South to Male

Wildfox
Anthony Swanston
Fri 30 Mar 2018 06:00

The problem with being just about five degrees north of the equator is that there is no wind.  The interminable motoring is boring; tedious to say the least.  Getting fuel in these out of the way places can be difficult.  Added to that, then poor me has to do the engine servicing. 


But the scenery makes it all worthwhile.  Sadly though there was a major coral bleaching here a few years back and many of the reefs which are less than 10 metres deep are now dead.  We work our way south on day hops.  No night sailing in the Maldives.  The charts are fiction (drawn by hand in 1835) and coral heads (bommies, we call them) can rise up from 50 metres to being just below the surface.  So it is a constant lookout with high sun and polarised glasses.


We get to Male and, to keep the locals employed, have to clear customs again with the help of my local clearance agent. You are not able to anchor at Male but go to the adjacent airport island and find a place among the many huge tour boats.  Floating litter abounds with plastic bags big enough to stall my outboard.  But I am able to fill up with water and diesel from small tankers.  Loads of boat movements, loads of speed boats and right on the airport flight path; but there are good shops ashore. There is always a consolation …


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