Where the frigate birds soar

A year afloat: to the Caribbean and back
Sam and Alex Fortescue
Thu 13 Jan 2011 13:47
We're still on the track of Tilly Mint (my brother Alex's boat) from last winter. We're now anchored up in Bequia after an exceedinhly sploshy sail up from Tobago Cays. We went for a tour of the island in an openbacked truck yesterday, and our guide told us that this was considered 'bad' weather. The sun is relentless, the wind is constant and the seas are a bit choppy. If this is bad, then what the devil is good? It must be like skating over a smooth, flat lake.
 
We're in Admiralty Bay, the smoothest anchorage on the island and the location of the main town, Port Elizabeth. The water even here, with ferries plying a busy route to neighbouring St Vincent is turquoise-clear, and Andy swims in to the bakery on the shore every morning with a dry bag to buy coconut bread. Despite hundreds of yachts in the bay, and the island's status as a yottin' mecca (all the Scandinavians on the ARC made a beeline here for Christmas), the many bars and restos on the island seem curiously empty, and the locals reluctant to engage in any sort of trading activity, be it cooking or guiding. There is, however, a thriving market for 'ganga', which maybe explains this curious reticence.
 
We spent yesterday afternoon idling on Princess Margaret beach, so called because the controversial lady herself once dipped her toe in the water there. It is the sort of palm fringed Caribbean affair that we've only come across a couple of times, and made a great way to lounge. It was also peppered with almonds, fallen from huge trees with great waxy leaves. My knowledge of the natural world leaves me floundering here, but could it be that the almonds we eat at Christmas come from Caribbean shores?
 
Tobago Cays - Worlds End Reef
 
 
 
Andy eyeballing the horizon
 
 
 
Local fast food - jerk chicken
 
Old Hegg turtle sanctuary
 
Bequia tour