Puerto de Vita Cuba

Thursday 6th March 2014  21:04.294 N  75:57.292 W   Distance sailed 303 miles

Sunday the 2nd was a day of rest and of checking Shelduck's position in the marina. The berths are only suitable for very large yachts. The top of her stantions were level with the concrete deck so fenders were difficult to place. On Monday we went into Puerto Plata to an excellent supermarket, as good as any in Europe, with a huge range of items at half the cost. Puerto Plata has the name of being the best place in the Caribbean to provision. The security man outside had a two bore gun under his arm with a double row of bullets on the belt around his waist. Everyone seemed to have a moped and travel the streets at high speed sometimes 3 up including a young baby in arms with the parents looking about 16. No head protection of any kind, of course.

Tuesday 4th up at 05.45 to adjust Shelduck to weather in the berth so that I could exit without damaging her on the concrete deck. A naval officer was to arrive at 06.00 with our Despatcho but came at 06.30 when I had already left the berth. I took Shelduck to the fuel berth to meet him fearing entering Cuba without papers. I suggested to him that I did not owe him his 20 dollar early start bribe because he was late. Anne wanted to be kind so I handed it over. One of the reasons I had entered Ocean World was because I had read that one would not have to bribe officials there but you have to. 10 dollars to each of 4 going in and 10 dollars to two going out and 20 dollars to the navy officer if making an early start. We were instructed to hand over this money by the marina management. In other ports of entry in the Dominican Republic even larger bribes are requested, I believe.

Wind was force 4 as we exited the harbour and I was making sure to give clear room to the large breaking reef to port. We had a beautiful sail averaging 6.4 knots for the day. Shelduck passed a large fishing float in water a mile deep with another 3 miles further on off Bahia Isabela and we saw the outline of Haiti in the last of the sunlight then 32 miles to the South of the island. Shelduck then sailed through a large area of rubbish most of which was plastic bottles. Being out again in the North Atlantic Ocean from the Caribbean Sea the larger size of the waves was noticeable. One particularly large one broke over the transom on Anne's watch. This was only the third to do so since Shelduck left Portugal. She lifts very well to waves coming from aft. Many larger boats in the ARC reported many more than two breaking over the transom. Anne and I had a busy night with shipping heading for the Windward Passage, Anne thinking ships always seem to be nearby on her watch.

Thursday 2nd was another beautiful day as we sailed along the Cuban coast. I spent time checking the entry to Puerto de Vita on charts and the chart plotter. I did not notice until I was in the harbour that I had accidently moved the VHF from channel 16 to 17 so the Cuban authorities who had been tracking me on radar could not call me. They were not impressed but quickly forgave me. The marina was not marked on the charts and the Navionic chart on the plotter is not very detailed. Shelduck went aground on sand and was quickly towed off by the Cuban army who control and staff this port of entry. On berthing we were immediately checked by a doctor to see if it was safe to let Cuban officials aboard. For some reason he asked Anne to expose her back. Then with his all clear came officials of the Customs, Immigration and the Department of Agriculture boarded. Agriculture insisted that we immediately fit protection to our ropes to ensure any rats aboard did not enter Cuba. We then had a visit from Janet, marina boss and army member who spoke perfect English and asked me to call to her office the following morning. 

As instructed I called early next morning to Janet's office and she arranged for a taxi to take me 20km  to a bank to change Euro for Cuban CUC"s. Euro is the best currency to bring to Cuba as the rate of exchange is far better than other currencies, particularly the U.S. dollar. On my return I filled out more forms and arranged for dinner in the marina restaurant. Anne and I were the only diners that night. It was expensive for Cuba, 20 euro a head for lobster and a bottle of white wine from Chile. We were surprised to find a U.S. yacht next to us flying their flag. Breaking U.S. law, of course, spending money in Cuba. Also a German and a French boat. Whatever about the French economy, in our experience, they are the majority cruising the Caribbean at present followed by Canadians and Americans.