10. Bystrinsky Park: Day 1
"Kamchatka Peninsula" by Bike and Kayak
Sat 28 Jul 2012 06:51
After sourcing a final few food items, by 11h30 I was champing at the bit to leave on my 4 day adventure into the park. It was time for a final breakfast at my landlady's café, and then goodbye to my 'strange' friend!
As I told her I was leaving, I sensed our trust relationship wasn't as strong as I thought, as she asked me if I'd left the towel behind?? This hardly being a big ticket item, barely a basin hand towel, but it must have been important for her to close things off with me! It was time to forget all this 'human stuff' and go and connect deeply, alone with nature!
My goal was to see whether I could make it to Ichinsky volcano, (the highest in the park) and back in 4 days. Given the warnings I'd got from the park office, I set out with more of an exploring / 'journey' mindset, rather than 'I have to make it to the volcano at all costs', goal orientated mindset. I've done so many of the latter, that I'm quite enjoying this freer go as you feel mode. It's quite challenging for a goal orientated person like me, but I've sense over the last few years how this change 'within' is happening! I'm trying to work out if it's part 0f aging, maturing, or just that I've 'done' the big goals, so what's the point of taking on the pressure of the smaller 'conquest goals', just enjoy 'the being' of the wilderness experience. This Siberia trip with it's hard, remote, aloneness is exposing this debate table for me. Quite interesting stuff, man! More on this as the 3 months evolve......
The weather was mild temperature and partly cloudy as I left the village boundary, and entered the open tundra. It felt good, free, and the bike light and much more lively, with just the two panniers. "Simply Adventure", I shouted aloud with excitement. I was soon in deep forest on a track that was surprisingly good, clearly uses by the small, 6 wheeler, all terrain vehicles. There was also evidence of horse use, and I was making good progress. A few times I had to dismount because of impossible mud, and then a long steep hill, with poor traction forced a 'walk of shame'! About halfway up, there was an excursion to a panoramic view point, and I took the opportunity to enjoy the orientating perspective. Lots of volcanic mountain ranges, separated by sizeable rivers, and open tundra planes dotted with lakes.
It was 10km into the first major milestone, the rangers hut, just before a big river crossing, and from the crest of the hill I could see the hut, far below. A steep twist downhill got the adrenaline going as I too up the challenge to 'do it as fast as possible'. Not sure whether it was a previously bicycled, challenge, probably not on a pannier bike, so no matter what I'd be the record holder! Here fun was the only goal! As I start leveling out for the flat straight to the ranger station I see a 6 wheeler ATV with five people staring disbelieving at me approaching! As I arrive, they can't wait to ask all the questions.... They are two, mid 50's couples, locals from Esso, and the 10km jaunt to the Ranger's hut is their Sunday fun. The 5th person is the Ranger, and he is more laid back but quietly welcoming. After 'all' the questions have been asked and answered, the locals are clearly awestruck about this wild African in their playground....and the real surprise was that I was their age, not some wild spirited youngster, the gave me the "Good luck" parting and they motored off. It was now just me and the Ranger! He was interested in my plans, and seemed to think bicycling would be possible, indicating through body actions that I'd have to get off and push now and again, put latching onto my sense of adventure, thought that wouldn't be a problem. Passing the kindred spirit test, he then offered to show me around, and this was more than a ranger's hut... A large guest 'tent', sort of made like the native 'teepee' equivalents, complete with deer skin quilts and a centre rustic, open fireplace. Then looking out over the river out towards the park, was a sizeable guest banya, that all looked pretty inviting. The ranger offered me a stayover, and I had to think twice, but my goal was clear, and I had to decline and move on to the more alone, challenge option, saying I'd stay a night on my return!
I asked him how many 'touriste' were out in the park and he said "Niet", telling me that they almost all just come to the Ranger's hut, visit the river, but very few take on the river crossing, if forms a great natural barrier to the less adventurous, so the park is all to myself.
He showed me where the best place to cross the river was, and indicated it would a about waste deep at the deepest point... OK, an immediate challenge, never mind the terrain, and potential bears the other side!
Without the bike the 100m fast flowing river crossing would be a fairly straightforward trip, but adding the bike and panniers, added another dimension of challenge! I decided to head across first with just my backpack, and try and figure out the exact best path, to make it easier with the bike. Well the river bed rocks were extremely slippery with just cleated cycling shoes, and as the water got deeper I lost footing more seriously. I didn't want to down with the back pack so returned to collect my walking pole, attached to the bike, which would provide added stability. The water essentially come from melting snow was chilly, and I could feel that time in the water was to be minimised, and I wasn't starting off well.
With the pole things went a lot better and I made it across, sort of finding a good route, and water staying just below crutch level. Dump the pack and long pants, down to speedo to return for the bike. Pointless having pants that just increase water resistance, when they could be waiting drying! One false start where I got a third of the way across and nearly lost the bike as the full force of the river hit the whole pannier area, and the bike resisted making any across river progress and violently turned to race off the easy route downstream. I have to admit that I was a bit flustered, and my ego dented, as here I am struggling with the first river crossing hurdle, basically hardly started the real adventure. I get back to the river bank with my toes feeling decidedly frozen,, so after dumping the bike, I run on the spot to try get mire blood to these peripheries. This gives me chance to think about the river crossing dynamics and my technique. I come up with a new approach that sort of involves progressing more diagonally downstream,, almost using the force of the current to help me across, rather than fight against it. With my feet feeling a bit warmer, I set off again, and with a determined approach, and the new technique, also using the bike as a third prong walking stick, we make it across. It was a real physical battle, as the water level went above the top of the panniers, and I was thankful the important stuff was packed in sealed dry bags. In hindsight I can see pre adventure tension build up was responsible for some of this unconfident start, but the river was pretty challenging, but I felt I'd learnt a lot very quickly, and future crossing will be done with a lot more confidence