Lat: 38:40.8. N : Long: 028:12.1 W. Sunday, 29th June, 2014 in Velas Marina, Sao Jorge.

Sulana's Voyage
Alan and Sue Brook
Sun 6 Jul 2014 21:48

Lat: 38:40.8. N : Long: 028:12.1 W.

Sunday, 29th June, 2014 in Velas Marina, Sao Jorge.
 
Unfortunately, unable to stay any longer in Horta, to meet up with Joachim & Rosa, the Owners of "Mariela" as we had hoped, we collected the last of our laundry and headed out on a mission to keep another appointment, to meet up with David & Annie Chatterton, and Torril and Guy Dodgson, on board the other West Mersea yacht in the Azores, "Resting Goose". They were staying in the neighbouring marina of Velas, on nearby Sao Jorge island, within easy sight of both Faial and Pico. David had used his extensive local contacts to secure us the last (or only) remaining berth for a 17 metre yacht for us. Only a very short 34 miles away, this was easily done as a short day hop under motor, as winds were very light indeed.
 
Velas was also a lovely little marina, well served, very cheap rates and provided with superb facilities, including smart, clean showers and a modern laundry facility, all with water and electricity thrown in for free, too! As we arrived a local festival was just concluding and we just managed to get the last free lunches of the day, with fresh 'Lapas' (Limpets) and a big bowl of fish stew. All this was provided by the local community as part of their celebration of the month of the Espiritu Santo (Holy Spirit). Their hospitality was humbling, quite frankly.
 
We went to sleep very peacefully that night, listening to the hundreds of Cory's Shearwaters returning home in the dark, whistling, cooing, cawing and making the weirdest of indescribable sounds, just like so many parakeets on an excess of sugar drinks.
 
Sao Jorge was lovely. A long, volcanic strip of an island, often covered with cloud. David had to drive very, very slowly along the switchback mountain roads, in heavy, dense cloud-like fog, on our return trip from visiting the North-Eastern end of the island. We stopped along the way to admire the fabulous scenery and visit the Canada family's local traditional cheese factory,. which was situated in a large family house, near the church, in a small village called Sant Amaro. Local island cheeses in the Azores are delicious and it is well worth tasting all the different versions that each island produces. Sao Jorge cheese has a slightly stronger flavour and is a bit like a better young Gouda.
 
The harbour master in Velas was once again  incredibly friendly, helpful and likeable. Proud to be in his position and enjoying  his job as a 'people person' was more important to him than wanting to take up the offered Management position he was offered, which was to run more Azorean marinas. The Velas marina water was so clean you could easily see the whole bottom. Annie and Torril went for a swim in one end of it and said it was gorgeous!
 
We watched a local man sitting on the steps down by the sea front at Ponta do Topo and, in just a very few minutes, as we watched him hand casting a small line into the swell near a large cave entrance, he pulled out no less than 15 large grey Trigger Fish as easy as one-two-three. Easy pickings!
 
Everybody in Sao Jorge had time to stop and chat, albeit some were clearly working hard with their cattle most of the time. WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU SAW A YOUNG MAN ON A THREE-LEGGED STOOL, SITTING IN A FIELD, HAND-MILKING 5 COWS ONE BY ONE?