16:48.132N 062:12.435W

Whisper
Noel Dilly
Sat 23 Feb 2013 23:08

Montserrat - 22nd February

Yesterday, was a quiet day, last minute supply shopping and preparing Whisper for sailing again. We had planned to leave Guadeloupe but the French weather forecast was giving 3-4 metre waves in the channels between the islands from the Atlantic swells.  We were not the only yacht to sit tight and wait for better conditions today!

We got up early and after breakfast we were on our way  by 8am.  Several other boats had left earlier and several followed us out, but none of them were heading for Montserrat, so we had the sea to ourselves.  It was a grey day to start with but as we left the island we left the cloud behind and had a scorching hot sail accompanied by a cooling breeze.  The wind was from the east and the swell from various directions but nothing alarming in height. 

We sailed up the west coast of Montserrat keeping the obligatory 2 miles maritime exclusion zone off shore.  The Soufriere volcano which last erupted in 2010 remains active, the southern half of the island is quite a spectacle with its stark harsh terrain towered over by the barren and smoking volcano.  As we passed along the coast the capital town of Plymouth was visible, covered in ash with lava flows passing around and through the middle,  huge boulders thrown down from the eruption reminded us of the power of nature.  The population of the island was about 11,000 in 1995, the main trades being farming, fishing and tourism.  The first eruption was in 1995 and another followed in 1997 the people were evacuated from Plymouth and surrounding areas, the evacuees either left the island or went to live with relatives in the safer northern sector.  The existing population is only approximately 5,000.  In 2003 it was thought that the volcano was going to sleep, the huge volcanic dome had collapsed and many areas were reopened, homes were repaired etc.  Sadly in the beginning of 2006 more activity and major eruptions caused the exclusion zone to be re-established.  The population now living in the north of the island are full of hope for the future, their aim is to bring back the evacuated Montserratians, expand their tourist trade and create more jobs.  The south of the island may show the power of nature but the northern area is exemplary in showing how the human race can adapt and thrive in the face of adversity. 

Photograph:  "Soufriere Volcano"
                     "City of Plymouth under ash"
                    

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