Anchored up in Noo Joyesey

A year afloat: to the Caribbean and back
Sam and Alex Fortescue
Thu 23 Jun 2011 13:09
38:57.01N
74:53.15W
 
Working southeast towards the mouth of the Delaware and the Atlantic Ocean today, we were immediately gripped by a helpful two knot current. At one point reaching 8 knots over the ground, we were all too aware that the present speed would have to be paid for when the tide turned. Still, good for pre-coffee morale.
 
As the miles have ticked by, what began as a barely discernible roll developed into a hearty chop which we crashed through at a disappointingly slow pace. The weather is once again muggy and close, and the horizon has shrunk to a few miles into the haze. Alex is still wearing a hoodie, but that's more because she can't be bothered to take it off than because it is cold.
 
Tonight's anchorage, Cape May, is renowned as America's most complete Victorian town... something like a seaside Clapham or Queen's Park, in my imagination. In reality, the 'historic' district is a few blocks across and, though sweet in its way, a little contrived with wooden fronted curiosity shops and places selling models of lighthouses and fudge. In the fudge shop, I made the mistake of asking what 'taffy' was (there were signs for it everywhere, and it sounded exotic). When the girl explained it was just 'regular taffy', I realised it was simply toffee with a New Jersey accent and slunk out disappointed.
 
We consoled ourselves with supper in a resto by the town's harbour. We had drinks and grilled oysters with cheese and spinach sitting in an old schooner that has been beached. Then we moved into a baltically chilled dining room for a big boil up of scallop, mussel, clam and a whole Maine lobster. Being of the larrge clawed variety familiar to European crustacean munchers, this beast packed twice as much meat as a spiny Caribbean effort and was much appreciated. After covering 65 miles yesterday and 55 today, we reckoned we deserved it. Obviously, these things are relative
 
The pressure is now on to reach New York by Saturday, for a reunion with Alex's mum Marina and family friend Paul. If we have today's wind again tomorrow, it'll be a fast passage north to Ocean City. There is an inshore canal here that winds through the marshes nearly as far as New York, but it's too shallow for us, so we have to barve the rigours of the Atlantic again. If nothing else, it'll be good to see some clean, blue water...