Miscellaneous mid-Atlantic
ramblings
By
Two ancient mariners
The scene:
Crossing the Atlantic
Ocean with the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) Nov/Dec
2008
The cast:
‘Papillon’ A 60ft luxury catamaran – A Fontain-Pagot ‘Eleuthera’ class – aka
‘The Plastic Fantastic’
Her crew:
·
Lawrence – skipper of
Papillon
·
Lexie – his
wife
·
John – friend of Lawrence
·
Jean – John’s
wife
·
Chris – Lexie’s
son
·
Mary – Chris’s
wife
‘Snow Leopard’
A fast (but not so luxurious) 46ft cruising cat – A
Freydis 46 class – aka ‘Razor Blades’
Her
crew:
- James – skipper of Snow Leopard
- Lucy – James’ partner and owner of Snow
Leopard
- Bill – friend of the above; manages a chandlery
- Martin – another friend; a meteorologist
- Keith – another friend; car salesman
(!)
The
following is a daily e-mail conversation between the two boats as they crossed
the Atlantic. A small wager and a lot of
bragging had taken place prior to departure in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria.
The
ARC is a race/rally for about 225 boats that departs from Gran Canaria to
St.
Lucia. With normal weather these two boats
would expect to cross in about 14 days.
Shortly after the start Snow Leopard overtook Papillon. The first e-mail
below is 4 days into the race (previously we had communicated by
radio)
From: "papillon"
To: "Snow Leopard"
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 10:48
AM
Subject: Look over your shoulder
Hey
U guys
We see a trail of tea bags so U must be just up ahead. Decided
to plot you last night hmmm change our strategy. Seems like my first route
behind the Cape
Verde Islands would have been good. Good
news our boat is getting lighter as we toss over the wine bottles and beer cans.
Alos we jammed wooden blocks under propds that have been whirring around ata
fierce RPM robbing us of about twoknots...yes thats why you got by...
Oh have
to go another Dorado on the line..its sushi for lunch.
Cheers
L and
crew
From:
Snow Leopard
To:
papillon
Sent:
Thursday, November 27, 2008 1:08 PM
Subject:
Re: Look over your shoulder
Hi
Butterflies,
We
went south to get warm and glad we did. Now finally heading directly for
St
Lucia, having covered 240m miles in tthe last
24 hours! Reason for the speed is that Keith is now drinking us out of tea and a
marine monster ate our fishing line, so need to get there soonest. Also crew
getting carried away with spinnaker trimming. I think we have given them too
much red meat (oh, sorry I've just remembered that half of you are veggies
- that's why you need electric winches).
Sorry
to see you going so slowly. When fixing your props did you find the ropes on the
shafts?
Weather
loks pretty messy for all of us so looking forward to lazing in a
Caribbean anchorage with a large rum and
tonic.
See
you guys there
The
Snow Leopard team
From: "papillon"
To: "James & Lucy Stewart"
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 9:07
PM
Subject: Tea Bags
Hello Pussies
Congratsd 240 Nm in 24 hours, so how come you are only
75 Nm ahead of us...good to hear you made up time after drifting the last 24
...amazing when one gets the wind first. Your last 24 hours was dismal according
to ARC stats ...our condolences. Yes good idea head West ASAP........
thats the track to St
Lucia. So how are the tea bags and Ginger snaps
holding out?? Did I just see an instant noodle dinner package go drifting
by? OK have to go...selection of cheeses and Ports are being served on the
back 40!
Tot tah for now.
L
From:
Snow Leopard
To:
papillon
Sent:
Friday, November 28, 2008 11:01 AM
Subject:
Re: Tea Bags
Ginger
NUTS,
not
snaps! How many times do we have to explain it to you guys.
What's
it like sailing so far north? I guess you miss home in Canada? I see
you are now heading for the middle of a depression. Oh, these warm trade winds
suck, but at least they blow you in the right direction without any pain.
Lucy
has just admitted to eating a pot noodle in the middle of the night a couple of
days ago, but it could not have been that you saw, as it would have
bio-degraded by the time it got back to you.
Keep
trying
Leopard
crew ( we've dropped the 'snow' prefix in defference to your current climactic
position)
From: "papillon"
To: "James & Lucy Stewart"
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: Ginger Nuts
I was asked to
explain to Fountaine Pajot why were lagging behind the razor blades....all I
could admit to was too much wine and beer on board together with racks of lamb
and beef. Also stopping Papillon to reel in the fish.
So they have asked us
to get moving....I said no worries razor blades will be waiting for us around 43
West.
Talk soon.
Cheers
Papillon
From:
Snow Leopard
To:
papillon
Sent:
Saturday, November 29, 2008 9:53 AM
Subject:
Re: Ginger Nuts
Hi
Tell
me when do caterpillars turn into butterflies?
Did
Fontaine Pagot suggest removing the conservatory?
