38 45.1793N 009 5.3726W
Date: Tuesday
11th August 2015 Position: Moored
in the Marina Parque das Nações, Lisbon When you are sailing alone the days just seem to meld into one another and
you loose all track of time. I brought
my first newspaper yesterday and this was the first time since leaving the UK that
I have caught up with what has been going on in the world. Still the same old crap happening everywhere
so I haven’t missed much! I arrived at Povoa de Varzim a week ago on Friday 24th
July. I had intended to move on to
Lisbon on Wednesday but looking at the forecast for Wednesday and Thursday very
light winds were predicted which would have meant motoring the whole 200 miles. Now, I’m no stalwart sailor and I am happy to
turn the engine on if needed. But on
the other hand, leaving with the intention of motoring all the way to Lisbon
was not the most pleasant of passages to look forward to. Beside which, it would take the best part of
a tank of diesel to get there and at around £200 a time to fill it that’s an
expense I could do without. So I decided
to wait for a more favourable weather window, which as it turns out is tomorrow
Saturday 1st August. There
was also another bonus to staying here for a few more days which is that the
mooring fees are virtually half of what I will be paying in Lisbon, 15€ a night
as compared with 28€ a night. The marina is adequate but a little bit strange if I
can put it like that. It is almost like
a city Counsellor turned up at a planning meeting one day and said, “look lads,
I’ve got this fantastic idea to regenerate the City. Why don’t we build ourselves a state of the
art marina”? Of course he would have
said it in Portuguese not English. So they
set to and built the City what should have been a state of the art marina. All the necessary infrastructure was put in,
a reception building, a huge ablutions block, laundry, chandlers and a series other
out buildings for various uses. They
even have a state of the art access system for gaining entrance to the marina. Rather that issuing you a code number or card
for the gate, it is done by your fingerprint.
When you first arrive you are asked to select which finger you would
like to use then you place it against a reader, which scans your fingerprint
into the system. Then all you do each
time you want to get back in to the marina is to place your finger on the
reader at the gate and it opens. All
this technology makes me very nervous though because we just forget the amount
of information we give away about ourselves without really thinking. Mobile phones are a classic example. If a Portuguese police office had stopped me
in the street and asked for my fingerprint I would have been outraged, quoting
abuse of my human rights or some such.
But here I am giving my fingerprint away quite freely to a company,
about which I know nothing. Just outside the
marina there is a large road which has street lighting, not lit, and an area
that looks like it had been set aside for building holiday flats or some such. It never ceases to amaze me how some people
will buy a 40-foot boat that would take them around the world and yet will
still buy a holiday home to go with it rather than live on the boat. Go figure!
Anyway, the site has now become a derelict wasteland used as a parking
lot by coaches and as a stopover for RVs of which there are dozens and dozens each
day. There are no facilities provided
for them but on the other hand they don’t pay anything to stay there which is
why they arrive in such numbers I expect. The whole place seems to have been well planned and
thought out and it should have been a great success. But the reality is that it has just not
taken off. Some parts remain unfinished,
whilst other areas looks like a kind of elephants’ graveyard for boats with
derelicts littering the place and the whole marina has a feel of dowdiness
about it. But, having been here for a
while now I can see how this is probably a hidden gem along this coat line. First and foremost it is cheap, which is why
there are a lot of yachts from all different countries laid up ashore being
refitted either before or after an Atlantic circuit. Connections are very good too. The metro is only 10 minutes walk from the
marina and you can be in the centre of Oporto in 50 minutes at a cost of 9€ for
a day ticket. There is also a local
airport that the budget airlines operate from which is also only a few stops
away on the metro. So if you are looking
for a twee marina with all the bells and whistles for a few days of luxury,
this is not the place for you. But if
you are looking for a cheap place to lay-up for a while and do some work on
your boat, you probably won’t find a better place than Povoa de Varzim. The city itself is very much a tourist area with a
long beach, miles long I would say, on one side and the marina about half a
mile out of the city on the other. There
are beaches this side too but the coast is a little rockier and more dangerous
it seems. Facilities are rather sparse
although you can get all you need by looking around. They consist mostly of small local shops such
as butchers, bakers, grocers and general stores dotted about here and there in
the back streets. There is one
supermarket in the city although it is more like a local store rather than a
large supermarket and there is the central produce market selling fruit, veg,
fish and meat at very good value. The
other day I brought a lovely piece of rump steak that in the UK would have cost
a good £7 for 3.50€. It is not a big
city by any means. The main shopping
centre consists of just a couple of streets if you don’t count the “kiss me
quick” shops on the seafront. Once the tourist season is over I expect the whole
place is pretty dead. But during the
summer there is obviously plenty going on.
