Diary Entries

• 2013
  • May 2013
    • Thu 23 May
      • Heavenly! Sailing on calmed seas under constant fair winds, broad reach under the sun to Rodrigues... hope in 2 days.
    • Wed 22 May
      • Tonight the moon is silver on the tops of the watey hills, the wind is great for sailing and... we will make Rodrigues!
      • Some sun, winds 22kn giving us good speed, no suicidal flying fish last night: all going well (if NOISY and BUMPY!)
    • Mon 20 May
      • Going strongly with 18-25 knots on beam (then squalls); could be called boisterous seas; breakdancing crew!! All fine.
    • Sun 19 May
      • Big seas, big waves (currently confused, YUK!), lots rain (soup days!), now good winds... all well on Ketoro!
    • Sat 18 May
      • Oh boy, HORRIBLE seas, winds from every direction, current against, rain, lightning, repairs on cockpit roof. How much fun can there be in a day!?
    • Fri 17 May
      • Fri: east of Great Chagos Banks - great fishing: but they take our lures and we don't eat!
      • Thurs: bye to Chagos, next stop Rodrigues... hopefully...!
    • Sat 11 May
      • Takamaka Island, last stop in Chagos: alone here in the wild remote atoll again, and LOVE it - but leave in 3 days....
  • Apr 2013
    • Sun 28 Apr
      • Salomon Atoll, the less wild Chagos (but no fishing cos freezer died and we must EAT MEAT!!!
    • Wed 24 Apr
      • Exquisite island anchorage: Ile Diamant. The colours are as in a dream.
    • Mon 15 Apr
      • Escorted into heaven by flocks of frigates and gannets; dolphins in the bows - we are at Chagos!
      • No wind, big current against us.... this is a SLOOOOOW process!
    • Sun 07 Apr
      • Gan, Addu Atoll: remembering our fist time here, 3 years ago - will retrace some steps!
      • Foamullah harbour: fishing with nets at entrance; inside, many crossed light anchor lines of moored fishing boats: easier to spend night at sea!
      • (Yesterday) "Swam" across equator (dragged by boat); champagne; whale alongside, not 10m away. Awed, unnerved, jubilant. Cheers!
    • Fri 05 Apr
      • Faress - Poor second to Kaashido, where we could not anchor, but a good place to fix generator and get ready for Gan.
      • Kaashido: exquisitely beautiful - and could not find a place to anchor safely; had to move on (at speed, before dark...)
    • Tue 02 Apr
      • Back again, 3 years later, to a fantastic place. Melaimu, North Huvadoo Atoll
    • Mon 01 Apr
      • Veymandhoo island: curious locals, ok anchorage, good Short Eats on shore!
  • Mar 2013
    • Sat 30 Mar
      • Happiness! After yesterday (exhausting night, anchor watches, strong winds) now anchored safely in calm ...SLEEP!
    • Wed 27 Mar
      • Magoodhoo - extraordinary experience: 2 huge manta rays looping and feeding around us for an hour. Amazing.
    • Sat 23 Mar
      • Back in heaven: best snorkelling to our west, soft beach sand for hair salon on east, crystal clear water for boat cleaning below!
      • Great place to access ferry... and this time not anchored with dredger and industrial noise!
    • Wed 20 Mar
      • Dhigurah island lagoon. We are in heaven: beautiful snorkelling, views, peace, no visible inhabitants.
      • Maamigili lagoon; anchored at dusk alongside dredger and channel for resort traffic!! But safe at least.
      • Conrad Rangali Reosrt, man-made harbour, told us not welcome. Had to make haste before sunset to next one...
    • Mon 18 Mar
      • Moofushi Island is absolutely beautiful, and resort wonderfully accommodating of us. 5 Star!
    • Sat 16 Mar
      • Ari Atoll, Halaveli Island... lovely resort and the most wonderful snorkelling!
    • Tue 12 Mar
      • Arrived in Male, processed, ready to go! Yippee!
      • Last morning at sea, we arrive tomorrow. Dolphins up front, beautiful sunrise, a swim: heaven.
    • Mon 11 Mar
      • Amazingly clear blue sea for a lunch STOP and swim. Clearly little wind (but we did hold tight!)
      • Beautiful sailing on rolling, gentle blue seas (after horrrible night weaving around fishing boats). Dorado for supper... and lunch... and supper..
    • Fri 08 Mar
      • 5 hours to cross busy shipping channel, then wonderful sailing under full sail.
      • Sri Lankan fishing boat chased us for miles for hand-outs (not received); unnerving experience.
    • Mon 04 Mar
      • Today's tally: 1 gale, 2 repaired engines, 5 sail changes, 1 dorado, 60litre RO water in sea: all plain sailing really!
    • Sat 02 Mar
      • Hand-furling huge spinnaker sail on deck, watching dolphins in bow waves, trying find favourable current, given up on wind...
    • Fri 01 Mar
      • Passing Nicobar Islands: from Andaman Ssea to Indian Ocean, and at last current in our favour
  • Feb 2013
    • Wed 27 Feb
      • No wind means SLOOOW going, but GREAT under-boat swim and peaceful sunset dinner!
    • Mon 25 Feb
      • Ao Chalong, the last night before we leave beautiful Thailand for good. Thanks for everything!
