Deer Isle, Maine

Seaduced
John & Jane Craven
Thu 16 Aug 2012 21:39
We wanted a bit of rest and relaxation before we were due to arrive in Thomaston at the weekend, as once we get there it will be all go to get the boat ready to haul out on Tuesday and then we are off to the west coast of America for a road trip around California with Frankie & Georgia, so Deer Isle seemed like the perfect choice.  Deer Isle is the 'main' island around which there are dozens of smaller islands with lovely peaceful anchorages.  After looking around at a few possibilities, we settled on a small anchorage nestled between Camp Island, Devils Island and Bold Island.  The weather was set to be fair with light winds so we dropped the anchor with the intention of staying for 4 nights.
Our first problem arose pretty soon after we arrived - the fridge went off! We have been trying to eat what was in the fridge and freezer before we switch it off to haul out, so we had quite an eclectic mix of food to get through anyway.  The contents of the fridge started to become a problem and even fresh milk was turning lumpy within 2 days!  Emergency measures needed, as if John doesn't get his morning cup of tea, there will be all kinds of trouble.  We froze milk in ice cube trays and, although it isn't bad, it chills the tea very quickly and has a slightly peculiar taste!  Even so we were managing.  Just as we thought all was going to be fine, the cooking gas ran out!  We had both propane tanks filled in Antigua, in April.  The first tank lasted an amazing 3 months, usually they last about 6 weeks at the most!  We had overheard a conversation in a  bar one evening that some of the tanks were being dangerously overfilled on the island, but thought no more of it.  We felt sure that when we put the second tank on we would have loads of gas to last us a good while - not so, it only lasted 3 weeks!  The only real way to 'guess' whether a tank is full or not is to weigh it, and it seemed ok....
So what to do, well you may remember that the last time we ran out of gas, no this is not a new thing, we, no actually, John, bought a one ring burner in Guadeloupe. What he hadn't realised was that the cooker needed a gas cylinder, not included, and that you couldn't buy them anywhere on the island.  When we were in the hardware shop in Shelburne a couple of weeks ago, they had a very similar cooker, for about a quarter of the price we paid, and, even better, they also sold gas cylinders, so we at least had gas.  Once had managed to fit the cylinder, we were up and running, albeit firing on considerably less rings than we are used to.  We have become quite adventurous in our meals, but after three days did treat ourselves to dinner ashore on Friday night in Stonington, the nearest town.  Posh as we undoubtedly think we are, we headed for the restaurant billed as 'fine dining', it was basically a fish and chip shop with a bit of a bar at the back.  Food however, was good and fresh and surprisingly cheap.  There were a few of the local 'lads' drinking at the bar, with their other halves, but worryingly, and maybe not surprising for such a small community, there did seem to be a strong genetic resemblance between most of them! 
So what goes on in Stonington - the day after we arrived, we needed to pick up emails so went ashore to find out.  The email/phone system has been a bit odd, we can get a phone signal, but no wifi on the boat, not entirely surprising really, but ashore, we could only get wifi and no phone signal! The walk round town took a very short time, but they do have a great ice cream shop, 3 scoops for $4, by far the cheapest we have seen and loads of flavours, their lobster ice cream involved the more usual chocolate covered jelly lobster shaped sweets, as opposed to the real thing!!
The main attraction in Stonington, and one which we managed to restrain ourselves from visiting, was the granite museum - it sounded a little dull to say the least.  As far as evening entertainment goes, the Opera House is the place to be.  The show while we were there was a guy showing his favourite 16mm films, which John assures me is the precursor to cine film, we also gave that one a miss!! There isn't much happening on any of the nearby islands, and one of the things the cruising guide suggests to do on one island is to guess the weight of the granite blocks on the harbour - this might give you some idea of how quiet it is if that is the main source of entertainment!!!
The next day was horrid, foggy, raining and generally only any good for doing a few inside boat jobs and catching up on our reading - I forgot to mention, the TV speakers aren't working either so we couldn't even watch a film! We got a bit fed up that day, but the next day, what a difference, blue sky, and sunshine, time for a bit of exploring.
After walking on Wreck Island, we headed to McGlathery Island, which has a nice bay for swimming. We had our cossies and towels with us, as I was determined we should swim at least once while we here. I went first, it was FREEZING!! It took me a while to fully duck myself under, and I can tell you I got out very quickly indeed! Having watched me brave the waves, John obviously had no choice but to get in!

 The beach at Wreck Island

 Gorgeous clear water

 In and submerged, very briefly

 I got out much quicker than I got in!!

 John preparing himself - is he man enough for the challenge?

 and he is in and fully submerged!!

  Stonington's 'world famous' opera house