I seem to have the knack of turning up at places when there is something
going on. Once I arrived in Guernsey
when the “Festival of the Sea” was on.
In Alderney I arrived when the town was having its annual
celebrations. There were events on
throughout the day and in the evening a big party on top of the hill. Then once in Gosport I arrived during a rock
festival, that was a pretty good night.
So I was quite happy to find that I had arrived in Povoa de Varzim
during the City festival weekend. The
festivities were located in front of the casino in a small area on the seafront. The best way I can describe the area is that
it is a little like the seafront at Brighton that back in the sixties the
bikers used for drag racing. A long
straight lined by arches on one side and the sea the other. I think, although I might be wrong, that the
London to Brighton vintage car rally finishes there. This place was similar a long straight road
lined with fishermen’s’ lockups at the end of which had been set-up a stage and
marquee. Various acts, performances took
place throughout Friday, Saturday and Sunday and I went along on the Saturday
evening to soak up the atmosphere and have a beer. A chap got on stage and did a bit of Karaoke
and a band that, despite the age of their lead singer, were not that bad
followed him. While these acts were on I noticed a few girls dressed in
costumes were beginning to gather and assumed they were some kind of dance
troop. My assumption was proved correct
when about twenty or so girls of all ages got on the stage to perform their
dance routines watched over by their doting mothers and grandmothers. It was Saturday night and it felt like I was
watching an episode of “Portugal’s got Talent” on the stage. Once they had finished their series of
routines the band came back on stage.
There is only so much music you can take in a foreign language so on the
basis of not overdoing a good thing I left and returned to the boat. There was also a large casino by the fishing harbour. I went in one evening just to see what it was
like and get the feel of the place. It
was very glitzy as one might expect. The
ground floor was a huge area filled just with slot machines, hundreds and
hundreds of slot machines, all flashing away with their coloured lights
attracting the attention of the suckers that sit in front of them constantly
feed the things money. I say suckers
because that is exactly what they are.
But then I’ve never really been much of a gambler I learnt that the hard
way in the army. When I joined as an
apprentice chef at the age of sixteen, a young boy from out in the sticks, the
first thing the senior apprentices did was to get you involved in card games. As an apprentice you were not paid your full
wages each month thank god. The majority was held in reserve for you as credits
and only paid in full when you went on leave so you had money to go home with. Instead you could opt to draw up to a maximum
of £5 each week, which for a sixteen year old was more than enough for most of
your needs seeing how your food and accommodation was already taken care
of. We were paid on a Friday and by
Monday morning most of the new intake would be skint, reduced to scrounging
cigarettes and cups of tea off mates, whilst the older apprentices would be
counting their winnings and telling tales of how they fleece us young’uns at
three-card brag. It doesn’t take many
weeks of being skint all the time before you finally wake up to the fact that
gambling is a suckers’ game and whilst very occasionally you might come out on
top, most times you don’t and are lucky if you barely come out even. That is why I never understand people who
can sit in front a machine and feed pound after pound into it. I mean if you were to take the time and look
around you, you would see that the whole place has been designed with one thing
in mind, to take your money. Just
thinking about the sheer cost of such an operation should tell you that someone
is loosing money big time and that someone is going to be you. One thing I did notice is the people were
smoking in the casino and I thought to myself what a great ploy, allow the
suckers to indulge in an addiction that is banned in most places so as to make
them feel more comfortable whilst you get them hooked on another addiction. On the fist floor were the gaming tables,
roulette, poker, dice etc., but surprisingly most of the table were closed but
then it was a weeknight so business might have been slow. Anyway, I soaked up the atmosphere for about
fifteen minutes and left not having put a penny, or should I say cent, in any
of the machines. As an aside, a few days
later, I was in Figueira da Foz, which I will come onto later, and as I walked
through the town I came across the casino with a queue of suckers all lined up
outside waiting for the doors to open so they could go in and get their
fix. Some people never learn! On Tuesday I decided to take the Metro into
Oporto. This was a trip I had been looking
forward to for some time because I have always wanted to visit some of the old
port houses there. Oporto is located on
the river Douro but unusually it is not a place recommended for visiting
yachts. There are no marinas as such and
moorings along the river front are very limited, mostly reserved for local
businesses, so yachts are not that welcome.
