Northbound from Tanna to Port Vila, Efate
Quartermoon
Mike Share & Sammy Byron
Tue 28 Sep 2010 22:33
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We are now on our way to Port Vila on Efate. There
isn't much wind so we are motor-sailing along the east coast of Tanna
and past Erromango. So far this afternoon we have caught 2 small-ish tuna
(make that 3 as we just brought another in). The first one was on the way in
when a shark hit it and there wasn't much left to salvage. We had it seared
in sesame seeds as a snack, not 10 minutes after it had been swimming
around!
 Tanna was really enjoyable - the locals are lovely
(unless you piss them off!) and we love the place, far more than Fiji. There is
so much to see and do and you feel you are actually seeing a real community
that isn't catering to tourists at all. Port Resolution doesn't see many
tourists, just the yachts that come through this time of year; it is a long way
from the airport and there isn't a road as
such. We had a great few days snorkelling ands exploring the numerous tracks
throughthe dense jungle.
  The next night we were scheduled to climb the
volcano rim and check out the spouting magma and rocks at night. We were pretty
excited and went ashore abt 4pm. Stanley (a local who has been helping us out)
looked a bit sheepish so we assumed it had fallen through. He finally explained
that there had been some problems at the village that controls the entrance to
the volcano trail. There has been an ongoing land dispute between 2 people
at neighbouring villages and this recently came to a head after a court case
verified ownership to one local. The other local had got really pissed off and
apparently kidnapped the land owners' son. The land owner found out
about this, ran over to the next village, found his son, laid out the kidnapper
(with no weapon) and whilst he was untying him, got set upon with a machete
by the wanna be land owner who had come back around. He ended up dead.
Apparently this sort of thing does not happen anymore so everyone was pretty
shocked and upset, hence we weren't going anywhere near the place due to very likely retaliation
fighting.
Slightly disappointed we walked up to Thomson's
village through the jungle in pitch black. We got to the ceremonial
clearing and I was invited to drink cava with the local men. It takes
place at a 'nakamal' which corresponds to a mens clubhouse, it is often a
shelter beneath a Banyan tree. The men and ONLY men will meet here at
sunset to talk and drink Kava under the tree, As Sammy & Emma were not
allowed to join in they had to stay in the "village" (about 4 huts). They seemed
to have fun teaching some of the local kids nursery rhymes. Not quit the
evening we had planned but fun anyway.
 We had to get across the island to Lenakel to check
in on Monday and it was a real mission. We managed to get a 4x4 to pick us up
and the route involved following river beds, crossing volcanic ash plains,
driving over tree trunk bridges, up mountain tracks and finally down into the
port. It's great to see the interior and it seems that much
hasn't changed in hundred's of years, just very traditional (and poor)
villages, very little traffic, everyone carrying machetes to cut their way
through the jungle. The highlight was passing the volcano plain right at the
base. It is like a moon landscape, just pure grey ash. 3 nutters from Oz were on
motorbikes seeing how high up the sides they could get before they got bogged
down in the ash and fell over! Looked great fun, especially when they turned and
headed straight back down.
  On the way back that afternoon we had to go through
the village where the land owner had been killed the day previous. It was a
pretty frightening scene as the funeral was taking place. Although we were only
driving through we felt pretty uncomfortable being there as there were at least
200 men lining the roads looking very angry and all wielding machetes. (Oh did I
mention that our 4x4 had picked up the killer's family on the way
into Lenakel and dropped them somewhere safe? They will have to leave their
village for at least a year or the son will most likely be killed in
retaliation.....)
Anyhow, later that night it was deemed safe enough
for us to go to the volcano and when we went back through the village the mood
had lightened somewhat! In fact we recognised quite a few people we've met in
various villages as they were all leaving the funeral and they were all
really happy to see us. The same 4x4 took us up a kind of track which is
completely washed away by the rains, it was an adventure in itself getting there
with the 3 of us choosing to stand in the truck bed to enjoy the
scenery.
As we went higher we finally came out of the
jungle and onto a mountain ridge completely covered in dried magma and ash. We
followed the ridge up to a col and before climbing to the top you could already
see burning rocks flying above the crater rim. It was an awesome sight, you can
stand right on the rim edge, looking straight down into the vent. Huge black
clouds of ash and steam bellowed out and the noise was frightening as hell. The
whole earth seemed to rumble then it was like being in a thunder clap. Straight
after the noise red hot lava rocks would start flying out of the caldera
hundreds of metres above our heads like giant fireworks. Pretty scary stuff,
especially when you hear the rocks hitting the sides and rolling back down
inside. Apparently its safe and they do close it when its gets OTT. However its
fairly disconcerting as you walk around as there are hundred's of massive lava
bombs that have landed and solidified on the path and all down the
outer sides; you would not want to be there when it starts to become
unsafe! We stayed maybe 90 minutes and it was erupting maybe
every 5 minutes or so. Absolutely incredible to see!
  Today I borrowed a dug out outrigger canoe form
Thomson, one of the locals and we paddled to a local village built by hot
springs. I came back to the boat with a canoe half full of huge lemons that
smell amazing. It was quite sad saying goodbye as the people here are so
friendly but time is ticking and we want to get diving....
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