Anguilla Days
Stream
Darrell Jackson and Sarah Barnes
Mon 20 Jan 2014 15:06
Another lazy day spent on the boat, with Darrell doing little jobs, both of us reading and watching the comings and goings of other yachts. Two of the vessels didn't fit into the usual pattern. One cat seemed to be importing a host of small 'illegal immigrants' and white boxes the size of small coffins, the other was an open motor launch/fishing boat filled with people and an array of larges wrapped items on the deck and stern. It was only in the late afternoon we realised the significance of these vessels.
Both of us have spent many weekends up at Kielder helping out at the sailing club, enjoying the action, but not necessarily the weather. We noticed, when we were ashore, that Sandy Ground has a sailing club and were impressed that they were out Friday evening in a small fleet of optimists. On Saturday there was a lot of activity about 9 ish in the morning on the beach by the club, coinciding with a cat arriving full of teenagers who looked like they had been partying all night. Bright orange racing marks were towed behind a dinghy out into the bay, much easier than dropping them in the lake at Kielder, as they were only in about 3 metres of water. Soon a fleet of about 40 optimists took to the water negotiating all the yachts with ease, accompanied by a few lasers and 420's. Crewed by children ranging from about 6 years old to the afore said teenagers. All speaking a variety of languages and from a range of ethnic backgrounds. They obviously were really enjoying themselves. We spent a good time watching them and the turtles who were swimming around the boat. The boats were out for a couple of hours in the morning, well off shore, racing around a changing course. The race control boat was a nicely appointed 40' yacht and a few inflatable dinghies scooted about as safety boats for the occasional capsize or tow back to the beach. After a short lunch they were out again for more racing, which they seem to take very seriously.
About 4pm all was finished and the prizes giving was going well by the sounds of the cheering and jumping off the jetty. We then watched in amazement as two heavily laden dinghies returned to the cat and twelve children climbed aboard, with only one missing his leap and ending in the water. As the cat up anchored all was revealed; on the coach roof and the foredeck were stacked all their boats and off they sailed. Followed by the motor launch, which had the lasers and several optimists lashed around the decks. After further investigation we found the cat was heading back to St Martin, the motor launch St Barth's, as this had been a leg of the inter-island competition; there was even a team from Puerto Rico. The Anguillan hosts remained partying and playing basketball at the Anguilla youth sailing club, which is mainly funded by local donations, so that these young sailors are on scholarships. It seems safe to say the future of sailing on the island is looking good.
Sunday 19th January
We have noted the quality of the roads here and the fact that speed bumps and dips are clearly signposts. Another difference from the other islands is the state of the cars. Few have the usual scrapes and dents that we have come to associate with driving in the Caribbean. In fact on Anguilla there is a vast number of newer and higher end cars, including several Bentleys that we have seen. This seems to fit with how Anguilla promotes itself as the holiday destination for the discerning rich. The resorts and villas are posh, but quiet low key and exclusive. However, there is a lot of unfinished building, including the smaller homes that the locals build themselves which appear to be ongoing projects. Some areas are looking unkempt and litter is noticeable at the edge of roads here, which is different from everywhere else we have visited so far. We can attest to this as we undertook a three hour hike along the Anguillan Heritage Trail, which we only discovered later was meant to be done by car, as we were unable to get a leaflet as the office had run out. We have only done about a third of it (in the three hours) on the way across to Rendezvous Bay on the east coast on the island, the rest will be completed when we get to The Valley tomorrow!
Rendezvous Bay, 1.5 miles of white fine sand and azure blue sea. Waves crashing onto the beach as you wander along it. At one end there are some Moroccan style white villas, which are part of a resort but we went in the opposite direction away from the activities and built up area towards a shack.
This turned out to be a diamond. 'Dune Preserve' the coolest bar in the Caribbean! Made out of drift wood, shells and old boats by its owner, it has personality by the bucket load. There was a live entertainment from a singer with a guitar and the fish was on the grill. Not many people had ventured this far when we arrived but there was an air of expectancy. The staff were friendly and fun. The music was good. It had a relaxed atmosphere, with people wandering around. It was everything we would want in a Caribbean beach bar. The furniture was all made from reclaimed beach related items and driftwood. It was a warren which demanded to be explored, which was encouraged as it had many different areas with small bars made out of boats. Seating in different areas upstairs and on the beach. Round the walls were pictures of cultural heroes and the bar owner Bankie Banx, who suddenly got up and started to play and sing with the singer. He lived up to his tag: "The Caribbean Bob Dylan" especially his harmonica playing. It was a surprise and a real treat for us and the dozen of people there. Another, guest performer joined the singer on stage to duet on a reggae version of 'Somewhere over the rainbow' and a Sam Cook number, but we couldn't work out what he was called. A great way to spend a Sunday afternoon, much better than planning lessons and marking! Thankfully, the walk back to Road Bay took just over an hour as Darrell found the shortcut.
We want to come back for the Moonsplash music festival that Bankie Banx runs but fear it will be too popular.
It is strange, I still have not acquired my sea legs as I wobble and fall around the boat, but I no longer have land legs, as on land I seem to wobble, rock and lurch as I trip. No wonder my body is covered in a pattern of unexplained bruises. Perhaps I am this clumsy normally and don't notice. I will just have to blame it on having such small feet! (This is Sarah writing by the way!)