That said, when I saw the river flowing for myself with the strong
current and unpredictable eddies I decided that I had made the right decision
to moor elsewhere and take the Metro in.
It would not have been a good place to moor a small yacht. The City is divided in two by the river
Douro. On the north side is the City
itself, a culturally diverse area with plenty to do and look at, a good long weekends
worth. The south side of the river is
where the Port business started and grew into the huge industry it is
today. It is home to the many port
houses that produce port and has also become a bit of a tourist attraction. As I sat on the north side of the river on
the balcony of a bar just under the Ponte Luís I bridge, I looked over to the
south side and could see all those names that had become so familiar to me over
the years of looking after the wine cellars of a company in London. As I looked at the names Taylors, Dows,
Grahams, Quinta do Noval and so on, I realised I was in my Mecca made even
better because in the background the bar was playing Pink Floyd on the sound
system. Really, does life get any better
than this? I finished my beer and
decided I would have a trip around Taylors.
I booked the 3.30 pm English tour and with an hour to spare I had a
little wander around the area to soak up the atmosphere. It was only a little wander as well because
all the port houses where built on a bloody great hill. During my time as custodian of the cellar in
London I mentioned I learned a great deal about wines in general and port
specifically because a large part of the cellar I looked after was port. But to actually be in the place where it is
produced was just fantastic. The
vineyards and the wine production itself takes place much further up the Douro
Valley about a hundred miles or so. Once
the wine has been made it is transported down to the port houses in Oporto to
be matured and made into one of the types of port we know, Vintage, Late
Bottled Vintage (sometimes known as Ruby), or Tawny. There is also a white port produced, which is
not very popular in the UK but is drunk as an aperitif on the continent. Of the first three I mentioned they are each
treated differently which gives them their individual characteristics. For example, LBV is matured for about six to
seven yeas in large barrels and I do mean large barrels, because it is
important to preserve the colour, ruby red, and for the wine not to take on
much flavour from the barrels. Therefore
you want as little of the wine to be in contact with the barrel as
possible. In fact, Taylors has one of
the largest maturing barrels in the world holding 100,000 litres of wine or
just a good weekends worth, as Bobby would say.
On the other hand with Tawny port the intention is to change the colour
and flavour slightly so wine destined to become a Tawny port is matured in much
smaller barrels so more of the wine is in contact with the wood taking on the
characteristic of the wood itself. A
vintage port is different again and vintages do not occur every year. A very specific set of circumstances during
the growing of the grapes must come together to produce a wine of such quality
that in the eyes of the producer makes it unique and can be “Declared” a
vintage. In this case the wine bottled
soon after it is made so the maturing process takes place in the bottle rather
than in a barrel. Vintage ports will
last for decades in the bottle if stored under the right conditions and are a
delight to drink. In fact the cost of the tour included three tastings a
chilled white port, a LBV and of course a Tawny. Now if I asked you how much I paid for the
tour and three tastings what would you say, £10 would be value for money
wouldn’t it? I suppose you could even go
to £15 and still say it was a reasonable deal.