Razor
Blades have been conserving fuel for moments such as 43W, also engineering
genius Keith has rigged up the two ships bikes to the engine alternators so
batteries can now be charged by Martin and Bill trying to outdo each other in
the testosterone stakes. Have you tried that with Chris and John. They must have
some uses whilst sitting in the middle if the ocean. Or are they discussing
tactics? If so I suggest change in afterguard to Mary and Lexie for
better results.
We
had a flying fish land on top of bimini yesterday. I don't suppose you are far
enough south yet to see them.
Are
you still with other boats?. It's now a bit lonely out here having seen nothing
for the last couple of days.
We
look forward every morning to you little notes - keep them coming
Cheers
The
Sea Lions
From: "papillon"
To: "James & Lucy Stewart"
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 9:05
PM
Subject: 145 Nm Day traveled Tsk Tsk
So have you
taken to the cruising life?? The boys perhaps are a little undernurished
with tea and ginger snaps?? Nuts sorry!
Check out this!!
Papillon
Menu de Jour at 1900 UTC
Happy Hour beer ane wine and
nibblies
Special Rums
Mosse Bouche..... Chilled Grapes Stuffed
with Tuna Mousse (caught yesterday!)
Avacoado and Tomatoer Salad with
Lemon Herb Dressing
Chicken Casserole OR Fish of the Day (Fresh Caught)
C/W white and red wine)
Chocolate to finish
Special
Coffee
Scotch
Strong tea was brewed later to remove carbon build
up off Barbe que
Cheers
Yetti Fraternity....
From:
Snow Leopard
To:
papillon
Sent:
Sunday, November 30, 2008 11:09 AM
Subject:
Re: 145 Nm Day traveled Tsk Tsk
Hi
Big Feet,
Reason
for lack of miles was the delay to put down pots for fresh lobster! OK now -
restocked. Had to cook them inside as going too fast for barbeque. Another
sea monster ate another of our lures.
Now
speeding up again. I did however note that although you did a few more miles
than us we actually increased our lead over you. Tactics is
everything.
I
see you have finally decided to join the migration south. It wouldn't be to do
with the low pressure area in your way?
Crew
(Lucy excepted) more interested in rum punch served by pretty St. Lucian girls,
so your menu is no temptation (anyway I'm not showing it to them). Is the whisky
15 year old Bush Mills?
When
you catch up with us at 43W will you require some more fuel, as we have plenty
left?
When
we get to St.
Lucia we'll explain the different meaning of
fannies and pussies to you in English as opposed to American! Oh, you're
Canadian, so I am now really confused as to which meaning you were
implying!.
Regards
The
Snarks
From: "papillon"
To: "James & Lucy Stewart"
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 8:57 PM
Subject: On Track
Well Razor Blades
Seems we are right on your stern. Just passed over
your last reported position. You must be slowing down soon as you will run out
of fuel....yes James...the iron sail will only work for so long...so with that
in mind we'll just sail along and wait till we see this forlorne group up front
praying for the wind Gods.
Tonights Menu
Greek Salad
Catch of the
day... Dorado Grilled
OR
Chicken Caserole with Water Chestnuts
Wine
selection...Whites or Reds from the Grreek Cellars (Bilge)
Cheese and
Chocolatess and Port to Finsh
Photo sessions on foredeck...during
sunset.
Yes guys I can just see you...sailing gloves, harneses, HH wet
gear, sleep deprived, constipated, sunburned, tea tongue blisters and
gingere Nutted out. Don't forget...Scurvey.
We just put our 6th flat of
beer (24 tins) in the cooler. 18 flats to go so we are
concerned.
Oh yes....15 Year Old Bushmills hmmmm how
about 20 year olde GLENMORANGIE...a little more befitting a Fountaine Pajot
Eleuthera. Well must to PM shower...been a long time since AM shower...6
hours...mmmm hot water...then a Scotch on foredeck...with ICE...thats that clear
cold stuff, recall Las Palmas in a bar???.
Ta Taah for now....is that
hows its spelled???
Cheers
Yetti Fraternity (figured
out that one yet?)
From: "Snow Leopard"
To: "papillon"
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: On our Track
Ø
Hi
Yetis (note spelling) We suspect it's got something to do with the lair
>
of the Snow Leopard. Don't you call Yeti " Big Foot" in Canada?
How
> appropriate
> Glad to see you are following our route.
Imitation is the sincerest form of
> flattery. If you had only told us
that you were following we would have left
> one of our lobster pots for
you.
> Glad to know that you are showering regularly. Down south the
weather is so
> warm we don't need or want hot water.
> Martin has
organised a daily exercise routine so we are all getting super
> fit and
healthy - just the opposite of the apparently slovenly,
> over-indulgent
life-style on Papillon. But I suppose that is also an apt
> comparison
between a lithe Freydis and a Fontain -Pagot Elusivwhatever.
>
>
Daily menus sound great - Can't wait to be invited for dinner. If you
e-mail
> through the ingredients we will buy them in Castries and have them
ready for
> your arrival.
>
> Keep struggling on
> The
Bojums (literary connection)
>
From: "papillon"
To: "James & Lucy Stewart"
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 9:18 PM
Subject: Slow day?
