Crossing the Equator, Pollywogs and no Shellbacks
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00:02.3S 092:30.211W Crossing the Equator, Pollywogs and no Shellbacks We were approaching The Galapagos Islands at midnight on 11 May. Although not stopping we were passing the outlying island of Pinta about 5 miles away. It was pitch black, totally black, for the waning moon had not yet risen. We made brief contact on the SSB radio with our friends on Endorphin Beta over 3000 miles away. Unfortunately it was just an exchange of names as there was too much static to hold a conversation. As we continued approaching Isla Pinta, still nothing to be seen, so we started the generator and switched on the radar. The radar uses quite a lot of battery power, hence the use of the generator. Sure enough the island was there, we were well clear. It is good to check with the radar as many of the charts in the remoter parts of the world may not be totally accurate and correspond with positions coming from the GPS. Many of the charts were derived from the 19th century using a sextant to obtain positions. The most northerly little island of The Galapagos group, appropriately named Isla Darwin, has a message written next to it on the admiralty chart: reported to be 2 miles North of charted position. Care is needed when close to land or a reef for example. Although GPS has vastly improved navigational accuracy, you need to back up your position with other checks. About 1am local time the moon rose and the faint outline of the island was distinguishable. At sunrise the largest island in the group, Isla Isabella could easily be seen. A few little regrets about not stopping in The Galapagos. But even a few days stay costs the same as if staying three weeks, so we need to be practical and get on to The Marquesas. We have heard fantastic reports about them and better for ‘yachties’ than The Galapagos. The Galapagos is the first land we have seen for just over 10 days and after we pass will be the last we see for the next three weeks or maybe, depending on the wind, even longer. The equator crosses through the largest island Isabella. It also just past 90 degrees West so a quarter of the way round the world from the Greenwich Meridian. A bit further than a quarter of the way round for us, as we started our trip from Greece. In the mid-morning and afternoon we were totally becalmed. Took it in turns to jump overboard and clear some fishing gear wrapped round the prop. After slowly drifting back to the North West, we reluctantly used the Japanese iron headsail, the engine! We
crossed the equator at 02:28 local time (08:28 UTC). We crossed at the point 92
degrees 25 minutes West. We were at last in The Southern Hemisphere. The origins of Neptune’s role in the ceremonies when crossing the equator are not known. It probably started in the 17th century when European sailing ships started crossing the equator. The traditional ceremony involves King Neptune arriving on board with his court and making the Shellbacks those who have crossed the equator before, perform a number of disgusting acts on the Pollywogs, those who have not crossed before. The Pollywogs were smeared in rotten fruit, oil, rubbish and anything disgusting they could find. They then had to down a penalty drink, a very strong disgusting drink like beer laced with strong rum. And if that was not enough the Pollywogs then had all their hair shaved off! What to do, we were two Pollywogs and although both of us have in previous lives flown over the equator a few times, neither of us had crossed at sea. There were thankfully no Shellbacks on board! But we could not cross The Equator without doing something. We are alcohol free when sailing, but crossing the equator for King Neptune’s sake we had to make a little exception. We are after all a boat named after a Scottish island and we have a Scottish lass on board so felt obliged to have a wee dram of one of Islay’s best malts. So we put on some music had a little party, toasted Neptune and crossed the equator to Rod Stewarts ‘Sailing’. Us perform disgusting acts…never! S/Y
Golden Spirit of Islay |