Blog from Durban
Oceanpearl
Thu 8 Dec 2022 14:51
A great relief to arrive in Durban after a passage of great contrasts.
On reaching the harbour entrance, we had a grumpy VHF radio exchange with a difficult to understand Durban Port Control as we requested permission to enter the harbour - we got a very stern ‘Ocean Pearl permission was granted - proceed!’
Durban is the biggest commercial harbour we have sailed into perhaps with the exception of Panama.
We were met by a dinghy with clear instructions of where to berth.
We then received the warmest welcome on our arrival in Durban Marina. We were directed to our pontoon, where there was a reception party from our Rachel and Gavin, our Oyster support team , the Marina, and two yacht clubs, Royal Natal Yacht Club and Point Yacht Club. Having taken our lines and helped us secure the boat we were presented with cold beer and information packs.
We were invited to attend the Marina office with all our papers and they then drove the whole crew, 6 of us with all our documentation to the Immigration offices in town to complete our Immigration procedures. This took about an hour, they then came back for us.
We were all invited to a complimentary breakfast the next morning in the yacht club restaurant .
The highlight of our stay in Durban was the imminent arrival of Amy and husband together with Tegan, 8, Zac, 6 and Roxy, 4 who were stopping off to see us on their return journey from their holiday in Mozambique. We spent a couple of days sorting Ocean Pearl out so the they could sleep on board,
After a long drive they arrived at 5.30 , and we helped them from the car park in torrential rain and growing darkness. Not a perfect introduction to our life on board Ocean Pearl!
We had a lovely evening together.
Sunday morning dawned dry and bright and we went for an Ocean Pearl trip around the harbour. It was a bit bumpy, a few felt a bit sea-sick, but Zac loved it and , on Roger’s lap, steered the boat back to our berth.
After bidding them farewell as they left for their return flight on Monday, we hired a car and set off on Tuesday to visit the Drakensberg mountains, about. 4 hour drive from Durban. After about 3 hours of gentle climb on the N3 motorway, we had a 40 mile journey across high level plains of Zulu communities. A fascinating insight into the contemporary
life-style of Zulus of the 21st century.
The housing was very spread out with lots of green space between the different pockets of housing., mostly in groups of 4-5 small square houses, with a traditional Zulu round- shaped house within the compound. I understand these are houses of the several wives within many families and they all eat together in the roundel. Others suggest that the roundel is the home of the grandparents.
The huge area is surrounded by the many peaks of the Drakensberg mountains. There is little evidence of cultivation of crops of vegetables, perhaps because of the thin soil over the mountainous area which is covered with grass that looks like manicured lawn. All very picturesque.
We stayed at the Cathedral Peaks Hotel, which was opened in the 1930s by a Dutchman and is still in the family, now managed by his grandson. A complete change to be in the mountains and a great break from the boat.
We returned to Durban with one day to prepare for departure to Cape Town - the main preparation being a massive food shop to feed six people for 7-9 days.
Passage to Cape Town
We will be a.total crew of 6 as two local sailors of the Point Yacht Club are keen to sail on an Oyster and offer their local knowledge and experience on the notoriously challenging passage down the South east coast with its Agulhas current and around the Cape of Good Hope.
So 73 year old Neville and his friend Sean (61) are joining us.
We were invited to the Point Yacht Club Christmas Lunch on Saturday and enjoyed it.
On the Oyster table no-one was drinking and all were constantly referring to weather reports on their phones as we were all planning to depart for Cape Town either in the afternoon, the evening or early the following morning .. Time of departure depended on different expectations of where the areas of low pressure would hit us on the passage of 840 nautical miles. Some were already planning to seek shelter from big winds in either East London or Port Elizabeth. Our locals did not think this would be necessary.
We finally set sail for Cape Town at 9pm on Saturday 3rd December with a farewell party of Sean’s wife, daughter and grandchildren to wave us off.
The first night’s sail was busy as Neville and Sean found their way around Ocean Pearl - a very different vessel from their lean racing yacht built and fitted out for speed with minimal comfort.
Sunday
Rough sea, one big winds and big swells made an uncomfortable ride for me. For the first time my. Wrist bands did not work and I had 36 hours of sea- sickness. Not much fun !
Dana was amazing and did a great job feeding everyone.
Monday
A very wet start, after a very wet night. Miserable watch, cold and wet - not the idyllic sunshine cruise you all imagine!
As the day progressed, the skies cleared, the sun came out, the seas calmed a bit and we had a pleasant sail.
We then saw some flying fish first - not hugely exciting as we have seen many over the last few months - but any wildlife is good to see.
Then a huge bird with a massive wing span glided past us. It was a spectacular looking albatross, who was then joined by a few others. They barely flapped their wings, just glided smoothly, apparently riding the wind - beautiful to watch.
Then there was a cry of ‘DOLPHINS’ and we were surrounded by a pod of large dolphins.
Watching from the bow (the front!) we could see them 5 abreast swimming in parallel with the boat, regularly leaping out. We counted 15 in all. They stayed with us for about 20 minutes obviously enjoying accompanying the boat as we sailed at around 8 knots.
A day full of contrasts
Tuesday
After a calm night, motoring on calm seas, I came on watch as Roger was hoisting, with a change of wind direction and about 10 knots of wind.
All fine - but a bit cold. Wearing full salopettes, several layers under jacket and shoes / boots and socks to keep warm. Only on these South African passages have we needed such ‘extreme’ clothing!
All continues to be fine until we hear a crash below, the sound of Sean falling ,in his sleep, off the top bunk, in a sudden lurch as the boat sailed down a big wave, resulting in a bad cut just above his left eye. Obviously Sean was in pain, shock and bleeding heavily, and Neville took over as chief first aider - a role in which he has had a lot of experience.
Sean has already lost the top of a finger on a winch and he told us the
At his wife has instructed him that if he loses any more body parts he will not be allowed home!
It just shows how, at sea, an accident can happen when least expected, even with very experienced sailors who would have known to put up the lee cloths, designed to keep sleeping sailors in their bunks, but such an oversight could have had more serious consequences.
As the day progressed, Sean recovered well, and enjoyed a sunny day in calm seas with the rest of us, ending with a dramatic sunset, coinciding with a bright moon rising. We celebrated with the first sundowner drink of the passage.
In touch daily with other boats in the fleet, all experiencing different winds and weather.
Four boats went into East London port for shelter on Monday night.
Thursday
We have now arrived at Cape Town on a beautiful sunny but cold morning with totally calm, mirror-like sea. The approach to the harbour and marina is spectacular with Table Mountain crystal clear without its usual table cloth of mist
We check in with Harbour Control who give us permission to enter, then request to Marina to open their swing bridge - but they are now on a scheduled Power outage, so we have to hang about until 12.30.
Power was eventually restored, the bridge lifted to let us into the Marina ,one of the nicest marinas we have been in as we have circumnavigated more than three quarters of the globe.
It is boiling hot - not complaining about that! - so nice to watch seals playing around in h marina.
We will be here until early January , We have booked a safari in the Kruger for Christmas, plan a few days in Franschoek and there are many other things to do and see.
Love to everyone, wishing a very happy Christmas to everyone. We are sorry not to be with our families. Everything has a price.
Please let me know if you manage to access the bogs!
Maryhutch101 {CHANGE TO AT} gmail {DOT} com
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