13. Bystrinsky Park: day 4:
"Kamchatka Peninsula" by Bike and Kayak
Tue 31 Jul 2012 06:54
I awoke to the normal fog, but rain was in the air, and as the fog partially lifted, I could see black clouds and probably rain in the distant mountains. I did think how probably different my cycle would have been if there had been heavy rain just before I arrived. The tundra quickly moves to a slushy mess with rain.
With the threat of rain and the route back to the Ranger station a known and easily achievable in the day, I decided to leave camp early with a view to really enjoying Nature and the vistas, hopeful that my final day may bring that elusive bear viewing. I chose to not use my "Hey bear" warning cry, cycle as quite as possible and hope for the best. I was really looking forward to the river crossing and the endpoint reward of the Ranger's banya was the camp reward.
The trip went well, a great cycling experience, but nothing spectacular, and sadly no bear nor antelope seen. The river level had risen marginally, probably from the mountain rainfall, but I proudly crossed it in one shot with my full back pack on as well. It's all about technique and belief in oneself hey! The bike did take a big dunking, and one of the panniers took on water from an unnoticed tear hole picked up somewhere on the trip. Nothing serious though.
With the rain clouds having caught up with me, I just had time for a very special reflective lunch and coffee at the river side. It's all to easy on ones own to take for granted the significance and uniqueness of solo adventure. The risks, the endurance, the lonely struggles, dealing alone with one's fears and life challenges, and the simple accomplishment of be able to enjoy my own company for the time alone. Reflecting and giving unbiased credit where credit is due is one of the harder things thee solo adventure faces. In hindsight it all seems easier than before the journey begins, but I must realise that's part of the personal growth journey, and being solo the growth is sometimes traumatic, but in hindsight very grounding.
My strangely soft, and new for me, adventure goal had been achieved. I hadn't had any big mishaps, I'd survived 4 days and nights totally alone, in a, deemed dangerous, high density bear area, seen some great nature offerings and scaringly, I'd learnt a lot more by my inner drivings in the context of the big conquests I've accomplished, and how the smaller one's fit in place. Finally I'd survived some of the harshest mosquito attacks, I've ever experienced, coming away lots of evidence of battle conflict, but still with a smile on my face, and the spirit of 'Simply Adventure' still burning strong within. That was good time down at he river, sort of closure for the alone wilderness time in Bystrinsky park, and I set off in light rain for the short ride to the Rangers hut...
Jenga (we took time to learn each others' names) the Ranger was almost waiting to welcome me back. Big smile on his face he had a covered space ready for my bike, and then led me to his private hut. Gee, perfect and warm inside, complete with wood burning stove in his bedroom, and a small kitchen, with a basic table two chairs. He made me really welcome offering his single pot stew and tea for lunch. Having just had lunch I politely just accepted tea, and he suggested I add the fresh blueberry compote he had ready on the table. He had no guests and I could feel he wanted to share and bond. He knew maybe a dozen English words, and me not many more Russian ones, but the desire and intent from both of us to communicate was all that counted. With my Kindle dictionary, pen and paper we spent the whole afternoon getting to know each other, and solving some of the world's problems. He was 58, just two years in the ranger position, previously a profession hunter. He is a bit of a loner, and obviously loves the wild, spending the tough winter there as well. His wife lives in their house in Esso, and he goes back 1 day every six or so weeks, and they have two grown up kids studying at university in St Petersburg.
We had long moments of silence but somehow there was no pressure to talk and an easy, relaxed feeling of kindred spirit-ness.
He showed me the 'bedroom' above the kitchen and as I can see was a real personal offer, suggested I use it overnight. I say bedroom , but it was just a room with a mat on the floor, but it was heated from the kitchen wood stove through vents in the floor. It was 'perfect' for me, as I just rolled at my sleeping bag and pillow case filled with 'all' my clothes.
A mother and son guest arrived by vehicle, for two nights in the 'teepee' and so he had to settle them in. Fortunately they requested thee banya too and so after them I had it all to myself. Basically a type of sauna, this one wood fired and then a hand bucket cold shower system. The location, circumstance and the banya statue within the Siberian way of life took it from an ordinary experience to very special.
Dinner was a strange affair. We each brought our own ingredients and cooked our own meals, just sharing dining together in the small cozy kitchen, with rain now teaming down outside.
As he spoke more, I started sensing, maybe wrongly, that hunting over the years, had serious affected the wildlife, and my no wildlife experience could be attributed to that. The bears are definitely fearful of humans, and do all they can to avoid contact.
During his alone time he an amateur oil painting artist, and in one of those difficult to deal with sentimental moments, he presented me with one of his pieces of a wild Kamchatkan mushroom, in the form of a extra large, framed fridge magnet! A special gesture, I was touched, only wondering where on or in my bicycle it will go!
Like true men from the bush, we retired to bed early with a deal that I wouldn't disturb him before 8am, and we'd have breakfast together, before I left.
I went to bed feeling holistically content, this time with Jenga had just rounded off a very diverse and rewarding 4 days.
It poured with rain in the night, and I thanked my lucky stars for my timing, although I knew I still had 10km's of hilly road that would be 'interesting' after the rain. The thought of what the road in the park would be like now was one I didn't think worth spending time answering, and just thanked my lucky stars again!
I woke quite early to very light rain, and decided to go for a walk and check out the river level. It was nice to back down there one last time, and yes the level had risen a bit more, but nothing really to affect the river crossing.
Jenga and I had our individual breakfasts together, and I sensed both of us knew we had enjoyed a strangely special time together, and shook hands with huge warmth and mutual respect. I cleated into my pedals but even on the flat before the big hill it became clear that this 10km was going to be treacherous, like trying to ride on ice. The soil is very clay like, and takes a certain amount of water and then gives off the is very slippery slime layer. At times on the push up the hill the bike and I slid back as a complete unit. Slowly does it, just get back in one piece.
I came off twice, and then the third time was really painful: I landed with the camera in my shorts front pocket, being driven by the ground into the middle and deepest muscle tissue of my right quad. The pain was excruciating and an immediate lameness set in. I still had 5km to go and was mad at myself for the fall, even though I wasn't going fast and didn't do anything obviously wrong. These were just real tough conditions. Anyway, I ended up literally limping back, arriving in Esso with both me and the bike covered in mud, and y leg having stiffened up as the obvious internal bruising expanded. From leaving the ranger station I'd had my heart set on cleaning up in the thermal bath at the end of the village road, but now with a sore leg, the thermal bath was even more of a motivation.
Well, all my luck, today is the day they have chosen to drain the pool for cleaning or whatever, so my plan is floored. Only option is down to the Bystraya River that runs swiftly through the village for first a serious bike wash then a serious Howard wash in the chilly water. Gee, did I dream about the thermal bath solution! Anyway no crying now, I had to bee in the most presentable form for my landlady friend.. I needed her room solutiion badly, and probably for a few days to give my real sore leg some rest time!
Next posting is for my 3 days recovery in Esso