• 2012
  • Dec 2012
    • Sun 02 Dec
      • Ketoros home for a month while we go to SA! Happy Christmas!
    • Sat 01 Dec
      • Big bay on west of Ko Yao Yai: green, lush, .... Let's go see the mangroves!
  • Nov 2012
    • Thu 29 Nov
      • Catch-up with friends at Ao Chalong
      • Loi Krathong - boat-version krathong sent flaming to sea to appease Goddess of water.
    • Wed 28 Nov
      • Incredible bird life and thousands of bats on Chicken island this time: beautiful!
    • Mon 26 Nov
      • Contender for most beautiful Thai beach: Railay. Embraced by stunning rock cliffs.
    • Tue 20 Nov
      • Ao Nang, Krabi: stocks and meal and massage on the list....(heels for Rolf)
      • The prettiest island, lovely sea.... Big shark enjoying it with me AAAARGH fright!
    • Sun 18 Nov
      • Ko Khlui's tall straight faces on one side, friendly fishermen the other.
    • Thu 15 Nov
      • Ko Chong Lat, beautiful anchorage protected from weather from all sides
      • In the klongs: mangrove rivers and swamps with stunning caves (and heat and mud and voracious mozzies)
    • Wed 14 Nov
      • Treating ourselves to on-shore meal and pool! Yay for Paradise resort!
      • Treating ourselves to on-shore meal and pool! Yay for Paradise resort!
    • Mon 12 Nov
      • Favourite place, but not with the big squall to greet us! Heaven descended later.... Ko KuDu
      • Rafting boats, braai on beach with local, ex-SA friends: home from home...
    • Fri 09 Nov
      • Too many dayboats, but love all the eagles and view of island... and internet access!!
      • Ko Khai, wonderful 20m overhang with stalactites to drive under, and hong... and beach...
      • Dinghy adventures in hongs and mangroves: fun times at Ko Raya
      • Exploring a cool sink-in-to-your-knees muddy hole / cave through the bottom of island... Ko Thalu
    • Sun 04 Nov
      • Wonderful peace and beauty at Ko Deng Yai
      • Oh JOY! No more marina work, just wonderful cruising in the bay....
  • Oct 2012
    • Thu 18 Oct
      • At LAST!!! Back in the water... But still working on her....
    • Fri 05 Oct
      • Boat Lagoon: Ketoro on hardstand for a month
    • Thu 04 Oct
      • Waiting off Ko Rang to enter Boat Lagoon; storms abated at last!
      • Chicken islands a LOVELY place to hide (like chickens!) in this fierce SW monsoon time
      • Eek! Huge winds bending round Yongkasem Bay headland pushing us too close to the reef...
      • Hiding from storms at Ko Muk, having ripped a headsail on way up
      • On our way up to Phuket, first night Ko Bulan
  • Jun 2012
    • Mon 11 Jun
      • Ketoro's home until September: time for the baby run! Yay!
    • Wed 06 Jun
      • Hiding from the weather in gorgeous spot with 30 fishing boats, tug and barge!
    • Mon 04 Jun
      • A new island for us, but clearly not for the fishing boats; hoping for baby sharks on our snorkel!
    • Sat 02 Jun
      • Wonderful sea and white beach and snorkelling again! Ko Rawi, Butangs
    • Fri 01 Jun
      • Rok Noks, fixing engine; Ketoro is teaching us about being on the move again!
      • Phi Phi island, fixing chafed-through reef line
  • Mar 2012
    • Fri 30 Mar
      • Back at Yacht Haven, leaving boat for 7 weeks travel... China here we come!
      • Always beautiful here, and not burgled again since first time...!
      • Wind and rolly sea drove us to this west side for a change, and glad of it!
      • Haircut time! And drinks on beach...
      • Hundreds of sea stars in the mud at low tide at Ko Hong Krabi... Just waiting for water!
      • Another great unofficial meal at Chok'D... They were "closed" again....
      • Coral island to find the Crown of Thorns: got it!
    • Fri 23 Mar
      • Nai Harn offers massages, meals, beautiful sea and beach.... Come!
    • Mon 19 Mar
      • Came in on a massive storm, going out on a breeze with Sonja and Delwin
    • Tue 13 Mar
      • Richelieu rock... Spectacular diving on pinnacles rising from nowhere!
    • Sun 11 Mar
      • Awesome diving spots alongside channel west of us, 2 dives from dinghy.
      • In the channel between two Surin islands: centre is turquoise waters, sides all green.
      • Change of scene.... From beautiful to ridiculously beautiful!
    • Sat 10 Mar
      • On the other side; perfectly alone in beautiful bay with crystal water and steep treed sides
    • Fri 09 Mar
      • Awesome Ko Surin: stunning islands, great wall drop-offs for snorkelling, clear sea
    • Thu 08 Mar
      • Remote, quiet, few chalets, long-tail transport: lovely Koh Chang
    • Mon 05 Mar
      • Long Beach, Ko Payam... And it really is!!! Long.... And waiting to be explored....
    • Sun 04 Mar
      • We are at Ko Phayam! Remote, quiet, lovely bay, islands of Burma to west.
    • Sat 03 Mar
      • Surrounded by lovely islands, small rocky beach scheduled for haircut@Ko Kai Nui Salon!
