40:32.67N 74:07.99W
Wonderful as
our time was in the UK, it was
rather marred by anxiety over a certain lady called Irene.
At one stage,
this tempestuous lady was almost directly on course for New England where Ananda lay, shored-up on dry land on
Rhode
Island. We
had presumed her to be safe and sound, but later learned that previous
hurricanes in Melville have produced a storm surge that rose over the
quayside, sweeping boats away.
Over in the
UK, there was little we could do
about it. But our friends at
the boatyard were terrific and secured Ananda, taking down her sprayhood and
lashing anything moveable to the deck.
Thank you Barry, Richard, Alison, Jean and Kevin for all your kind help
and reassurance, and for taking the trouble to keep in touch with us as events
unfolded.
Dangerous as
Irene was, her behaviour gradually improved and the damage was less severe than
many had expected, though the boatyard was without power for some days.
On our return
we were much relieved to find an unscathed Ananda, and immersed ourselves with last
minute jobs before our scheduled launch the next day.
A gleaming
Ananda is wheeled to the water’s edge and moments later our world returns to a
normal perspective back at sea level.
But there are problems with overheating of the stuffing box, the seal
between the prop shaft and the hull.
Wells and Carlos work hard to sort out the problem and by the next day
and 3 test sails later, all is in good order.
There’s a
schedule to keep and we’re soon on our way, on past Newport in foggy, wet
weather. Mirabella, the tallest sloop in the
world, is moored there, her mast top invisible in the low cloud. Out to sea, and it’s not too far till we
reach the eastern entrance of Long Island Sound. Here we anchor at the pretty town of
Stonington, Connecticut.
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Stonington lighthouse,
a first for the federal government in 1823. Note the 16 star, 16 stripe
flag - the same one that encouraged the yanks to man the cannons and
beat back an attempted British invasion in
1812! | |
But today
there’s another more welcome British invasion in the form of extra crew –
our son Peter arrives from London to cruise with
us through Long Island Sound to New
York. We
watch a great egret catch dozens of fish – every dip of his long beak a winner –
then enjoy gentle sailing to the beautiful Thimble Islands, where Captain Kidd used
to hide his ships. We anchor as the
sun sets behind tiny High Island, a
privately owned rock of pink granite with 4 or 5 beautiful homes. A dory floats past us with Mike and
Chris, whose family own one of the houses.
After a few drinks Peter and Keith go ashore, stumbling along overgrown
paths in the dark to visit Chris’s amazing house and its observation platform
high above the trees. Some say
Kidd’s treasure is buried here somewhere.
Just magic.
The cruise
continues to Contentment Island, Sheffield Island and across the sound to Oyster Bay and
Port Washington. But the highlight is yet to come – a trip
along the East River through Hell Gate to Manhattan, New
York.
We plan our
departure carefully as the currents in the river can reach 5 knots. The weather is kind to us with a broad
reach towards the entrance of East River at Throgs Neck
Bridge.
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Throgs Neck Bridge and a fascinating
passage ahead
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On we continue, past Rikers Island and its notorious prison, the
world’s largest penal colony with 15000 inmates. Obviously not enough though. Because we also pass a hulk, a forbidding-looking prison-ship
festooned with razor wire. Hanging
off the gratings, the inmates stare morosely at us as we sail by – for them, a
glimpse of freedom, an Eden without access.
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No holiday cruise ship
– the hulk near Rikers
Island | |
Next is Roosevelt Island and on
past the famous Manhatten skyline with the Empire State United Nations and
Chrysler Buildings and under the Queensboro, Williamsburg, Manhatten and Brooklyn bridges.
And all done with minimal
hassle and interference from the armed coastguard cutters.
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A relaxed Peter
outstares the manned machine gun on the coastguard
cutter | |
Heading southwards, we come across
some moored square-riggers, a pretty sight against the waterfront.
But I am taken aback by the name
of one of the ships – the district of Liverpool where I spent my childhood
years!
As we sail past the tip of
Manhatten, rising upwards from Ground Zero is one of the new towers that will
replace the World Trade Centre.
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Battery, Manhattan. The building under
construction on the right is 1 World Trade Centre, one of a number
of towers planned to replace the twin
towers. | |
We pass a busy heliport, with
helicopters buzzing everywhere.
Sadly, only a few days later, one of these crashed on take-off with loss
of life. Then into view comes the
sight we have been waiting for, the statue of Liberty, arm outstretched in welcome. Nearby is Ellis Island, the gateway where generations of immigrants
landed in the hope of being allowed to enter this prosperous land. By the time it closed in 1954, it had
processed 12 million immigrants since opening in 1892. One third of Americans can trace their
ancestors to this island!
The lovely lady waves
back | |
After these sights, it’s a bit of
a haul down to Verrazano Narrows and the enormous suspension bridge that
links Staten Island to Brooklyn – a mile wide gap that marks
the entrance to New
York. Ananda appears almost insignificant as
we pass beneath and on towards Great
Kills Harbour. But the entrance
to the harbour is shallow and so we drop anchor off Staten
Island to await the tide.
It’s a rather curious fact that
Staten Island, now home to 500,000 residents, only became part of New York State as the result of a yacht race! It previously belonged to New Jersey, but both
states claimed it. New York’s Captain
Charles Billip and his sloop Bently won the race – and the island
too.
It’s dusk now, and the tide is
just about high enough. But our
hearts are in our mouths as we feel our way in over the shifting sands into the
calm safe haven that is Great Kills
Harbour and with much
relief we finally drop the anchor at the end of an amazing day. It’s pretty here with tree-lined shores,
yet an easy commute to the sights of New York City – a perfect blend of comfort and
convenience. Pete’s girlfriend Vic
flies out to join us and we enjoy a week as tourists in the great
metropolis.
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…and the police lying
in wait for the ‘Occupy
Wall Street’
protesters | |
The new memorial at
Ground Zero – a fitting tribute to those who died in
9/11 | |
When it comes to enjoying wildlife
in its natural habitat, New
York would not be the first place that springs to mind.
Yet, outside the Holocaust Museum at Battery in downtown Manhattan, we watched
humming birds and butterflies collect pollen from flowers in a pretty public
garden.
Another treat for us is a visit
from American cousins Jeannie and Joel, who drive down from New Jersey to visit us on
Ananda. Great to catch up with family
news!
All too soon it’s time to say
goodbye to Pete and Vic as they return to New York for a couple of days before their
flight home.
Time to head south again, and as
the sun sets we edge past Sandy Hook Light, the start point for Charlie Barr’s
transatlantic race and the many other attempts that followed him.
Soon we are alone on the open
sea…
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