Journey to The Drowned Island.
Stream
Darrell Jackson and Sarah Barnes
Sun 9 Feb 2014 20:58
After an early breakfast, well for us, we managed to get away before 10am, heading North for Anegada, a journey of about 13 miles out into the Atlantic. A beam reach with a force 5 wind, so Darrell and Dave were in their element as we were doing 8+ knots all the way! Thus it was a quicker than expected journey.
Anegada is set apart from the rest of the Virgin Islands because not only is it further away than the other islands but it is not volcanic. It is a flat island formed from coral and limestone. It was quite a way into the sail before we could see it and the first glimpses are of palm trees seemingly jutting out of the sea. It is 11 miles long, with white sandy beaches, and is completely surrounded by reefs. Horseshoe reef which extends over 10 miles to the south east of it has claimed over 300 known ships, which provides excitement and adventure for scuba diving enthusiasts. The numerous coral heads, tricky currents that surround the island along, with the difficulty in identifying landmarks and subsequent reef areas make Anegada an exciting and adventurous destination for yachtsmen as well!
Approaching us we saw some unidentified flying objects just above the water, which caused much discussion. As we got closer we realised they were kite surfers following a catamaran from Anegada on route to Virgin Gorda.
Unfortunately, all the mooring buoys in the bay were taken, which meant anchoring in water that was less than one metre under the keel. Also made difficult by the wind which was gusting up to 25 knots, coral heads near by and the proximity of other boats. It took three attempts to get the anchor to set properly and we put out about 40 metres of chain. Then it was ashore for a much needed walk as we had not been ashore properly for nearly a week. After we had investigated the beach side restaurants and decided where we would eat that night, based on who could provide the famous lobster, but also cater for our resident veggie, we set off in search of Flamingoes. Of course at this point it rained in typical monsoon style and we were all soaked through.
As Anegada is so flat and has no prominent features and we were walking along its concrete road it was not the most satisfying of adventures. However, there is a lagoon inside the island, surrounded by scrub and mud flats, making it difficult to get a good view. We took advantage of the high point on the road; a metre high bridge over a river, to look across the lagoon and see the flamingo flock. Bright pink specks in the distance, we are assured that they are real and were relocated from a zoo and have flourished on the lagoon.
We were relieved that we had booked a table under cover for dinner as it was raining before we left and although we managed to get there in the dry it started raining again as we sat down. It was strange to watch a party on ten French yachties arrive in matching full wet weather gear.
We had preordered our meal in the afternoon and although the service was pleasant and efficient we were surprised to be informed that the conch fritter appetisers had run out. So the carnivores decided to have lobster fritters, despite having lobster for their main course. However, this was not to be, as we were then informed that all appetisers were off for the evening! So after a quick discussion they decided to push the boat out and all have whole lobster instead of the half they had preordered, while Sarah has a creamy pasta dish.
The lobsters, when they arrived straight from the barbecue, were huge. Anegada is famous for the quality of its spiny lobsters and they export them throughout the world. These lobsters have no big pincers and look like overgrown crayfish. They were very tasty and the meal was thoroughly enjoyed. We managed to get back to the boat in the dry and found it fairly easily amongst the fifty other boats in the bay. However, it was a very windy and got stronger over night. Thankfully, Darrell had swam out to check the anchor had set well during the afternoon, so he at least could sleep soundly!