I arrive at Escape River and sail into a lovely anchorage for a well earned rest and yet another classic sunset. But no crocs in sight. But lots of termite mounds, three metres high, bright red and magnetic. Sorry I cannot get close enough for a 'photo. I leave and arrive at the 300 yard wide Albany Passage to find that the current is running south on each shore and running north up the middle at 3.5 knots. I whizz through, get buzzed by a customs helicopter and anchor behind York Island. There are hundreds of hikers walking out to the end of Cape York. At dusk a navy boat anchors nearby and next morning goes on exercise firing live rounds.

From here to Thursday Island. First Tuesday Island, then Wednesday Island, then Thursday. If I get to Friday Island I have gone too far and have to go back one. I am really getting the hang of this navigation! A 2.5 knot current sweeps me into the anchorage and I am glad to be one of the first to arrive. This is going to be very crowded when the other 50 rally boats get here. We actually anchor at Horne Island as Thursday is a very windy lee shore. Most services, including customs, are on Thursday but it is an easy ferry ride over. The tides are interesting. There are six today. On the passage out when I plan to leave on Saturday the current will peak at 5.8 knots. If I get that back to front I will be in trouble!

As an island everything is expensive. Duty free fuel here is more expensive than duty paid fuel in Cairns. Two wind turbines save the power plant 250,000 litres of diesel each year.

Boats are now arriving in a constant stream...