32:44.50N 16:43.17W
Whisper
Noel Dilly
Thu 11 Oct 2012 22:24
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"Madeira - 11th October 2012"
We have been back on Whisper for nearly a week and
spent several days walking and continuing to enjoy life on this beautiful
island. We have hired a small car which has been a little like learning to
drive all over again. The roads on Madeira are very narrow once off the
main highway, so a small car is a necessity in order to squeeze safely
past parked cars, pedestrians, workmen, on coming traffic, rocks, pot
holes and any other object waiting around the numerous tight corners.
The gearbox is manual, so that in itself is a challenge driving on the left
side of the car. Fortunately the foot controls are the same, so it is only
the manipulation of the gear lever that is troublesome with the right
hand. Most of the driving is in low gears, the roads are steep and winding
and our little car needs to be in first or second most of the time going up hill
and third downhill, getting into forth gear is something to celebrate and fifth
on the two lane highway is just about possible on the level
or a downhill run! It is all great fun and a bit of an adventure each
time we go out.
The car has made it far easier to explore
of the island and find some interesting walks. One walk took us high into
the hills where we parked in a small village square conveniently in front of the
bar! It was interesting to see the women there all wore plaid skirts,
headscarves, wellington boots and carried a scythe. As we walked along the
agricultural tracks, we saw them working industriously on the small
terraces, clearing the ground and harvesting their crops. The terrain was far
more lush than the other areas we have walked in on the eastern end of the
island and smelt very agricultural. Goats bleated, tethered on the
terraces, whilst cattle grazed on the open hillside, only stopped from roaming
to far by the sheer drop down the valley or the occasionally fence and cattle
grid. We saw some cows lying on the edge of the rocks seemingly
oblivious to the drop into the valley below. The views from the summit
were breath taking as always and the shade and scent of the
laurasilva forest, as we dropped back down the other side of the ridge to
complete the circuit back to the village, was delightful.
The long cool drink at the bar when we finally arrived back at the car
was most welcome[.
Yesterdays walk was even more pleasureable, taking
us six hours in all. Firstly the drive was exciting as we crawled up
the hills in first and second gear never quite sure what we might find
around the next corner or how steep it might be. It started off as a
circular walk, but was also the start of a much longer trail, which we
followed for some distance before retracing our steps and completing the
circuit. This walk was spectacular, it followed a levada high
up in the forest above the valley below. The path was covered in
dried leaves which crunched beneath our feet, although the surrounding trees
were green and lush. At times the path was only inches wide and
all the time the levada flowed slowly and gently beside us. When the
path became open to the fall below, wire rails kept you safe and
confident. At times the levada was cut into the rock creating narrow
tunnels as it wound around the hill. Three waterfalls crossed the path,
running gently at this time of the year, creating a damp haven for the mainy
mosses and ferns. It was a magical walk and so easy going, that is
until we retraced our steps back to the point where the circular walk branched
off. The narrow trail took us straight up to the starting
source of the levada and for about 30 mins we climbed up. We had met a
couple at the junction who were pondering over a map and when they saw
us about to go up, asked us the way. We confirmed that this was
the circular walk back to the village where we had left our cars. We have
a book of walks on the island which gives a good description of points to look
out for so we were confident of the way. They followed us up to
the source of the levada, which was a really pretty series of pools and
water cascades. According to the book we then had to retrace our
steps 25m and find a path marked by twigs lain over the levada. We
had all walked past it on the way up not noticing it. Another 15 minutes
of climbing up followed until we broke out of the undergrowth to an open area at
a derelict farm. Again the book gave instructions to walk along a
wide grass path in front of the buildings for 50m until we came across a gate on
the left leading to an old Madeiran path. We eventually found
it, hidden from view by trees and shrubs. The path was
beautiful, made with small rough hewn pieces of rock lain
on their edge and placed to create rounded shallow steps so that a cart
could easily be rolled up. It certainly made the long descent comfortable
on our knees. Several other instructions from the book returned us
all to our cars and the bar. Here our fellow English speaking
walkers from Estonia, brought us refreshments to thank us for being their
guide! It was interesting to chat with them over our drinks before going
our separate ways. I think it would have been difficult for them to have
found their way with only a map as there was only one hand written sign
indicating the way at the point where we crossed the levada. After that
the clues of what to look for were definitely needed. It was a great
day.
The episode of the sail cover cloth has finally
ended. The well travelled fabric finally arrived with the sailmaker
and he has produced a very smart awning for Whisper. It
has really transformed life on board, the temperature difference is
tremendous, not only is the cockpit covered from the exposure to the sun so that
we can now sit out comfortably, but also the cabin below is so much airier and
cooler. A well worth investment - Caribbean here we come!
Two days ago we were delighted to see our American
cruising friends Dick and Moira arrive in the marina. We had last seen
them in Nazare and as they are heading back home to the USA, we were hoping
that our paths would cross again as we all head south to make the
Atlantic crossing. We hope to be able to show them a little of the island
before we return the hire car. I must confess that I am not
quite sure how the little car will react to having four on board and can
envisage some interesting moments. Does anyone know if there is another
gear below first?
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