    • Fri 02 Mar
      • Mangroves and island one side, mainland hills shrouded with cloud on other; Ko Ra
      • Such an interesting waterway with pretty greened sides and fishermen trying for supper
      • Entering interesting waterway between islands and mainland
    • Thu 01 Mar
      • Khao Lak Beach, overnight on our way north to Burma border.
  • Feb 2012
    • Wed 29 Feb
      • This favourite spot means airport goodbyes today, sadly... Next time a hello!
      • Wonderful: sleeping alongside and snorkelling round a tiny rock island, Ko Waeo
    • Sat 25 Feb
      • What do you do at Patong? People watch, do the tailors, drink cocktails!
      • Wow! Incredible sighting of large cuttlefish feeding at gorgeous Freedom Bay
      • A beautiful stop for visitors and lots to do/see/buy....
      • Happiness! Snorkelling again, but many urchins indicate poor reef.
      • Cute Chok'D bar opened for us on this tiny private rock/island
      • Wonderful! Rai Lee Bay, astounding Krabi karst cliffs and crystal sea...
      • New spot:Ao Nang, Krabi; fisherman angry at us for using his buoy....
      • Time to watch the climbers and marvel at the wall face seemingly metres from us
      • Another beautiful island with beach, hong, snorkelling: Ko Hong Krabi
    • Thu 16 Feb
      • Mooring buoy off Paradise Beach Resort for a swim and treat lunch... then off again!
      • Ko Ku du channel: stunning anchorage between two cliffs, strong tide if swimming.
      • Ko Ba Tang: a lunch stop! Clear, cool water swim to tiny beach under more cliffs...
      • Ko Daeng Yai: Lovely new stop, towering cliff one side, sea eagles, pink dawn..
      • Ao Po marina to await Mark and Livi
      • Wonderful snorkelling with Erik; trooublesome double-buoy tie-up!
      • (no subject)
  • Jan 2012
    • Sun 15 Jan
      • Back at Nai Yang; seems 14 other yachties also hold this as their favourite beach anchoring spot!
      • What fun! Dinghy exploration of river, fishing boats, lagoon at high tide: come in and see.
• 2011
  • Dec 2011
    • Fri 30 Dec
      • Nai Harn, how lovely: Jungle Beach, beautiful river into sea, improved weather!
    • Mon 26 Dec
      • Family day "treat" for B+K: sailing in 45kn gales, anchored in Patong and bouncing on boat!
    • Sun 25 Dec
      • Christmas Day 2011 with Barry and Kay at Surin Beach; only challenges huge winds and a rolly boat!
    • Fri 23 Dec
      • Nai Yang again.. Gentle, pretty, plenty Thai treats like food, massage Madame...!
    • Tue 20 Dec
      • Laem Sing, a new find... a Christmas morning spot it will be! Sea splashing over rocks, beautiful treed headland, pretty beach...
    • Mon 19 Dec
      • Pretty Nai Harn bay, but HOW do we get dinghy on shore??? Reef, waves....
    • Sun 18 Dec
      • Panwa Bali in Ao Chalong, SO nice to be on anchor after the marina!
    • Sun 11 Dec
      • Boat Lagoon Phuket again.... sawasdee ka!! Week here to work on boat.
    • Sat 10 Dec
      • Ko Rang feels like home! Convenient for Boat Lagoon entry at high tide in morning...
      • Dire warnings and cautions do not deter Rolf from using this channel short-cut! (successfull!)
    • Fri 09 Dec
      • More beautiful beaches and sea and hongs!!! Such hardship... Ko Hong, Krabi
    • Thu 08 Dec
      • Heaven last night, just moved to a new heavenly snorkel area: come in close and see our garden!
    • Wed 07 Dec
      • Chicken Island: good snorkelling, watching the climbers, beautiful longtails with prayer-flags.!
      • Ao Phra-Ae beach on Ko Lanta: storm prevented us from getting to beach.
    • Tue 06 Dec
      • Stunning Emerald (Morakot) Cave: a wonderful hong!
    • Mon 05 Dec
      • Ko Muk; east side for the night, explore the hong tomorrow
    • Sun 04 Dec
      • Beautiful bay hosting 5 yachts and 12 fishing boats, all escaping wind-storms.
      • Site of a failed attempt to salvage another yacht's anchor, for reward: not a career for us!
    • Fri 02 Dec
      • Telaga harbour again. Fuel, food and duty-free booze for Christmas!
  • Oct 2011
    • Mon 10 Oct
      • Ketoro holding tight to pontoon at Pu Rebak Marina till end November.
      • Telaga for RUGBY!!! Farewell to John, who has sailed Ketoro between Phuket and Singapore!
    • Sun 09 Oct
      • Fjord anchorage as beautiful as ever, but LOTS rain and wind... Dragging worries.
    • Thu 06 Oct
      • Georgetown, Penang for fun 2 nights YIPPEE!
    • Wed 05 Oct
      • Mainsail fell down!!! So had to anchor here at Pangkor to fix: 3h up mast in sun.
    • Tue 04 Oct
      • Port Klang: again time to watch for ships crossing our path and trying to predict their behaviour!
    • Mon 03 Oct
      • Port Dickson: had a swim in resort pool.... Heaven!!
      • On our way again....
