18:26.45N 64:45.90W Whales off the Port Beam

Yes, it’s
Monday morning and we are sailing hard on the wind under full sail, occasionally
dumping the kicker as the gusts heel us over at an uncomfortable angle –
wouldn’t want to spill the coffee after all! We are leaving Manchineel
Bay, home of the Cooper Island Resort bound for the island of Virgin Gorda,
home of the Bitter End Resort – oh life’s a beach! Suddenly,
off the port beam a massive tail rises from the waves and splashes down.
Big grey plumes of spray blow high in the air, signaling the presence of a
whale. No, not one but two small whales, possible a mother and baby splashing
playfully in water. We watch mesmerized for several minutes as the pair
give us a demonstration of strength and power as they leap head first and then
tail first right out of the water – Wow! Nigel has seen whales at a
distance before but always dreamed of a close up and here at last his dream
came true. 1530 and we are tied
up off The Bitter End, where we venture ashore to re-familiarise ourselves with
the resort facilities. Trevor reserves his usual table for the evening.
A New York Strip steak awaits him. Nigel, exhausted from the emotion of
sighting the whales, collapses on his bed and into a deep sleep. Apart
from a nightcap in the pub with Marcus he remains there till dawn. Tuesday we planned to
go to the Dogs – a group of rocks promising great reef snorkeling and
then on to the Baths, another rock formation, this one offering a series of
cave like passages to be explored. The wind direction and strength
spoiled these however and we sailed on by, anchored in a safe haven for a
rather extensive buffet lunch and eventually ventured on to the spot voted as
the “top spot” by crew and guests alike – Marina Cay and
another dose of Michael Bean’s Pirate musical act – arrr! We
flew the big red cruising chute downwind for a couple of hours to the delight
of all. Crossing the Atlantic this sail had been renamed the “Red
Table Cloth” by Mike, our racer on board – very rude if you ask
me! But I did have to admit gracefully that the Big Blue Beast, our full
spinnaker was a much faster down wind option! Wednesday and after
another night of childish Pirate humour we head for Jost Van Dyke island again,
beginning to think about leaving the idyllic BVI’s and simply wanting to
revisit favourite spots before the challenging overnight passage south later in
the week. May the wind be at
your back! Nigel
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