Heck if such tours were available in London they would cost a lot more
than that. No, I paid 5€ about £3.50,
incredible or what! But after the tour I
did indulge a little, am afraid I just couldn’t help myself. There was on offer a tasting of a Taylors
Single Harvest 1964, not exactly a Vintage as such but still a very good wine
so I just had to have a glass didn’t I.
Sorry, what was that, how much did it cost! Well it was very much cheaper that the 165 year
old Single Harvest on offer at 100€ a glass.
I did manage to resist that although there was a moment, albeit brief, when
I waivered slightly. A funny thing happened to me on the way home form the
forum! Always a good start to any
anecdote don’t you think, although in this case it was on the way home from the
Metro station. I wasn’t sure if I should
put this in my blog but I set out to give a true account of my adventures good
or bad so here goes. Before I tell what
happened I would like to tell another story just to illustrate how sometime you
can be so absorbed in your own little world that you just miss the tell-tell
signs of the situation before you, however street smart you think you are. Ann and I were invited to dinner one evening
at a private club called Blacks. Now,
this was at a time in my life when my work was becoming all consuming and at
times pretty stressful and my mind was usually concentrating on some work
related matter. Ann was busy during the afternoon so she agreed to meet me there
at 7.30 pm along with our other friends.
I had never been to Blacks before and it was in an area of London that I
didn’t know very well so being a good little soldier I arrived early to recce
the place so I knew where it was. That
done I had about three quarters of an hour to kill before meeting everyone so I
thought I would go and have a pint. I
looked around but every pub I saw was packed full with people queuing at the
bar to get a drink it would take ages to get served. After a while I found a small pub that looked
empty and seized on my chance without a moments hesitation. I walked in and went straight up to the bar
and ordered a pint not really taking note of my surroundings. I had just taken hold of the glass and was raising
it up to my lips when this man sidled up beside me and said “Hello ducks,
haven’t seen you in here before”. My
hand froze in mid air with the glass just in front of my lips and with my head
kept perfectly still my eyes looked around the room and saw that there were
only men in the pub and some of them were dressed pretty strangely at
that. It suddenly dawned on me that I
had missed all the obvious signs and had inadvertently strayed into a gay
bar. Now, I have nothing against gay men
at all but it just isn’t my scene so not wishing to be rude I took one long sip
of beer and replied “No mate, this is my first time here and probably my last
if you get my drift”. He sidled off to
some corner and I quickly finished my pint and left. Well you didn’t think I was going to leave a
pint behind did you! So, back to the original story. I had just arrived back from Oporto and was
walking back to the boat from the Metro station. I had had a lovely day in Oporto, imbibed of
a few ports, well while in Rome etc., and was reflecting on how good life was
when I was stopped in the street by this old lady. She was jabbering away in Portuguese so I
had no idea what she was saying but by the way she was rubbing her thumb and
forefinger together I knew it had to do with the exchange of money somewhere
along the line for some goods or services yet to be agreed. At first I thought she was just begging but
then she started gesturing with her hand and it looked as though she was trying
to sell me a toothbrush? She was obviously
getting frustrated that the message wasn’t getting through to me so in one last
final bit to make herself understood she suddenly grabbed my crouch with one
had while pointing at her mouth with the other.
The penny finally dropped and I understood the service she was
offering. There was a moment of complete
silence between as we both looked at each other. Me, thinking how the hell could I have missed
a situation that was so blatantly obvious, and her, I expect, in the hope of
walking away from the encounter with some cash in her hand. The silence was finally broken when I burst
out laughing. Not a little “titter”, as
Frankie Howard would say, but a good old belly laugh I just couldn’t believe I
had not seen this coming. She soon got
the message that I had declined her kind offer and quickly walked away up the
road and disappeared around a corner. I
turned and walked in the opposite direction chuckling to myself all the way
back to the boat. Having spent nine day at Povoa de Varzim it was time
to move on and I left on Saturday 1st August with the intention of
doing the 200 miles to Lisbon in one go.