  • Sep 2011
    • Tue 27 Sep
      • Berthed at Marina at dusk. Exceptionally exhausted, want to sleep for days...
      • Two massive ships collided alongside us here! How horrifying that they drive so badly...
      • Gales, horrible sea, crossed shipping channels in gale and rain, caught huge fishing net. Excruciating.
    • Mon 26 Sep
      • Great sailing 7kn under reef turned to @#* when gales hit on the nose: bare poles and 2kn...!
    • Sun 25 Sep
      • Sailing winds at last!! But who switched last night's orders for NO boats and lots of moonlight??
    • Sat 24 Sep
      • Much improved sea state, wind, current... ie going our way now and all well!
    • Fri 23 Sep
      • For us: dolphins, playing; sea snakes,slithering away; tuna biting lures. Against: sea, current and wind: UGH.
    • Fri 16 Sep
      • Got into Miri Marina just before the storm hit! Tied on and happy, for a 5 day stay and travel to Mulu
    • Thu 15 Sep
      • Last Brunei stop: Kuala Belait, industrial, serving the oil rigs, but pretty at night! Tiring 12h sail day.
    • Wed 14 Sep
      • Brunei, almost tiniest but richest country in world. Well, amazing Sultan's riches anyway....!
    • Sun 11 Sep
      • Pulau Tiga is our last stop in Sabah! Mooring ball off pretty island: fish from freezer on BBQ tonight.
    • Thu 08 Sep
      • KK Marina for water and power and hardware purchases and provisioning and dinghy fixing and maybe invertor too...!?
    • Wed 07 Sep
      • Happy to anchor after another 10 hour day on the move. Tomorrow KK Marina.
    • Tue 06 Sep
      • Last day in the Sulu Sea: tomorrow round the tip into the South China Sea.
      • Oh the calm of a lagoon surrounded by mangroves, and a sleep as if we were not on the sea...!
    • Sat 03 Sep
      • Lankayan island: great diving and turtle breeding programme, watched 200 run into the sea!
  • Aug 2011
    • Wed 31 Aug
      • Back at Sandakan... Really functional: provisioning and hoping for no more burglaries....
    • Tue 30 Aug
      • Dewhurst Bay: back in muddy Malaysian river, but watching monkeys on the beach makes up for it!
    • Sun 28 Aug
      • Dent Haven again, calm night after a LONG day sailing? We hope so....
      • Lahad Datu: busy harbour, fascinating shrimp farms being pushed into place by big dinghies. Drop off point for friends.
      • Fri: Pu Gaya - beautiful tall islands, treed, pristine water, pretty coral bommies under boat
      • Mon - thurs: re-anchored and firm. Exceptionally wonderful Sipadan diving WOW
      • Sunday: anchored on Mabul sand spit but terrible stormy night with dragging anchor....
      • Sat: Horn Reef - wonderful snorkelling, no visible land, our neighbour is a single stilted fishing hut!
    • Tue 16 Aug
      • Tawau: ugly from the sea, container port, last stop of the rally
    • Mon 15 Aug
      • Mabul Island, between converted oil rig and stilted chalets: weird!
    • Sun 14 Aug
      • Pulau Gaya: pretty, with PRISTINE water... Stay here for a day to clean the boat!
      • Pulau Gaya: pretty, with PRISTINE water... Stay here for a day to clean the boat!
    • Fri 12 Aug
      • Pretty place to sleep, massive currents pushing us down today!
      • Leaving this amazing river: sad, but happy to see end of mud!
    • Thu 11 Aug
      • Today saw wild Orang utans in jungle and sailed over a Pygmy elephant!
    • Tue 09 Aug
      • As far as we can go on Ketoro, due to power lines. Now some dinghy investigation...
      • Monday..in heaven with birds, monkeys, magnificent primary jungle, clean but muddy river.
      • Sun eve. Kinabatangan River: jungle one side, small village children waving the other...
      • Sun morn: on way to Sungai Kinabatangan.. river through the jungle...
    • Tue 02 Aug
      • Sandakan... Manic anchorage, boats of every type hurtling through..interesting times!
      • Beautiful island anchorage to rest after 24 hours of boat-fixing miseries.
      • Tigabu island: no fun as we find engine water pump and shower water pump died!
    • Mon 01 Aug
      • Morning drift snorkel between two islands, direction and speed dictated by strong current!
  • Jul 2011
    • Sat 30 Jul
      • Quiet anchorage for the night before island visits tomorrow...
      • Rounding the lovely northern tip of Borneo.... YAAAY!
    • Fri 29 Jul
      • Ambong Bay for a night. Sea very rolly outside... And lovely and calm in here!
    • Wed 20 Jul
      • Kota Kinabalu, Sabah... Now THIS looks like a good Marina! Going to check out the facilities...
      • Sailing in race to KK.... But NO wind teaches patience and sailing skills!
    • Wed 13 Jul
      • Miri marina: rally base and start for Borneo Yacht Challenge.
      • Night watch with luminous moon to round the cape on our way to Miri.
  • Jun 2011
    • Tue 28 Jun
      • Kuching Marina for a while: travel inland to Sibu and Kapit and World Rainforest Music Festival!
      • Between 2 stunning islands: walked on one: saw monkeys, pitcher plants; haircut on other!
