Milos Sunday 1st May
Spellbinder
Sun 1 May 2011 06:57
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The wind had eased enough by Monday for us to set
off on our next leg to Astypalia, although neighbouring boats were saying it was
too windy for heading west. We hoisted sail just outside the harbour, with one
reef in the main, just to be seen, and off we went. A force 4 gave us good
progress, and Henry set to on getting the water
maker going again after its winter shut down. It all burst into life with no
problems. A rising wind persuaded us to put some rolls in the genoa, and we
forged along on a close reach in force 4 or 5, occasionally gusting 6, with a
bit of a sea but still we were logging between 7 and 8 knots, a fast and
exciting sail. Things smoothed down once we got under the lee of Astypalia, and
we made our way into a recently extended harbour at the main town of Skala.No
other yachts in the harbour, so we picked ourselves a sheltered alongside berth.
A little later a Benteau 52 arrived from Nisyros, crewed by husband, reluctant
sailing wife and two small daughters, followed by an Australian yacht. Being
April 25th, the next event was tea and very fine birthday cake for Martin
to blow out all the candles We stepped ashore to climb up the hill to
an extensive 13th century Venetian castle, all very picturesque. Back
onboard for Greek champagne ( very good ) and then we followed a local
recommendation to a taverna where the crew treated Martin to a very tasty
supper.
Given the weather trends we decided to keep north,
and rather than heading for Santorini, we set off under engine towards Ios,
motoring in very light winds, and using the engine running to make lots of
water, good day for Henry. Just as we finished a fine lunch around the
cockpit table the wind sprang up. Up sails and we ere soon doing 7 or 8 knots in
fresh north easterly breeze. Around the southern tip of Ios, and blasted up
the west coast until it was time to drop the sails off Mylopotomas bay, and
motor in to anchor. Still plenty of wind gusting down the hills, but the anchor
held, so we enjoyed sundowners and supper onboard, before a rather noisy
night.
The next morning started cool, cloudy, rainy and
windy. Much debate on how best to re-unite Ros with husband Charles, in
Santorini, and whether to wait another day before risking Ros and her suitcase
in the dinghy to the shore. Things calmed down after breakfast, and a succesful
landing was made so that Henry and Ros could take the bus over to the ferry port
at Yialos, and Ros caught a direct ferry to Santorini. Henry back onboard for
lunch, and the we all went ashore in the afternoon to take the bus over to
Yialos, and walk up around the picturesque Hora, before buying bread from a very
chatty baker. Ios is non stop party central in the season, and he told us he
kept his bakery shop open 24 hours a day to catch the revellers.Fortunately all
very off season and sedate for our visit. Back onboard for supper.
Thursday morning saw us underway by 8am, heading
for Sifnos, and we were soon sailing in northerly force 4 on another
cloudy and cool morning. A frshening breeze had
us putting in a reef and some rolls in the genoa by 9.30, but with the wind
going round into the north east we made fine progress, covering 33 miles in
4 1/2 hours, speedy stuff for Spellbinder. As we approached Sifnos we ran
into a squally rain shower, with gusts to force 6, and a few minutes
of torrential rain which reduced visibility to a couple of hundred metres. Round
the south of the island, and into a very sheltered bay, with a small fishing
village of Vathy. Cold enough to merit soup for lunch, plus a little warming red
wine before a siesta. Ashore in the dinghy to walk round the little village,
now with an upmarket hotel just along the beach. A glass of ouzo in a beach
front bar, where the ladies were all getting excited about the impending Royal
wedding, before returnoing onboard for supper and continuing ferocious
Chase the Lady.
Fridays plan was to take the bus to the old
villages in the centre of the island for a walk, and look for a taverna with a
tv. A helpful tourist office in Apollonia pointed us off on an old donkey trail
to the ancient settlement of Kastro, to work up an appetite for lunch. We missed
one of the signs, and had an excursion up a track with lovely wild flowers which
eventually turned into a dead end. Back towards Artemonas, our lunch
destination, spotting the missed turning on our way back. There we found a
quaint taverna, no tv but very good local cooking, so we toasted the happy
couple in Retsina. Back on the 4 pm bus, and tempted by the first real hint of
warmth went in for a swim for Martin to christen his new shorts. Very
brief, the swim, not the shorts.
Saturday dawned clear and sunny, but with virtually
no wind. Got going at 8.30, with breakfast underway as we motored over the 22
miles to Milos, and secured stern to the quay in the main port of Adhamas. Warm
and sunny, at last! Our next obstacle is a 66 mile passage to Monemvasia in the
south of the Peloponese, so after lunch we sought out an internet cafe for
weather forecasts to help us make our plans. Tuesday looks the best of a rather
unsettled outlook, giving us 2 days for the many delights on offer in
Milos. Supper ashore in a taverna across the quay, and then a rather disturbed
night with noise from ashore, and a lot of wavelets slapping on the hull.
Sunday, being May day, means a total shut down here, so we planned a walk up to
the old town and the ruins of ancient Melos, with maybe a chance to find the
missing arms of Venus. However the wind came up after breakfast, blowing us onto
the quay, and the anchor started to drag, so an emergency departure ensued,
fortunately no harm done. We are now at anchor, much more comfortable, and
having a quiet day. Aim to take the dinghy in tomorrow, and explore some of the
sights, before an early departure on Tuesday
Photos to follow when wi fi next
available.
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