I had done the Bay of Biscay which was 300 miles so this should have be
relatively easy in comparison but there was a big difference between the two
passages. With the Biscay passage within
half a day I was well of shore out of the inshore fisheries zone which meant
much less traffic around. It also meant
I was well away from pot markers that are a nightmare for yachtsmen. These are the floating markers that lobster/crab
fishermen use to mark their pots and are usually found up to twelve miles off
shore. Get one of these wrapped around
your prop shaft and you have a serious problem.
It happened to me once on the way to Weymouth a few seasons ago and I
had a deal of a time cutting the prop free.
But on the passage to Lisbon I would be well within the twelve-mile
limit so small fishing boats and pot markers would be a real problem and so it
proved to be. It was a mixture of sailing when I could and motoring when the
wind died which it did quite often. By
morning I was feeling pretty tired because of concentrating on dodging all the
fishing boats and pot markers so I started to revise my plan. Did I really have to get to Lisbon in one
go? Why not stop at one of the other
ports along the way for a couple of days after all I still had time in
hand. I was not concerned about the fuel
consumption because I knew I had plenty of diesel and more in reserve if
needed. But there was one problem that did concern me which was the starter
motor. I had known about the problem for
some time and should have fixed it sooner but it was one of those items that
had managed to slip through the net.
Occasionally I would go to turn the engine on and nothing would happen,
not a sausage. Basically, one of the
leads attached to the starter motor was worn but by playing with it a little I
could usually get the engine started and then it would be OK for a while. The trouble was that now the problem was
becoming more frequent. On this passage
I had had to play with the lead each time I wanted to start the engine, not a
good situation if I suddenly needed to start it in an emergency. It was obvious that a repair was urgent so that
made my mind up, I would make for Figueira da Foz and spend a couple of nights
there and fix the problem. Figueira da Foz turned out to be quite a nice place
and it was a pity that I only spent a couple of days there. The pilot book said that it was an expensive
marina to stay at and when I arrived and enquired about the cost I was quoted
56€ which I took as per night but I didn’t realise the attendant in the marina
office had quoted me the price for two nights because that is how long I said I
would be staying. So £28€ a night was
not that bad after all. The town is
also another big holiday destination. To
the left of the marina was the beach area with all the usual accompanying
businesses and to the right was the old town.
One of the best features was the public market which was just across the
road from the marina selling fruit, veg, meat and fish all great quality. The day I arrived, Sunday the market was
closed but I had enough provisions aboard so it didn’t matter. After a couple of hour’s kip I went for a
walk around the town. There where a
couple of cars with loud speakers that kept circulating around the town advertising
some event. All soon became clear when I
stumbled upon the local Bull Ring outside of which stalls selling fast food and
other trinkets were beginning to set up.
It was obvious that today was Bull Fighting Day in Figueira da Foz. Now, I have been to a Bull Fight once before
in Madrid because I was curious and I think you should always try to experience
new things at least once in you life. I
have no really strong views on the matter of bull fighting as I don’t know
enough about it to make an informed opinion.
But from that one fight I did go to I knew that once was enough for me
so I decided not to go in and went back to the boat. The next day I set to and started to repair the
starter motor. Basically all I needed to
do was to undo one nut on the solenoid, splice in a new wire and reattach it to
the solenoid easy right. No, the nut had
probably never been touched since it was installed and was stuck fast. The solenoid had also been painted the same
colour as the engine so I assumed that it was all made of metal. What have I said about assumption in the
past? However, the part of the solenoid
that the nut was attached to turned out to be plastic, which over the years had
become brittle. So in my usual ham
fisted way I managed to break it trying to get the nut undone. Great, now I needed a new solenoid for a
starter motor that was 36 years old where the hell was I going to get one here.