    • Mon 27 Jun
      • En route... Rounding magnificent forested mountain falling steeply to the sea
    • Wed 22 Jun
      • Sludgy river, heavily forested, crocs, bright stars: we are in Borneo! Specifically Kuching in Sarawak state.
    • Sun 19 Jun
      • Beautiful island off Borneo to rest for 2 days before going Borneo itself.
      • Rounded the corner: wind gone, engines on, hope to make it before sundown!
    • Sat 18 Jun
      • Rocking, rolling on lumpy sea, side-on waves, wind on nose... tired... this is passage-making!
    • Fri 17 Jun
      • Horrible uncomfortable sea but sailing in good winds south of oil filelds
    • Wed 15 Jun
      • Terengganu for the last time before crossing S China Sea to Borneo
    • Mon 13 Jun
      • Moored P Redang again, returning to Terengganu... Last night at these lovely islands
      • Stunning Temple dive (Tokong Laut) myriads of fish, some huge, great coral.
      • Beautiful Perhentian Island bay, thickly wooded hillsides, after lovely dive at lighthouse site
    • Sun 12 Jun
      • Beautiful diving in the Parhentian Islands.... And also fun on land!
    • Fri 10 Jun
      • Anchored in lovely bay on P Redang, found a lovely-looking island to dive tomorrow YAY! Happily gazing into toilet bowls with clean sea water, not mud
    • Fri 03 Jun
      • Time to sleep! Berthed at Marina in Kuala Terengganu
      • Inauspicious River entry to Terengganu; a day to get food and organise sail repair then to island to meet others.
    • Thu 02 Jun
      • Sailing through night: black, but seeing S Cross behind and Big Dipper ahead... Going right way!
      • Sailing overnight heading for Kuala Terengganu, horribly hot and no wind to speak of!
    • Wed 01 Jun
      • Rompin for beach BBQ to touch base with rally group
      • 3 mile period: jib out, main up, storm hits, reef 1, dodge ferry straight at us, reef 2, main down, jib in: happy to anchor here.....
  • May 2011
    • Mon 30 May
      • Stunning! Tiny island with most of it underwater... Huge boulders shouldering coral gardens and home for millions of fish!
    • Sun 29 May
      • Pulau Tulai for snorkelling and hopefully a dive.. If we can find the appropriate place! Then there was the charter boat who took guests skiing in cir
    • Fri 27 May
      • Tioman south, going to walk to waterfall of movie South Pacific tomorrow
    • Fri 20 May
      • Tioman Island, a rallying point for all rally boats! Tall volcanic island, rainforest vegetation, lovely beaches
    • Thu 19 May
      • Pulau Babi Besar - absolutely stunning! The South China Sea, as it turns out, is awesome...!! Great company from other rally boats enhances the experi
    • Tue 17 May
      • Pulau Tinggi: back to beautiful islands, white sands, clear waters, fish and coral... YAY!
    • Sun 15 May
      • Teluk Punggai. Featureless stop over on way north. Good anchor holding!
      • (no subject)
    • Tue 10 May
      • One15 Marina, Singapore. A few days here before we re-join the rally at the Tioman Islands.
      • Passing Raffles lighthouse
      • Keeping Singapore on our left and Malaysia on our right and weaving our way through dozens of ships
  • Apr 2011
    • Sun 10 Apr
      • Puteri harbour, home for a month till we set off on the rally
      • Completed the busy Malacca Straits, crossed the Singapore channel, gratefully looking for our home
      • 10Apr early... The southernmost tip of Malaysia, and LOTS of giants anchored here.
      • 9Apr late... Rain, lightning, big guys on anchor and those challenging us....!
    • Tue 05 Apr
      • Marina at Port Dickson: time to SLEEP after overnighters alongside the hugest ships and traffic... and visit Melaka!
    • Mon 04 Apr
      • Wishing for wind, dodging fishing boats, grateful for the AIS info on all the big guys out here!
    • Sat 02 Apr
      • Georgetown Penang! Marina in old city: wonderful, noisy, vibey, much to see and do..
  • Mar 2011
    • Thu 31 Mar
      • Swimming in beautiful cool opaque sea off beach at Pregnant Maiden Island.... great start to our voyage south!
    • Wed 30 Mar
      • Telaga marina protects us from unusually big bad weather... and we wait for change before we sail...
    • Sun 27 Mar
      • last night in Thailand: horrible and very rolly! Bye Ko Lipe... we could not go on shore to visit you!
    • Fri 25 Mar
      • Rok Nok again: a trusty stop over for a good night's sleep
      • Thurs: Racha Island for a rough rocky night with little sleep...
      • Wed / thurs Ao Chalong: clearing out of Thailand for... the last time?
    • Tue 08 Mar
      • Go in close to see: no water here! Ketoro on the hardstand for work, we sleeping in apartment nearby.
      • Sunday evening off Ko Rang: calm, pretty place to wait for entering boat lagoon at high tide
    • Sat 05 Mar
      • First time this side of Racha Yai... time to check out the beach area...!
      • 4Mar This time a steep walk up Rok Nok to see the magnificent views from the top of the island
      • 3 Feb Looking onto the white beaches and heavily treed slopes of beautiful Ko Tarutao.
