4. Asphalt road surprise lifts my spirits into Milkovo

"Kamchatka Peninsula" by Bike and Kayak
Sun 22 Jul 2012 06:30
56:41.5N 158:36.7E

Waking was a bit of a traumatic affair: A peep through the tent flap brought a familiar picture of fog, and coolness. The pictures from yesterday's road surface came vividly back, and I have to admit that motivation to get out on the bike sunk! Freedom says you don't HAVE to do anything, so I weakened and went back into my snug cocoon.

My integrity eventually got the better of me, and by 11am I was finished breakfast, packed up and on the bike actually enjoying a pretty good section of road. Same forest lined blinkers, but the surface was smoother and the 1st 10km went by pretty nicely. After that I had some really bad patches of road, with not many river distractions, and I got quite demoralised. This all wasn't what I'd imagined it to be, I was expecting to be in great scenery, with lots of wild life. To date I'd seen two foxes and two rabbits, and like a wagon workhorse, had to accept blinkers!

Someone heard my plea, as I reached the turn off to another small village, there was a bus stop and the road suddenly magically turned to new asphalt. Careful to get too excited I looked ahead at the asphalt road running up a very long gradual incline and wondered whether it would go back to gravel at the top?

It was 47 km to Milkovo, and never in my wildest dreams earlier today, would I have thought I could be their that night, but now this asphalt gave new perspective and motivation.

With a rekindled spirit I set off, to just do the best I could sand go as far as my spirit wanted...

Back to 18, even 20 km/h my whole world had changed, and it looked like there were no tricks, this asphalt went all the way to Milkovo Milkovo is supposed to be a big town, wit god infrastructure, sort of the capital of mid Kamchatka. I was very hopeful, and this was like a big carrot dangling out there in front of me as I rode. I'd originally planned 3 days to Milkovo, so all was in sync, just the mind an body to deliver this last piece.

I finally got to the 'Welcome to Milkovo' sign at 17h30, and from the ostentatious sign, all bode well! It was Sunday but as I cycled through exploring I could feel the disappointment levels rising. Not one café, bar or restaurant, and no place to stay. I asked all around, one guy looked at me as if I was mad asking for a bar in his town. I was kindly directed by following a guy in his car, to a fuel service station that had an 8 seater 'restaurant' as part of it's store! This guy told me this is the only one!

I walk in, a family of 4 just ordered their food, and it looks pretty good. The middle aged lady behind the counter, who is 'Jill of everything' and as I try and order she is stressed and irritated with my lack of Russian and foreign-ness. I go across to the table of 4 point to the father's food, but she still doesn't get it. Next thing the daughter stands up and in very good English asks me what I want to order? Hey, saved, and even some choice now. As the order is taken by the still stressed counter woman, I thank the daughter and apologise to the father for interrupting their meal. They were from Petropavlosk Kamchatka, on holiday.

The family eventually leave, my food arrives and I'm with the counter lady alone The soup is amazing, I found it's a Russian favourite called Orouska, and I compliment her for it. The main course is a good, tasty stew with pasta, and I have a bitterly cold beer to compliment it all! Gee, that was so good, and I've done 97km today, I think I'll have a repeat order! Well the woman can't believe it, and keeps thinking I must be miscomunicating. Finally she accepts and when it finally arrives, I show my appreciation and she loosens up! All the while I'm wondering where best to sleep tonight? I guess there is no doubt it's the tent, but just where will become clear after dinner. To her utter amazement I ask for one of her counter cakes for desert. I can see I've befriended her now, she is relaxed and caring, going back into the kitchen she returns with a whole lot of fresh bread neatly wrapped up and hands it to me as a parting gift. I thank her with a hug and head off to find my campsite for the night.

A short way along the main road is a school with a large overgrown playground, and the big swing gates are locked, but there is a gap big enough to get my bike through. This looks like it, schools on holiday, nobody is around, a great spot, and close to my friendly café for breakfast in the morning. I move in, hang around a bit to see if anyone notices me, before I set up tent. "All clear, go for it...!"

I'm soon tucked up in bed reflecting on a day of great accomplishment, huge highs and lows, varied experiences, and a final warm and insightful human interaction. Just as I'm about to go to sleep I hear footsteps in the park, peek out of my tent door, and there is a woman walking 25metres from my tent along the path to the school. She clearly saw my tent and chose to turn a blind eye, and pretend she hadn't. She just stared straight on ahead, apparently oblivious of my tent to her right. OK with me. I'm not here to cause trouble...If Milkovo had a spare room for me I'd rather be there!

Sleep was good that night!