Cassini blog #178 Baino to Muros then Muxia

Cassini's blog
Simon and Sally, Nigel and Catherine
Sun 8 Jun 2025 13:39
Baiona to Muros then Muxia
Leaving Baiona, ready to depart just after 9am, I had a thought to check the anchor operation knowing that was our plan for the next stop. Unfortunately no power to the unit so our Master Electrician, climbed into the anchor locker yet again to check wiring. Having found a ropey junction he stripped it back, remade the connections and hey presto we were up and running again. Great news and only just over an hour later than we had hoped.

We did manage to sail for about two and a half hours, with a poled out headsail and wind from astern but as ever, the wind dropped and sadly it was back to the engine.

The anchorage at Muros was delightful; three other sailboats were there when we arrived (which always inspires confidence that it’s a good place to stop), and another couple came in shortly after us.

Anchor down first time in eight meters, and we deployed the anchor trip linebuoy as additional security in case it became fouled on the bottom, which in the pilot guide is characterised by discarded fishing tackle and rocks with mud if you are lucky (or good!).

A lovely peaceful anchorage; showers off the back for the hardier souls, and entertainment in the shape of a rowing team made up of thirteen men and one lady cox who kept them well under control. Plenty of standing start practice runs and then some speedy turns around a marker buoy, never seen row boats perform a 180’ turn at that speed before!

Saturday morning we lifted the anchor without incident, but with rather a lot of mud and weed. Exiting the Ria, we saw pods of what we took to be dolphins but when I got a closer look at one playing in the bow wave, it was too big for a dolphin. Pilot whales were more likely and it was magnificent. Certainly the full length of the fore cabin from the bow; such an amazing sight.

We did have sunshine for much of the way, but again not enough sailing wind, so engine for the 34 miles to Muxia marina.

Got there just before 3pm, tidy up, washed the decks and did some laundry. Super showers, then into the town for dinner: 3 whopping steaks and a plate of sardines between us after calamari and croquettes to start.

Today Sunday, we walked along the headland to the church of Santa Maria da Barca. It is famed for being a final destination of the Santiago de Compostella routes, and featured in the Martin Sheen film “The Way”. It is said to be the place where the Virgin Mary arrived in a stone boat to give courage to the apostle James and is visited by thousands of tourists each year.

The rocks are spectacular and the wildflowers prolific so we enjoyed our coastal walk back to the village.
Lunch on board followed by admin/library/siesta time.
Sally
Pictures:
Muros
Steaks in Muxia
Waves at Muxia
Santa Maria da Barca - the end of the Camino
Muxia marina in the background (behind the cross)
One of the ‘pilgrim’ stones ‘0’ km to go to the end!

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