I certainly wasn’t going to get the
problem fixed that day I thought and started to panic a little because I needed
to be in Lisbon by Sunday morning at the very latest. I have a contact in the UK who specializes in
my type of engine and I get all my spares from him so I knew I could get hold of
a solenoid but it would take time and money to get one here and time was
limited. My decision to stop over in
Figueira da Foz was now not looking so cleaver after all. When I had walked around the town the day
before I had noticed an engineers shop just outside the marina so I went to see
it they could help. The young owner or
manager spoke perfect English, even on technical matters, which was really
helpful. I explained the situation to
him and he understood completely. In
fact on the floor right in front of his desk was a brand new starter motor with
the solenoid sitting on top. Unfortunately,
it was the wrong type and was of no use to me.
He explained that he could not help me because firstly he didn’t have
the correct part and secondly he was busy for the next couple of days. But he did give me the details of a garage
that had some specialist engineers and if I took the starter motor there they
might be able to help me. I removed the
starter motor from the engine, a surprisingly simple task, and wrapped it up
ready to take to the garage. It was now
12.30 pm and the garage would not be open until 2.30 pm so it was looking less
and less likely that the problem would be resolved that day. I was waiting outside the garage at 2.30 pm
when it opened up for the afternoon trade.
I explained the problem to the first chap there who, as it turned out
specialized in repairing starter motors.
This time however, he did not understand a word of English and of course
I don’t speak a word of Portuguese. We
Brits are so lazy when it comes to learning other languages. Anyway, he disappeared for a few moments and
returned clutching a box in his hand. He
placed it on the counter in front of me opened it and took out a brand new
replacement solenoid exactly like mine.
That was the up side but on the down side he kept pointing to another
part of the starter motor indicating that there was an additional problem. I didn’t know what he was talking about but
just then the young chap from the marina I had spoken to earlier walked into
the garage just by chance. He very kindly offered to interpret for us and soon
the problem was clear. It seems that at the
at the end of the spindle which the cog from the starter motor is thrown
forward on when it engages the flywheel on the main engine, there should have
been a ring attached that stops the cog from flying too far forward. It was this that was missing but the good
news was it could easily be fixed. Over
36 year of wear and tear it must have broken up and is now laying somewhere at
the bottom of the engine. The engineer
said if I were to return a 5 pm the job would be done and when I returned it
was. I gave the engineer a drink, paid
the bill and returned to the boat to finish the job. By 7 pm the starter motor was reinstalled, new
wiring fitted and now the engine starts first time every time. So what seemed to be a disastrous delay at
first turned out to be quite a simple job.
Its nice when things just fall into place like that. As a mark of appreciation, I drop a bottle of
wine off to the first engineer who had put me onto the garage in the first
place. He looked a little surprised at
first but when I explained that without his help I would probably have been
running around Figueira da Foz for days trying to get the problem fix he gladly
accepted my token. The next day I set sail for Lisbon another 24-hour
passage. The weather was good and I had
between 12 and 15 knots of wind on the beam for most of the day, which made for
good sailing. Over night the wind steadily dropped until I had to put the
engine on at around 5 am. By then the
sea was like a mirror without a breath of wind to beak the surface. As dawn began to break I was just off the
point at Cascais about to enter the river Tagus and make my way to Lisbon and
the marina I had booked into both about eleven miles upriver. Unfortunately, I had arrived about two hours
into the ebb tide, not good planning.
Eleven miles might not seem a great deal but with a two or three knots
of tide running against me progress was painfully slow. It took a further four hours to reach the Marina
Parque das Nações and that is where I am now, laid up in Lisbon until
the end of the month. I have to return
to the UK for a family wedding and by the time you read this I will be at
home. I will write more about Lisbon on
my return once I have had the opportunity to explore the city a little more. But for now I will sign off and wish you all
fair winds. Bye for now. Signing off Ted City of Oporto looking at the north side Bloody accordionist are everywhere LBV maturing in the large barrels The 100,000 litre barrel at Taylors Note the smaller barrels for the Tawny port. The road just outside the marina at Povoa de Varzim. Note the RV’s. There were even more the next day. |