32:22.72N
64:40.32W
Still in Chesapeake. But it has been many weeks since the
flocks of migrating geese passed us noisily on their journey
southwards.
So onwards we sail, in company with friends Richard and
Alison on Vulcan Spirit, to
Solomon Island at the mouth of the Patuxent
river where we anchor in sheltered Back Creek, almost completely landlocked and
as calm as a mill pond. The
next day, after an early morning dive to check the propeller and anodes, we
continue on to Deltaville, a pretty
anchorage. Here we cycle along
peaceful roads. So quiet here –
no-one about. Richard and Alison
attempt to improve our proficiency at cribbage with only partial
success.
A typical
Chesapeake lighthouse. Note the elegant simplicity
of the drainage system for the outside toilet. I do hope it’s attached
securely. |
|
By the following day, a gale is blowing. But it’s time to move on, to Norfolk, the
world’s largest naval base.
Fortunately, the gale helps to push us in the right direction and we
complete the long trip in record time, arriving in daylight to pass row upon row
of warships – cruisers, destroyers, aircraft carriers and a battleship - all in
various states of repair and renovation.
Not much further to the open sea now…
A
precipitous exit
We had planned to spend some time in this interesting
town. But having only just washed
the salt off the decks from our last trip, we were advised by weather guru Herb
on SSB radio that the weather ‘window’ to head out into the Atlantic was fast closing. If we wanted to leave, it was now - or
wait for the next window, whenever that might be.
Dating from
1875, the Thomas
Point Shoal Light is one of
the most recognised symbols of Maryland. | |
So despite not having had a chance to top up with milk
and fresh food, we tidy up, stow and secure any loose items, don our full
thermals and wet weather gear and, at 11pm the same evening, haul up the anchor
and set off again.
Destination?
When it comes to describing their destinations, sailors are
usually pretty coy. You just never
quite know. So they use words like
towards to describe their
objectives. We would head east for
250 miles or so and then on towards
the Virgin Isles, over 1000 miles to the south. But the most important thing was to
avoid northerly winds. These would
produce huge seas when blowing against the north setting gulf stream - hence our
detour to the east to clear the stream quickly.
We sail over the tunnel part of the bridge/ tunnel that
crosses the mouth of the Chesapeake and soon we are out in the ocean
flying along in the strong southwesterlies, spray everywhere. We sail through what appears to be dry
land in the middle of nowhere – huge carpets of Sargasso seaweed – and soon the
boat is festooned with greenery.
Stellie, who has been rather missing her gardening since leaving
England, really appreciates
this. In a trice she is up on deck
to get on with some weeding.
The seaweed is actually an important eco-system. Turtle hatchlings and eel larvae live in
it for the first few years of their lives, floating about in the Sargasso Sea to
the west of Bermuda.
The winds remain strong, the gulf stream with its many
eddies buffets us about, but we are making excellent progress. After only 36 hours we are able to shed
our thermals and enjoy milder weather, tempered by the warm stream that at times
pushes us to the north at 3 knots. We re-commission the watermaker, last used on
our trip to Maine, and it works perfectly. With 25 gallons of fresh water produced
per hour we can now shower as often as we like, and we continue to head to the
east to maintain the favourable winds.
It’s a
tough call
Decisions can be like this sometimes.
Never ones to make any decision where thoughtful
prevarication will serve perfectly well instead, we are faced with a difficult
choice. We get to about 180 miles
to the NE of Bermuda, keep our radio 'sched' with Herb, and a dilemma
arises. Apparently there’s a
depression bringing bad weather and gale force winds to the south of Bermuda. And
it’s due to arrive at the weekend.
This means we must choose from the following 2
options:
a) Reef all sails, prepare storm staysail, lash everything
down, batten down the hatches (not sure what this means but it sounds good),
start medication - stugeron, prepare towing warps, etc, or
b) Book a
table at the Swizzle Inn steak house, Bermuda, for Friday night.
What
would you do? Anyway, it just goes to illustrate why
sailors use the term towards when
giving their destinations. By the
following evening, we are safely tucked up in St Georges harbour, back in the
familiar surroundings of lovely Bermuda after a record trip from Norfolk in under 4
days. Unplanned, maybe, but it's
certainly a welcome break.
Sunset over
a windswept
Bermuda | |
And the steak
at the Swizzle Inn? Delicious,
particularly when washed down with a rum swizzle (or two)…
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