Deshaises, Guadeloupe

True Colours
James Scrimshaw
Wed 19 Feb 2014 15:23

Position 16:18.46N 061:47.91W

Monday morning we did all those tiresome things that need to be done – filled with water, topped up with diesel, and refilled the petrol can (outboard and genset).  Then we went and looked over the facilities at Midway where we plan to store our soft furnishings, old tender, and most of the boat contents while she is stored over the summer (we are told that mildew can be a real problem for things left in the boat). Then in the afternoon a trip to the beach and swim.

Monday evening we ate with Oli at Cap Horn, a French Bistro.  James has a hot stone, and for probably the first time in 38 years cooked his own meal – steak and prawns.  Food was excellent, washed down with a bottle of red wine (called “Arrogant Frog”  - bizarre for a French wine in a French restaurant with a French owner!).

Yesterday we left Falmouth at 8.20, under main with 3 reefs and almost full genoa (we like to sail conservatively!).  Initially the wind was lighter (ca 15kn) and more aft than forecast and we had a pleasant broad reach making about 7 knots.  After 2 hours we were hit by a squall (we saw it coming and had shortened the headsail in anticipation) which gave us winds of up to 30 kn, but also headed us.  After the rain and clouds left, the wind was then stronger than forecast (ca 20kn) and also slightly forward of the beam, but while more challenging, the sailing was still good and we maintained good speed until we came into the shadow of Guadeloupe.  Our target destination was Deshaises (which the book tells us is pronounced “Day-ay”, at the north end of the west coast, where there is a sheltered bay, with on shore facilities and good anchoring (all according to the cruising guide).  Just before reaching Deshaises we were hit by another squally storm (this time we had taken all sails down) which lasted about 30 minutes and drenched the helmsman (who was only wearing swimming trunks).

The anchorage was fairly busy, but we picked a spot, put down the anchor in 7m of water, did the reversing bit to dig it in, and lo and behold – it held (we have since been monitoring it on the chart plotter to confirm).    Total distance 42 miles, journey time 7 hours 10 minutes. 

After a bit of tidying up, we went ashore to clear in (at a local shop with a computer link) and then decided to have a meal ashore.  Deshaises if a French territory, and is very French, but we just about managed to decipher the menu and understand the waiter – so we had black pudding sausages for starters, followed by chicken, washed down with beer.  Price was reasonable (all in euros, of course) and the food excellent.  Then back to the boat for an early night.

Today we will go back ashore, and do a bit of exploring.

Pictures of leaving Antigua, of Deshaises, and of the plot of our movement at anchor.

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