Coasting the Costa da Morte

Serendipity
David Caukill
Thu 2 Jun 2016 17:39

Thursday 2rd June, 2016

At Anchor, Finsterre, Galicia, Spain 43 22.1N 0 8 23.1W

Today's Blog by David  (Time zone: BST+1; UTC +2)

 

Leaving La Coruna on Wednesday, Hercules’ light house posted for a photo call as we headed south.

 

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We had delayed our departure for a couple of hours to allow the sea breeze to fill in and augment the forecast northerly wind.  As we emerged from the harbour, the wind gradually built and we deployed various sail configurations before we eventually settled on two reefs in everything - poled out genoa, staysail set - as we bowled down hill at 9kts in 25-30 knots of wind in bright sunshine and blue sky. Dolphins came and went – all was well with the world as we made a fast passage – 50 miles in 6 hours  - to Ria Camarinas, one of the northern Rias.

 

The anchorage north of the town was settled enough but the wind brought a short chop that would make for a wet dinghy ride back to the boat if we visited the town, so we stayed on board and ate the last of Reshma’s culinary contributions – a delicious cottage pie.

 

Up early this morning, we set off down the remainder of the Costa da Morte in much lighter winds, rounding Cape Finisterre around midday. We anchored and went ashore in the town of Finisterre for a light lunch.   By now the wind had died away and the sea was calm:  

 

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When we last sailed down this coast, I postulated that Finisterre meant “The End of the World”. It probably translates better as Land’s End – for that is what it is – pretty much the westernmost part of Europe.  (Cabo Torinana some 8 miles distant is actually further west but that ruins a good story).  It is also a destination for walkers and pilgrims follwing the Camarinas trail – some of whom – accompanied by the crew of Serendipity – walked out to the light house at the end of the Cape.

 

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And then they walked back into the town of Finisterre past this church.

 

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Lucnh having been rather less light than promised, together with the exertion of a four mile walk along the coast in the hot afternoon sun, an air of somnambulance has descended over my crew as we discuss whether to go through with our planned ‘proper meal’  ashore tonight.

 

In fact it has been  a short discussion because – to a man – they are all asleep!