    • Thu 03 Mar
      • 2Mar Rebak Marina at last getting our new rudders!
      • 28 Feb Anchored off Telaga Harbour to clear customs and shop duty free...
      • Ko Ka Lang.. A quick stop over for a stunning dive off the boat! Such beautiful coral and fish on a pinnacle 28feb
      • 27Feb Great sailing to Ko Lipe, lovely beach with dozens of bars and wonderful relaxed atmosphere.
      • 26 Feb Ko Rok Nok a favourite stop-over for yachts doing the visa run...!
  • Feb 2011
    • Sat 19 Feb
      • 18 Feb Kata Beach again, enjoying the views, clear sea, easy access to all the land stuff.
      • 17 Feb Wonderful calm quiet Freedom Bay: on our own but for the fish and birds…
      • 15 Feb Patong Bay as busy as usual, now with the add ition of massive cruise-liners…
      • 14 Feb Valentine’s Day at Surin Beach.. very beaut iful, good massages, good food…!
      • 13 Feb Playing with young ellies Lucky and Lili on Ban Tao Beach!
      • 10 Feb Back in pretty Nai Yang to wave bye to Mark and hi to Ilana
    • Sun 06 Feb
      • Ko Similan island 5 is awesome with crystal water, great snorkelling and a turtle trying to eat the fin on Rolfs foot!
    • Fri 04 Feb
      • 4 Feb Similan Islands.... So beautiful, amazing water clarity, wonderful rest
      • 2 Feb Kata Beach... Great massages, nice beach, great meal.... pesky jet skis!
      • 1 Feb Ao Po Marina to fix batteries made dead by the service people....
      • 31Jan Ko Roi... A beautiful wonderful spot with a shrine in the hong
      • 30 Jan Showing Mark and Livi our favourite spots in the bay....
  • Jan 2011
    • Mon 03 Jan
      • Yacht Haven.. Home for the boat while we head off to Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, whee haa!
    • Sat 01 Jan
      • Last night on anchor before our trip to Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. A quiet evening... The first in 2 weeks!
      • Rounding Promthep Cape in strong gusts on way up to Yacht Haven again.
      • Happy New Year! What an amazing party start off Patong Beach: WOW WOW WOW!
• 2010
  • Dec 2010
    • Wed 29 Dec
      • Kamala Beach: hundreds of beach loungers, jet skis with no speed limits, huge gin palaces behind us!
    • Fri 24 Dec
      • Nai Yang... Home for Christmas: beaches, smoothies, yachtie friends, calm waters. And a turtle!
      • Freedom Bay: the only yacht here, lovely beach and fair snorkelling in the surge!
      • Kata Beach: beautiful sea and seafood lunch on shore, full moon and fire lanterns at night
      • Nai Harn Bay, beautiful first w-coast anchorage of the Christmas week: happiness!
      • Good ole rolly Ao Chalong, base until the NE season sets in (please...!)
    • Sat 11 Dec
      • Phi Phi.. great shelter for the weather but little protection from lunatic boat skippers!
      • Ko Rok Nok.. star of French Survivor.. and our haven in howling winds!
      • Discovered this anchorage off Ko Bulan North with no help from pilot guides.... beautiful!
    • Thu 09 Dec
      • Pulau Singha Besar overnighter. Have started collecting appropriate materials for our Christmas "tree"...
    • Wed 08 Dec
      • Come in closer and look at where we are! Towering cliffs on each side, incredibly densely greened with bushes, creepers, immensely tall trees, all cli
  • Nov 2010
    • Sun 28 Nov
      • Tied up at Telaga Harbour Marina for a week
      • 25 Nov Beautiful bay with wonderful snorkelling on Ko Butang
    • Thu 25 Nov
      • 24 Nov Stunning limestone cliffs towering over us at Ko Phetra
      • 23 Nov Ko Lanta.. great fun at Kan Tiang beach
      • 22 Nov Busy busy BUSY Ton Sai Bay at Phi Phi Don
      • 21 Nov Pretty Ko Roi again
    • Wed 24 Nov
      • 20 Nov Showing Sandy, Patrick, Ros a favourite secluded anchorage Ko Hong
      • 20 Nov Departing great berth at Yacht Haven Marina
  • Sep 2010
    • Sat 11 Sep
      • Yacht Haven: home for Ketoro while we go home to SA
  • Aug 2010
    • Sun 22 Aug
      • Ko Rang....beautiful island with marvellous long beach
      • Escorted by hundreds of little fish whilst snorkelling on reef at Ko Hae (Coral Island)... they all expect to be hand fed!
    • Wed 18 Aug
      • 18 Aug Stunning Ko Dam Khwan: Chicken island! Spectacular sunset behind the towering chicken head rock ... plan 2 days here.
      • 17 Aug Ko Muk... lovely bay with beach projecting from the cliffs; longtail central for fishermen so very noisy.
      • 16 Aug Anchored off Ko Tarutao... peaceful, beautiful, protected; home of sea eagles!
    • Fri 13 Aug
      • Rebak Marina at Pulau Langkawi: aircon, swimming pool, shady trees.... what's not to like!?
    • Tue 10 Aug
      • Malaysia again: Telaga Harbour Marina for a few days to explore Pulau Langkawi before returning to Thailand!
