Lat: 39:03.1. N : Long: 027:58.1 W. Wednesday, 2nd July, 2014 at anchor in Vila da Praia, Graciosa.

Sulana's Voyage
Alan and Sue Brook
Sun 6 Jul 2014 22:18
 

Lat: 39:03.1. N : Long: 027:58.1 W.

Wednesday, 2nd July, 2014 at anchor in Vila da Praia, Graciosa.
 
We separated from "Resting Goose" for a few days, as they took the Dodgsons off to visit Horta, and, the following day, we went off in the other direction, towards the Northernmost, small Island of the Central Azorean Group, Graciosa.
 
There were very  few people living on Graciosa, and it felt very much like a non-tourist stop place indeed. The only people to be seen were either Governent officials, like the Postman, or just folk busy talking, fishing, sunbathing or simply playing after school on the small, dark sand 'praia'. Occasionally one came across small family groups hanging out red, mossy-like seaweed to dry in the sun on their outhouse roofs.
 
We could not find a single restaurant to eat out at in Vila, but the GNR (Guardia Nacional Republicana) still needed to fill out our clearance in form, albeit very politely and simply.
 
We all hiked up to the Caldeira at the highest point of the surrounding land and then descended into the very mouth of their famous active volcano, to visit the Furna de Xenofre. At the bottom of the crater is a large cave created by the previous eruptions and lava flows. In the cave is a small lake with a rowing boat on it and a small mud hole that bubbles (just  like in Rotorua in NZ). It slowly steams away, sending up various noxious gases into the atmosphere, including Co2 and 222 Rn, as well as Sulphur. There were numerous gas monitoring stations set around the cave, making sure there was not a repeat of an earlier accident that now prevented one from rowing across the lake in the dinghy, when two visitoirs were overcome and sadlly died. Climbing back out of the caldeira htrough the road tunnel that now simplifies entry, we then hiked all around the mountain, getting good island coastline views, but not too exciting otherwise. Nelius and Jason briefly explored a large lava tunnel that started by the roadside where a collapsed roof portion was visible in some farmer's backyard. They then also went into the cave at the Furna da Sta Maria Enamorada, where yet another lava tunnel went right through the mountainside and came out back in the caldeira. Alan was feeling the pace of the hike and minimised his interest in side attractions to just the hike around the caldeira and back to the harbour, reckoning that approx. 20kms for the day was quite enough, thank you!
 
Eventually we walked back to the harbour past rows and rows of stone walls, covered in darting dark green lizards, past horses, mules and donkeys, all desperately looking at us to give them some more tether length, so they could reach the green grass that remained tantalisingly out of reach. Their small grazing fields were so tiny they could quickly eat up all there was there to offer.
 
There is more to see in Graciosa, for sure, especially if you are into cooler water scuba diving, but we were not realy aware of what it was, as, unlike other islands, there was no tourist information to collect and read in Vila da Praia. So we decided not to wait there too much longer, as the visible sights were less spectacular than others and we wanted to witness the famous bull running and festivals of the next island of the chain, Terceira.