Tonga to Fiji

Ariel
Sat 19 Aug 2006 07:25
Hi Chris,Sarah,Evan,Dean,Jo,Vj,Gran and Pa and All.
We headed off to Fiji in a light breeze which kept the boat moving quite
well and over the next few days it seemed to keep getting a little stronger
to the point four days latter we had to take the mainsail down and finish
off the last part of the journey at night heading down the coast of Vatu
Levu on the west side, with only 50% of the genoa flying,as the wind was now
approaching 30 knots.The main concern though was navigating between the
small islands and reefs that surround the main island.

The trip from Tonga was thankfully uneventful,as I had some concern about
passing a number of the outlying islands of the Fiji group (Eastern
Archipeligo,)particularly at night and of course as luck would have it,at
night is precisely when we encountered our first islands.I spent many hours
wondering if we had negotiated a passage right through the middle or we
would come across a light house dead ahead.Anyway,we didn't see a light from
either island, so I suppose we were somewhere in the middle.This was a
challenge and a relief to be out of the way and gives you a little more
confidence that the tools we are using (GPS,Plotter and charts) are
combining to make a safe passage.

The rest of the passage to Fiji was fast and uneventful apart from our fifth
fish we caught.We have photographic evidence of this one, as it was a sight
to behold.The battle to bring him on board took about 45 minutes with all
three of us taking turns on the rod that looked as if it would break at any
moment.My first instinct was to cut the line as with our past experiences
with large fish they just simply took the lure sinker and anything else that
was in their way.But after about 10 minutes I thought we had a fighting
chance of getting this one.He fought us all the way and probably deserved a
better audience than 3 amateurs that didn't have a clue what they were
doing.Suffice to say he was very big-better than a metre and probably
weighed more than 25 kilos.(When I get home he will have grown no
doubt.Mainly due to the fact he slowed the boat so much whilst we were
trying to pull him in!)

The last day heading towards the Port of Lautoka the wind continually
strengthened and we made extremely good time until the point came at night
where as I said earlier we had to shorten sail for a more restful and
controlled night.We arrived off the entrance to Nadi waters at 5.45am and
had to wait until light before proceding in between the reefs.As always a
great deal of concerntration was required but all went smoothly and we were
very pleased to be in the sheltered waters behind the reef and heading
towards Lautoka to go through the usual procedures of customs, immigration
and also quaratine in this instance.From the entance of Nadi Waters to
Lautoka is the best part of 30 nm.By the time we arrived at customs and
anchored in the harbour at 12.30pm they were heading to lunch at 1 pm until
2pm.So we had a short wait.We needed also to change money for local currency
and quickly sought out a restaurant that had
fresh (non-tinned) food-the choice being Indian.Well after seeking advice
from locals about the best Indian restaurant in Lautoka we settled on a fast
food/restaurant at the far end of the CBD.Well all I can say,compared to
ship food it was marginal.My mutton curry had so much salt in it I have been
suffering hypertension ever since and needed two ice creams and two drinks
to wash the salt off my parched tongue.The Indian population has obviously
lost touch with the skills of their predecessors,as they sure can't put a
decent curry dish together.(This was backed up by an only reasonable curry
mains at a five star resort/restaurant 6 days later.The entrees though were
excellent.)
Next day Friday 28/7,we went back into town again and re-stocked our depleted
supplies and in the afternoon headed off to Denarau Island marina.This took
us the best part of four hours as we were heading directly into a strong
breeze that had also kicked up a signifcant swell.
We arrived at the Marina at about 4.30pm and as we were looking for an
anchorage we heard this primitive scream from the dock.My brother Frank said
to me "are you expecting any friends,as I think they were calling for
you."There was only one person I could think of who's voice could carry
above that wind over that distance-KK (Karen Kyriacou.)Refined and
cultivated over many years of challenging children.Karen was of course
accompanied by the ever retiring Andrew (I wonder why retiring?)as soon as
we were anchored I was in the dinghy and off to the dock to greet them then
bring the out to the boat.It was a great delight to see good friends from
home after 5 months away.This was of course only surpassed with Chris
arriving at 7.30 pm that night,so we all had a very enjoyable dinner
together.

We spent 11 days in Fiji.Two days were spent sailing out to some of the
small islands,which were picture perfect of those that you see in tourist
brochures and Andrew demonstrating how to catch 4 fish in two days as
opposed to our 4 fish in 4 months.Well the lesson was absorbed as we have
caught 6 in three days of fishing!One small one we through back and one
thing that looked more like an eel than a fish we also through back.

The last couple of days were spent at Muskett Cove,about 12nm from Denarau
Isl.This again was a picture perfect paradise,evidenced by the 50 to 60
yachts already there when we arrived.But since most seem to spend a great
deal of their time on their boats (probably doing repairs), the beaches,bar
and marina were surprisingly quite.The 11 days went particularly fast and it
wasn't long before we were off heading towards Noumea.
love bern