The Saintes - Sark in the Caribbean?

Starcross Fair Log
Ross Wilson
Wed 2 Feb 2011 01:45
Tuesday 01/02/11
Position 15:48.2N  61:32.6W
Plan: Sail north along Guadeloupe west coast and on to Antigua
 
We slipped our mooring off Roseau Dominica on Monday 31st at 0715 under sail, being seen off by a friendly turtle in whose domain we were apparently located.  We soon had to motor to make reasonable headway up the western coast, the high hills providing shelter from the easterly Trade Winds.  We passed the cruise ship Silver Cloud disembarking its passengers for day tours ashore and providing a welcome boost to the island's economy.  The spectacular natural and unspoilt beauty has to be savoured and admired - there are 7 potentially active volcanoes.  (Dominica is a former British Colony, now an independent nation.  It has, however, reminders of years under French rule; eg place names).  We passed Prince Rupert Bay at the north west corner, a spectacular sheltered spot and another favourite stopping point with over 20 yachts seen to be at anchor.
 
Once we cleared the norther tip, we experienced a steady 15 knot east north easterly breeze which allowed a pleasant sail across the 15 mile-wide Dominica Channel leaving the easterly Iles de Saintes, Terre de'en Haut, to port before turning south into its large sheltered bay off the small town of Bourg des Saintes.  As you may have guessed, the islands are French and have been since they were colonised in the 17th Century.  Perhaps uniquely no slaves were imported and there remaimns a strong link to the north of France.  It also benefits from European Union project funds.  It feels like a French version of the Channel Island Sark and located in the Caribbean - charming (and the sea is warmer for bathing!).    
 
There Jerome provides a water hose conveniently located on a "water buoy" in 4 metres and a quick radio call turns it on - 30 Euros for as much as you want.  We refilled our 3 tanks with 300 litres before anchoring amongst over 30 other yachts of all nationalities in the clear warm waters.  It was too late to complete Customs and Immigration formalities (fermee a cinq heures) and these waited until the following morning (Tuesday), the yellow Q flag remained flying all night. 
 
The main task for today was to clean the grey water tank and service its pump (water from the basin and shower is collected in an onboard tank, allowing discharge at a convenient and environmentally acceptable location).  Probably put off for too long, increased on board showering had finally caused the pump to fail and action was urgently required.  We now have a very clean, sweet smelling and working installation.  We look forward to exploring this pleasant location, possibly on hired motor scooters, and experiencing some French cuisine.  More to follow...
 
Ross, Al, Alex