    • Mon 09 Aug
      • Lovely spot off a beach on Ko Laen, east of Ko Taratao; tomorrow clear in at Langkawi
    • Sun 08 Aug
      • Second time at Ko Rok Nok and just as lovely... but no beach supper and big winds! Glad of mooring buoy..
      • Overnight at Ko Racha Yai (Island King Big, literally) with lighted fishing boats making the horizon glow.
    • Mon 02 Aug
      • Yacht Haven Marina: potential spot to leave boat when fly out?
  • Jul 2010
    • Mon 19 Jul
      • Ao Po Grand Bay Marina: the luxury of being tied on and only a hop from the beautiful Phang Nga Bay islands
      • Ao Chalong.... "home" harbour for clearing in/out formalities
    • Thu 15 Jul
      • Another anchorage at Phi Phi Don: beautiful as before but less busy and less polluted... definitely the favoured spot!
    • Wed 14 Jul
      • Stopped over at Ko Ngai for two nights while the Kothes celebrate their 31st anniversary!
    • Tue 13 Jul
      • On the way back: stop-over at Ko Bulon Le with a walk in the village followed by enormous braai baracuda steaks!
    • Sat 10 Jul
      • We are in Malaysia! Berthed in Telaga Harbour on Pulau Langkawi (island) for a weekend of sight-seeing before returning to Thailand
    • Thu 08 Jul
      • Wednesday: rested over at Koh Lipe in the Butangs for two days, enjoying the island, water and stars.
      • Tuesday: Stopped over at The Beach (Maya Bay) then overnight stop at Koh Rok Nok, with a picnic supper on the sand at sunset.
      • Monday 5 July: Doing the tourist thing on Ko Phi Phi Don: enjoying the sights, shops, meal at a beach restaurant.
      • Monday 5 July: leaving Ao Chalong with John and Wendy on way to Malaysia via the scenic route!
      • Wed 30: On way back to Ao Chalong after burglary; anchored off Ko Rang Yai
    • Thu 01 Jul
      • Ko Hong: anchored here in paradise yesterday, with limestone cliffs soaring above us and fascinating explorations of a beautiful lagoon on the dinghy.
  • Jun 2010
    • Sat 12 Jun
      • Luxury!! Absolute luxury!! Tied up at a marina; shore power and water (wow!); chance to get onto land and explore.... and do lots of boat jobs!
    • Thu 10 Jun
      • In Tahiland at last!!! Anchored in Ao Chalong on Phuket island to do formal clearing in procedures. We made it!!!
    • Tue 08 Jun
      • Almost through the heaviest ship traffic in the Malacca Straights. Now to Thailand....
      • Departed the beautiful anchorage at Pulau WE, Sumatra after 2 wonderful nights sleep! On way again....
    • Sat 05 Jun
      • When the mountain comes under you and creates a great hole before you, the best thing to do is focus on sailing by your instruments and ignore your ho
    • Fri 04 Jun
      • After 24 hours of horrible stormy seas, are now happy to have that behind us and be 200 miles from Sumatra.
    • Thu 03 Jun
      • Pleasant winds gave way to gales, which are carrying us with them... luckily they are also going to Thailand! All well on board.
    • Tue 01 Jun
      • Well, here we are! Middle of the sea and so forth...! Really lovely winds.... although they pushed us too far south and we had to get back up there ag
  • May 2010
    • Sun 30 May
      • South of Sri Lanka on a beautiful sea running under the asymmetric spinnaker; no fish (beans yeah!) but beautiful dolphins....
    • Fri 28 May
      • In the middle of nowhere, with good winds: all sail, no motors required!
    • Wed 26 May
      • Last night in Hulhumale lagoon... leave tomorrow for Thailand!
    • Sun 23 May
      • Our last fun anchorage (Velassaru resort island) before returning to Male and then departing for Thailand
    • Sun 02 May
      • Protected coral garden millpond at Gaafaru Atoll... echoes of Bassas da India
      • Amazing 32nd anniversary dinner on the beach with the Candys at Helengeli Island
    • Sat 01 May
      • There are 2 kinds of skipper: those who have grounded and those who have not yet grounded. This is where we joined the aforementioned club.
  • Apr 2010
    • Wed 28 Apr
      • Kept waiting a week here at Hulhumale for cruising permit. Now have permit... will cruise!
    • Mon 19 Apr
      • Extremely isolated, anchored on Felidhe Atoll; no islands, only reefs and turquoise seas
    • Sat 17 Apr
      • Anchored in a reef-enclosed lagoon in Mulaka Atoll: stunning! Alone and private... yet near 2 stilted resorts!
    • Wed 14 Apr
      • Anchored in North Huvadhoo Atoll, a beautiful calm haven after 2 windy tiring days!
    • Tue 13 Apr
      • The Equator at 0630: crossed the stormy, cold line with booze, chocolates and an apple upside-down cake! Shared with King Neptune...
    • Fri 02 Apr
      • Gan, Addu Atoll, Maldives; welcomed by a big pod of dolphins!
  • Mar 2010
    • Tue 30 Mar
      • On the road again: good sea, no wind.... clouds building though...
    • Sat 27 Mar
      • A full gale brought us here but today spent forgetting as we swam with 30 dolphins!
    • Sat 20 Mar
      • Surrounded by sharks but not like those in your big cities..