Hey Razor Blades
Hmm slow day...you must be concerned about burning
diesel...... a lousy 159 Nm??? this is where the real sailing is
about to take place. Must admit we finally found the combination...a 12M
Dame Pattie reaching spin......7.5 knots in 11knots true wind......carrying all
this booze and good food...suggest you re visit criteria of ultimate multi hull
design. Limited out on fish today...froze some for your St Lucia
experience!!
Good on you to "twig"onto Yetii ...we will debate spelling of
Yetis! For the record the Big Foot is called a "Sasquatch" in British Columbia.
Canada ....slang for razor blade
crusher!!!
Today was MOB drill so for 2 hours we excercised in the
ocean!!...no need for the on board stuff.
Seriously at 21:12, Dec 1st... do
you have any wind??? (16 31 N and 32 27 W) Nothing here.
Midnite swimming???
Cheers
The
Monarchs
From: "Snow Leopard"
To: "papillon"
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: Slow Day
Ø
Hi
Monachs (still struggling with that one)
>
> Our reply delayed by
the catching of our first fish (only time we have been
> travelling slow
enough to do so!). As sea monsters have already devoured
> three lures and
two lines we have reverted to string with a trace on the
> end. I did not
think it would work, but my thoughts were PREMATURE as it
> still
attracted a nice yahoo. It made haulung in interesting but as long as
> we
kept OVER THE LINE things were ok. Much excitement on board as there are
>
no fishermen amongst us (we don't have too many backwoodsmen in London).
> Any good
recipes?. Lucy would like some advice. She has made an EARLY START
> on
preparation
>
> Have to admit to reverting to one of our little
40hp engines throughout the
> night, but sailing again this morning in
very light breezes ( 8.5 in 11
> true). Still at least for the first time
this trip we are actually pointing
> the boat in the right direction and
ON COURSE SIDE (OCS) for a change!
>
> Life on board is very
relaxed. Unfortunately no swimming (but suggestion to
> practice
waterskiing) as Razor Blades will JUMP THE GUN and slice off at
> speed at
the meerest hint of wind. We have been looking at the boats that
>
surround you. I'm surpised you want to associate with the likes of Bavarias and
Halberg
> Rasseys. Up here we are chatting with the racing boys. We will
introduce you
> when you arrive - they might have some tips on ensuring
you don't START
> EARLY.
>
> We are looking forward to fresh
fish after a week of freeze-dried rations.
>
> Keep plugging
on
> Regards
> Wilkinson and
Gillette.
>
From: "papillon"
To: "James & Lucy Stewart"
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Slower day.
Yes we are amid some tankers, we watch them motor by at night. Can't do
much with 2.5 knots of breeze, although we have a 3/4 oz up and making 1 1/2
knots at present. Think we should have been 100Nm further South.
Fish
tip...just gut him well and clean, leave head and tail on iff small or cut off
to fit in oven. Stuff cavitiy with lemons and oninons and put in oven...back
bone will peel out when cooked...keeps flesh moist...but you should know all
this James.
Overcast, some rain, no wind. OK back to matinee movie.....Master
and Commander, ...tracking the fast French Boat type of viewing....great ending
tho.....
Ta ta for now
The Monarchs...still trying to figure
Bojums...perhaps Jam Butties...ie. your daily diet???
From: "papillon"
To: "James & Lucy Stewart"
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 8:15 PM
Subject: Fish Recipe #1
Dear Razor Burn,
We are so happy to hear that you have caught your
first fish and because you are special we are going to share our very
special royal recipe.
Recipe as follows:
1. Fiirst
remove the eyeballs from sockets and preserve in a mixture of balsamic vinegar
with a hint of rosemary. Next, marinate full fish inclusive of head and
tail. When marinating the fish, make sure to use some twine or
fishing lure if you still have any left, and tie the head and tail together so
that the flavors will infuse throughout the whole body. Marinate for 2-4
hours depending on size of fish. In your case 2, we know it will be
small.
2. Wrap in seaweed to preserve moistrue but if seaweed
is not available a pair of small men's briefs (which we are sure you have
aboard) tend to do the job just as well and may even add a bit more
flavor. Hang from any available halyard until ready to
cook.
3. During this time, prepare the eyes by massaging the irises
with garlic and butter. Everything tastes good with garlic and
butter!
4. Remove infused fish from halyard. Make a small
incision in the belly of the fish and using a straw suck out the tripe of the
fish. Reserve tripe in small bowl.
5. Roll whole fish
in peanut butter and then press into crushed ginger snaps (make that ginger
knutts).
6. Add the tripe to the marinating eyeballs and
simmer over low heat until reduced to a silvery
glaze.
7. Bake fish in oven at 350F for 59minutes and 13
seconds (this is critical!). Remove at once!
8. Remove
the briefs and keep for stock for tomorrow's soup.
9. Place
fish on platter and garnish with freeze dried vegetables (in our case it is
fresh) and pour glaze over dish.
10. Serve with chilled
Martiville Rueda Verdejo wine.
BON APPETITE!
The First
Ladies of the Monarchs
END OF PART 1