Halifax Nova Scotia to Bay of Islands Newfoundland

Monday 18th July 2016

48:55.667 N. 58:52.665 W

Distance sailed 441 miles

On Monday 11th of July Hugh Vincent arrived at 13.00 as he had generously promised to drive us to provision Shelduck. Anne and Peter went with him as I was waiting for Rocky of Atlantic Electronics to check the GPS. Soon after the others had left Rocky arrived and had everything in order quickly and there was no charge. That evening we were joined for a glass of wine by Irish born Canadian Denis Linton who as a young man sailed a 27 footer single handed from Canada to Ireland. Later he cruised Ireland with his friend Hugh Vincent aboard.

>>>>>> Shelduck departed the RNSYS marina at our usual 05.30 and I set a course for George's Spot off Pope's Harbour. As we approached the waypoint she seemed to go aground in 15 meters of water. We were all shocked. She had stopped from 5 knots as you would in soft mud. After a short time we were free and up behind appeared a large, probably very sore, basking shark who may have been feeding in this relatively shallow patch. A little shaken we carried on to Molly's Cove also known as Shelter Harbour and anchored in this beautiful hurricane hole. The chart shows just one foot of water at the entrance and inside but in fact there is 5 meters as pointed out in the RNSYS/CCA pilot.

On Wednesday we weighed anchor at the usual time and managed to sail 74 miles in a south westerly to anchor in Marshall Cove Whitehead Harbour, off the pier. Next day strong winds were forecast but our usual early start allowed Shelduck round Louse Head and bear off for St. Peter's Canal before the wind had piped up to a force 6. Our transit through the canal was efficiently organised by the staff there. It was followed by a lovely sail through St. Peter's Inlet and a downwind blast across Bras d'Or Lake then through the opening bridge in the Grand Narrows and into the Great Bras d'Or which was crossed at speed to pick up a mooring at Baddeck Cape Breton Island in the lee of Kidston Island. Shortly after settling Shelduck was visited by a charming girl, Kristin Gillis, who offered us the contents of her yacht's fridge which we were happy to accept. She was going off for a while racing on her uncle's yacht. Next morning at noon I topped up our fuel and took a prearranged berth at Baddeck Marine marina. Immediately another generous person, a French/Canadian on a boat in a berth nearby offered me his 4x4 pickup for us to drive for provisions. It was very large and looked almost new so I nominated Anne as the driver. After the shopping Peter and I went to the excellent Alexander Graham Bell Museum while Anne decided to do some clothes washing. Later after a visit to the Yacht Club, where the usual Canadian Friday night gathering was in full swing, we dined nearby.

Next morning, Saturday 16th, the tide suited our 05.30 departure to take the ebb from the lake through the 20 mile narrow passage to St. Ann's Bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The first two hours was in thick fog so Shelduck just made it out of the passage as the tide turned against her and progress was slowed. Past Neil Harbour and Neil Head, round Long Point into Dingwall, another beautiful anchorage and hurricane hole. The entrance is shallow with shifting sands and has to be dredged so the buoys marking the present channel are paramount.

Sunday 16th at our usual start time there was no wind so we motored towards St Paul Island and slowed for 10 minutes to let a ship cross. This ship reminded me that I was last in these waters 53 years ago on honeymoon with Angela on the small Liner Arcadia on the Cork/Montreal/Cork route. As Shelduck crossed the northern Cabot Strait traffic separation zone I decided to press on overnight to the Bay of Islands. We rounded Cape Cormorant at midnight which is 25 miles out from the mainland, a little like the Old Head but with no light. Rounded South Head into the Bay of Islands at 10.15 left Woods Island to port and berthed at the Bay of Islands Yacht Club at 14.00. We came here to get a signal to send the blog but more importantly to get treated water for our tanks. This beautiful bay has lived up to our high expectations.