We spent a terrific weekend at Omisalj, on the
Arriving in the bay soon after , we met up with some friends who are also doing the
World ARC. They live in
keep a racing boat in the marina here. We went for a sail on their boat, tacking
up and down the bay until the wind finally disappeared altogether. They took us,
by car, further into the island. The scenery was so beautiful, so green, with
surprisingly, a great many deciduous trees. We drove along roads with grape
vines on all sides, as far as the eye could see, until we reached a bodega and
bought some wine to help replenish our stores.
That evening we ate with our new friends, at their
weekend house. After a sumptuous meal we walked around the town admiring the
wonderful architecture. Most of the very old houses have been refurbished to
their former glory. There are still a few left, waiting for a new owner to
renovate them sympathetically.
Next day, we spent several hours discussing and
demonstrating the various pieces of equipment already fitted on our boat. The
boat which they have purchased for the circumnavigation is currently in
Sweden and will
need to be fitted with a lot of new toys before it leaves
Europe. It was useful therefore, to be able to look at
some of the options, which were actually being used on a daily basis.
In return, we were shown on the chart, the most
attractive places to visit and the best anchorages to use. With a bora forecast
for the end of the week, there is nothing like local knowledge, when it comes to
finding a safe anchorage.
Then, after lunch, they were off, back to
look forward to meeting again in Las
On Monday, we moved on from Omisalj and made passage to
Punat, just 2 miles east of the capital of the island, also named Krk. The only
wind we encountered was that which we generated ourselves as we motored along
through a flat sea, dodging the fishing pots.
We anchored just behind the tiny
Kosljun, which is in Puntarska Draga,
a large landlocked inlet. There is a Franciscan monastery, on Kosljun, founded
in the 12th century, which houses a museum and a library, which
contains old manuscripts and books.
The temperature guage was registering 35.4º at and the water was warm and
We didn’t leave our anchorage next day, until after
, making passage to Uvala Sv.
Funija, a large bay, immediately to the west of Rab town, on the
The island of Rab is separated from the mainland by the
Velebitski Kanal, where the bora blows violently, causing the east side of the
island, presumably like so many of the islands that we have passed, to look
barren. The west side of the island, again, like other islands we have passed,
is green, wooded and fertile.
The trip took just over 4.5 hours. An hour before we were
due to arrive at our anchorage, a huge dolphin jumped right out of the water,
startling me. Before long it was joined by a mate, then 2 smaller dolphins, with
others making up the chorus 500 metres away, both forward and aft, starboard
side. We were treated to an amazing performance of somersaults, synchronized
swimming and high jumps from the water, leaving a body length clear between the
sea and the dolphin. This spectacle lasted about 15minutes before we left them
We had planned to move on but with the bora now expected
to manifest itself later in the day, we moved across to the other side of the
bay, to reduce the fetch, when the wind , forecast to reach 50mph, blew from the
north east. Dropping an anchor, we spent the day bobbing around in the hot
sunshine on the blue water.
A couple of small day boats anchored nearby and at one
stage, one of them started to drift towards us. There were a number of local
boats tied up to the rickety pontoons, with only 8 boats, including ourselves,
at anchor in this huge bay. We watched the electrical storms all around us and
listened to the howling wind but were well protected.
Thursday morning, we moved to Rab town quay, where we
tied up alongside, then went ashore for provisions. Generally, we have found
that the meat is good and inexpensive but that there is not always a good
selection of fruit and vegetables, which are expensive.
Rab was an attractive town, popular with
We managed to sail most of the way to our anchorage, not
mentioned in the pilot book but identified on the chart as U.Slatinica on the
low lying island of
This was the first clear water that we have encountered
on this trip and although the weather was cooler than we have been experiencing
and the water cooler than in the previous bay, it was wonderful to be able to
swim, watching the fish.
The bottom of the bay was hard sand, covered with a lot
of what looked like sponges. We were surrounded on 3 sides by green, heavily
wooded, gentle slopes with what looked liked a rocky beach at sea level. On one
corner there was an open fronted brick or stone hut, protected from the sea by a
wall. Half way along the same side of the bay, near to the top of the slope,
stood a small, white church. A dry-stone wall, which ran round most sides of the
bay, was in various stages of collapse.
Stopping here was not part of the original plan but as we
had been sailing, there wasn’t really time to reach Molat before it was almost
A couple of hours after our arrival, the wind changed
direction but the swell still came from the same direction, making the anchorage
uncomfortable. This sorted itself out after an hour or so but by , the wind was getting stronger. At
it was less than 10knots.This was
unusual as the wind tends to go down by about , sometimes a little later.
wind was blowing 25knots. We switched on the engines, raised the anchor and left
the bay, making our way towards Molat.
The wind was force 8 and gusting 9. Dick stayed on the
fly-bridge and Caroline and I stayed below. Such was the ferocity of the wind
and the size of the seas, we didn’t feel that it was safe to even take down the
Traveling at a top speed of just over10knots, though
sometimes with the wind head on, we didn’t achieve more than 4knots, we arrived
at our new anchorage about .
This weather hadn’t been forecast. The bora had been and
gone before we even left our anchorage the previous day. The forecast had shown
no wind at all.
the Navtex reported belatedly, the possibility of storms in this area. They had
been in receipt of this information yesterday but it hadn’t even been reported
until we were already experiencing it.
We spent a very lazy day on the boat eating lots of
comfort food to counteract the trauma of the previous 12 hours.
Next day, although the temperature is now down to mid
20º’s and we are thinking of putting the duvet back on the bed, the sun is
shining and the seas just a slight ripple. There is no wind of course. It has
all been used up, I hope.
We move to Molat town, in the next bay and make to tie up
alongside. A local tells us that we can’t stop there but once we explain that we
are only going ashore to buy some wine, he gladly takes our lines. In lesAs than
10 minutes we are on our way to a cove, named Vodenjak, on the
It is just enchanting. There is a small island about half
way across the cove. It is possible to walk from Iz to the small island but you
would get your feet wet walking across the very shallow, sandy, reef. The water
is the very palest blue, with trees and shrubs growing to the edge of the water.
Below: Rab old town, where we sat out the bora about
750metres from here