Wildwinter
Sat 25 Feb 2006 21:44
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Friday, 24
February.
Had breakfast in the courtyard huddled under a gas
patio heater with hands grasped around coffee cups to restore circulation, then
set off to the Medina for a morning's wander. The sun was trying to come
out and spirits were raised. Started down Tallaa Kebira enjoying the busy
life of the souk and looking into little shops and down the narrowest of
alleyways. Brigitta was still cold so we were enticed into a shopette where
Abdul was selling wool coats, djellabas and bournous'. She bought a
super one that will look great in Hexham Tescos but there was great mirth when
Olaf got stuck half out of a djellaba! On down the hill to the henna souk
where we were given a lesson on it and other natural cosmetics. In the same
little square was a building that had been one of the earliest hospitals, set up
in 1426, making use of all the local herbs as medicants. Further down we
came to the Medersa El Attarin (1325) which was closed for renovation.
However, as we arrived some workmen came out and we managed to talk our way in
for the price of 4 cups of tea. It is another stunning central courtyard
with the most beautiful stucco and cedar wood carving all around the
walls. We were so lucky to see it as it will be closed for another 2
years. The Safferin Merdersa just down the hill was open but was very
plain and dull. We were peering up at an unusual dome on the Kaeouine
Mosque (also closed) when a man offered to take us up to a roof terrace to get a
better view. Needless to say it involved passing through a carpet shop,
but we resisted temptation and got a good view of the green tiled roofs and a
general view across the city. Passed souk stalls that were supposed to have very
old, decorative ceilings. One did and there was a restaurant with a fine
one in its entrance lobby which had probably been a stall
originally.
Reached the Bab R'cif where Zouhir met us and took
us for lunch at a nice restaurant in the new town. From there he took us
to Bahlil where an amusing old Berber called Mohammed Chraibi gave us tea in his
troglodyte house and then walked us round the village in the pouring rain.
Several local women were washing clothes at the village washing point, up to
their elbows in freezing cold water, and one in bare feet and
flip-flops, but apparently immune to it as they were laughing and
chattering amongst themselves and with us. Hurried back to the car and on
to Sefrou for another walk round the medina. Sefrou was a third Jewish town
until they all left/were pushed in the fifties. By now it was chucking it
down, a bitter wind was howling round every corner and a kind chap emptied the
awning above his stall of accumulated rain water right at our feet. Paula
was soaked up to her knees! Stopped to watch lady outworkerscollecting
materials to make silk bobbly buttons for djellabas etc. Would have bought some
if it had been possible to access cash without getting a pocketful of rain. The
Jewish cemetry and synagogue lacked a little wow factor in the prevailing
weather conditions, but we dutifully trooped around like well bred, tough
northcountrymen. Moral was sinking as we crawled back into the car, soaked and
frozen but the Hyundai heater at full blast warmed us up quickly although
condensation on the windows made the drive home in the dark somewhat
hazardous. A welcome tea at Riad Al Pacha before a hot shower and off to
Riad Mabrouka for dinner. A fantastic chicken and lamb cous-cous, two
great bottles of Moroccan wine, all taken under 3 huge patio heatersand
life was back on course.
Saturday, 25
February.
Time to move on. After a little
administrative hicough caused by a combination of me and Latif, Olaf and I
procured our Toyota Landcruiser (basic Amazon model). The Riad was packed
with Rasheed (owner), Latif, (late guide), Abdul (his cousin, restaurant owner
and email proprietor) and sundry other guests who were about to be swept up
into the Mafia's clutches as we had been. In the middle of goodbyes, bon
voyages and handshakes all around, we managed to get our considerable pile of
luggage wheeled down to the car park. All packed into the car and off we
went. As driver I had plenty of advice about the direction of travel, the
whereabouts of other road users, donkeys, traffic lights and a few false alarms
about items of clothing left behind. The sun was out at last and
blasting through the windscreen onto my winter woolies, again put on against the
morning chill. The excitement and concentration of the four occupants soon
had me in a fine old sweat, but as we eventually broke clear of the city onto
the road south everyone started to settle down and the temperature with
it.
We headed for Ifrane and soon climbed
above the snow line. Stopped at a fossil stall to buy some of the huge
variety found in the area and then again in Ifrane to top up cash at a handy
cashpoint. Here the snow was about 15 inches deep and the locals were all
having a jolly Saturday snowballing and digging the pavement out. It was
good to see such spontaneous fun.
When we got to Azrou, the Erfoud road was closed by
the snow so we detoured to the southwest and stopped for lunch in Kenifra.
A simple but adequate meal of mixed kebabs set us up for the long leg back east
over the hills to Midelt. It was lovely scenery, again climbing up into
the snow, passing pine forests before dropping gently down to the east
again. Very rural as we passed through little farming villages, most with
resident storks just back from their winter elsewhere.
Arrived in Midelt about 5.30, checked out one hotel
but settled on the Safari-Atlas Hotel where we had tea and a shoe shine, a rest
and then dinner in their rather deserted dining room. We were draped in thick
fleece blankets like four old crones, but we enjoyed an excellent kebab and
tagined chicken and chips! Circulation was further restored by a tot or two of
whisky huddled round the gas heater (surface area 6in x 4in) in O&B's
bedroom Our rooms are above the cafe and the GIANT television screen. Its
volume is such that our floor reverberates and the breeze blocks shake with Moroccan football commentary. Ear
plugs tonight! Our small gas heater burst into flames around the control knob
when I lit it, but our landlord replaced it after I had invited him to light it
too!
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