    • Fri 12 Mar
      • Ile Diamant, Chagos and really being slothful and chilling, but catching nothing but shark from the boat!
  • Feb 2010
    • Fri 26 Feb
      • Anchored in heaven at Ile du Coin, Peros Banhos, Chagos Archipelago... these islands will be home for a few weeks
      • We are almost there! See land... with 10nm to go....
    • Wed 24 Feb
      • Half-way point, a long way from land: 545nm to seychelles, 545nm to Chagos, 3800m to the sea-bed!
    • Mon 22 Feb
      • Fantastic sailing conditions: good winds, favourable current... heaven! Supported by whales, dolphins, a mile-long shoal of tuna and attendant hundred
    • Fri 12 Feb
      • Seychelles haven last weeks.. resting before the big sail...
  • Jan 2010
    • Sat 23 Jan
      • Port Launay winds and seas really testing our anchor: which comes up tops!
      • Laria Bay, Curieuse.. Seychelles home but with marauding butterfly fish!
    • Sat 16 Jan
      • Pretty Felicite island, amongst the many we have explored
• 2009
  • Dec 2009
    • Thu 17 Dec
      • La Digue... beautiful, tiny, quaint charm... expensive!
    • Wed 16 Dec
      • 3 days on Praslin Island.. finding anchorages with the best land view!
    • Mon 07 Dec
      • Home for now: Seychelles Yacht Club Dec 7
      • We made it! Dec 6 Anchored in Victoria Harbour to await official clearance,tomorrow.
      • Headed east to avoid piracy in SW, now turning north Dec 5
      • Farquhar group Dec 2, red-foot booby hitched a ride till dawn!
      • Last night in Madagascar Nov 30
      • Started on passage to Seychelles with some anxiety over weather and pirates... Nov 29
  • Nov 2009
    • Sun 15 Nov
      • Still night in protected anchorage... like a bus station with 8 other boats here!
    • Sat 14 Nov
      • Beautiful Tara Bajina and snorkelling off the boat
    • Fri 13 Nov
      • Nosy Fali An anchorage to hide from the predicted W wind that was awful in the ferocious suprise storm from the East
      • Nosy Komba: beautiful island where soft, gentle Lemurs jump lightly onto your shoulder for bananas
    • Mon 09 Nov
      • Lokobe Nature Reserve towering lush green
      • Beautiful tiny marine reserve for two days
    • Sun 01 Nov
      • Russian Bay.. beautiul, wild, remote, good storm hideout if necessary
  • Oct 2009
    • Thu 29 Oct
      • Anchored at Sakatia island off Nosy Be; formally cleared into the country and ready to cruise
    • Tue 27 Oct
      • Anchored at Sakatia island off Nosy Be... meal on shore tonight YAY!!!
      • Anchored at Sakatia island off Nosy Be... meal on shore tonight YAY!!!
      • Tranquil river anchorage to hand over goods transported for others....
    • Sun 25 Oct
      • Wonderful Nosy Iranje anchorage... our first Madagascar island!
    • Sat 24 Oct
      • From becalmed to hectic to becalmed, but one constant is the curent against us....
    • Fri 23 Oct
      • Hot hot hot ... still still still day....!
    • Thu 22 Oct
      • Rocking and rolling up and down....!
      • Hello! How are you? Thanks for popping in to visit us! Heading straight on to Nosy Be.
    • Wed 21 Oct
      • Still at sea.... Juan de Nova ahead in case we need to stop for weather.
    • Tue 20 Oct
      • Night sailed with a dozen storms around us, racing us up to NW Madagascar
    • Sun 18 Oct
      • Anchored at Bassas da India: absolutely astounding atoll, reef fish hiding in our shade
    • Sat 17 Oct
      • Swam in ultra blue ocean, enjoyed fish braai, watched feeding frenzy of birds, sharks take place around and UNDER us!
      • Heaven: night sailing with sky awash with stars and sea with phosphorescence, favourable wind and current.
    • Fri 16 Oct
      • Frustrated: pitiful wind and big current south
    • Thu 15 Oct
      • Wahoo! First fish for supper... and another one..
      • Inhambane harbour
    • Mon 12 Oct
      • Waiting. Anchored off pretty Linge Linge near Inhambane... public hol in Moz
    • Sat 10 Oct
      • Anchoring in rolling sea at Inhambane Bay, Mozambique
      • Massive melodious whale foghorns over the ocean.
    • Fri 09 Oct
      • Swimming in the channel
      • Prolific marine life and spectacular whale sightings in amazing Mozambican waters
    • Thu 08 Oct
      • Learning curve with Code Zero, obliging ship's captain's avoiding action, 4 whales, 100 dolphins
    • Wed 07 Oct
      • I'm being folllowed by a moonshadow
      • Bumping along with whales and Yacht Time Out to port
      • Second time from RB, now with Yacht Time Out
    • Tue 06 Oct
      • Second round in R Bay
    • Sun 04 Oct
      • engine trouble turning back all fine
      • Pos
      • Departure
      • Leaving now
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  • Aug 2009
    • Tue 04 Aug
      • Ketoro position
  • Jun 2009
    • Tue 23 Jun
      • web diary
    • Mon 01 Jun
      • Planning for a different world