seas. Bliss…..(relative bliss!)….. True Blue glided over the breaking swells as the gusts peaked at 42 knots we were down to a tiny scrap of sail and actually did the last hour into Tahiti under bare poles! Then, as we passed the lea of Tahiti, it was as if someone threw a switch and the wind went to zero.

 

clip_image002     Finally(and thankfully) in the lee of Tahiti

 

 

 

So we with some relief we motored into the Papeete harbour and around past the airfield to the Marina. We were tired and glad to tie up in the marina!!!!

 

Tania Marina was expecting us and our agent arrived after lunch to sort our out paperwork. Suzie was soon on the internet and an air-ticket was booked, 80 metres of chain and anchors were lying on the dock, the rope locker was cleared and both of us were ready to rock and roll.

 

clip_image004          Anchors and chain ashore

Saturday morning we took a bus to Papeete for a quick look around, but after 12pm everything  shuts and the buses stop so it was a quick visit to the central market, a couple of hardware stores and a chandlery;had a bite to eat and back to True Blue1.

          clip_image006     Tuna weighing in at market

Papeete is not a town of remarkable sights, but its too early to pass judgement yet as we have not explored the place. They local council have discontinued the iconic “le Truck” busses that were open vehicles, and replaced them with ordinary buses – ah well that’s progress.  But away from the hustle and bustle of the town, we enjoy the relative peace of the marina whilst we gaze at the sunsets behind stunning  Moorea.

 

clip_image008     Sunset over Moorea

 

Getting to the airport for Suzie's flight was a challenge. Standing at the bus stop, we were informed by a smiling local who set up his hotdog stand in the bus lane, that no buses run on Saturday afternoon nor on Sunday, and it is a five kilometre walk. Hopefully we stuck out our thumbs at the entrance of a casino not far from the bus stop and some kindly souls took pity on us and took us to the airport. Robin later opted for a taxi back to the marina as he did not like the idea of a midnight walk in dodgy places!

 

Monday was “remove the old windlass day” ! Robin and friend Paul from Seventh Heaven  spent all day wrestling with the beast which, according to the book, should drop out after 4 bolts were removed. Not so, as we found in the Galapagos when Robin and Bill failed to shift it. In the end, bolts had to be cut out so the beast could be raised a little to cut off the old bedding compound, then much hammering and prising with screwdrivers ensued, until by sheer brute force the base fell away as it should

 

.clip_image010      The dead windlass goes to it final resting place

The resultant cheer (and the beer) was well deserved as both determined workers had lost many litres of sweat in the heat and humidity. Both were looking forward to the promise of a special meal to celebrate, being prepared by Ann on Seventh Heaven (see later)

 

While this was happening, mother nature decided to add some spice to the mix. Down in the SW Pacific two huge weather systems conspired to produce big seas which crashed over the reef and caused an horrendous swell . The yachts on mooring balls and anchored outside the marina danced like drunken ballerinas – sea sickness occurred at anchor! The marina fared not much better, with boats surging up onto the pontoons and the seas, breaking up the boardwalks and smashing the water system.  Robin had a premonition in the morning and tightened True Blue's rear mooring ropes, and although getting on and off the boat was a hazardous activity, they prevented the boat from hitting the dock. Now we know why the mooring lines are so thick!

 

As this is being written the VHF crackled with a Pan Pan call  for a yacht in trouble somewhere in the west of the island, sadly Robin’s French was not good enough to get all the details. Sometimes it is good to be secure in a marina!!

 

The new windlass was ready for insertion,but the weight of the windlass and the small space under the stem head made it very awkward. Robin resembled a pretzel as he grunted and manoeuvred the new Treasure  in place.

clip_image012           The new windlass on the block before its pristine appearance gets scratched with the chain.

 

 

 

Post script

 

Marina life can be “tough”. But it’s not all work and no play as Robin now has to keep an appointment book to manage all the invitations to dinner or lunch from all our cruising friends who are in the marina or at anchor. Cruising folk do look after one and other and they all know Suzie is absent. There are more boats arriving over the next week as the sked Robin started is still going and every now and then he gets an update on friends soon due in Papeete

 

clip_image014       Another wonderful dinner in the anchorage with Peter and Olana on Ocean Haven

clip_image016     Paella fit for a king on Board Seventh Heaven

clip_image018        Paul and Robin Two unlikely lads still smiling after the windlass is out and now ready to eat a delicious meal, reward for a hard days yakka