Northern Lights: Abisko, Sweden
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Thursday 26th January – Northern Lights: Abisko, Sweden
Over the winter months back in the UK we continued our travels by means other than Pyxis; our first journey saw us heading north in search of the Northern Lights.
Thursday 26th January – Northern Lights: UK - Sweden 59:39.24N 17:56.35E
First thing this morning we packed our bags and set off for Heathrow T5 for the first leg of our journey north, a flight to Stockholm. We had a few hours to wait at Stockholm airport before we could begin the next leg of our trip, an overnight trip by sleeper train to Abisko, north of the Arctic Circle. Temperatures in Stockholm were hovering around freezing point and a fleet of snow-ploughs swept in formation around the terminals and along the taxi ways clearing the ice and snow.
Around six in the evening we descended into the depths below the airport to the subterranean railway station to catch our train.
When we booked the trip I thought how romantic it would be to take the overnight train north; I had visions of the splendour of the Orient Express (minus the murder of course), elegant dining and comfortable accommodation. Oh, how wrong I was. Our small sleeping compartment would have made a hobbit claustrophobic and ‘dining’ consisted of a small restaurant car selling pre-packed sandwiches and ‘ready meals’ at exorbitant prices; we were pleased we had brought some victuals with us.
Still, although a little utilitarian and cramped, the train was clean and warm, and we settled in for the night.
Stockholm Airport & Train compartment © Pyxis 2012
Friday 27th January – Northern Lights: Abisko, Sweden 68:21.503N 18:47.017E
We had booked the sleeper train as it was due to go straight through to our destination, arriving around lunchtime the next day…
… and so it was, at very first light, that there was a garbled message on the tannoy (in Swedish) about the next stop (note that I didn’t say we were woken up – we didn’t sleep. The track and wasn’t very smooth and, rather than a gentle rhythm rocking us to sleep, we had periods of calm between rattling through points). We lay in our bunks ‘debating’ which of us was going to get up and go and get some coffee, when the guard hammered on the compartment door and then stuck his head in to check we were up and ready to change trains.
15 minutes later, the train pulled into the station and we joined the rest of the bemused, bleary-eyed passengers shuffling off the train and onto the snowy platform with their luggage. Fortunately the replacement train was waiting just the other side of the platform ready-to-go.
As it turned out this train was more modern and comfortable. We swapped our cramped sleeper for an open carriage with large panoramic windows, and soon we were watching the stunning snow covered landscape and enjoying a cup of hot coffee.
We arrived at Abisko feeling rather groggy after our night on the train; however, the temperature as we alighted from the train was well below freezing and quickly woke us up.
We headed across the tracks to our hotel, uncertain what to expect. The STF Abisko Turiststation is a mountain station run by the Swedish hostelling association, Svenska Turistföreningen; indeed we had joined the UK Youth Hostel Association to go there. As it turned out we were delighted with our room; this was not what I remembered from my youth hostel days – this was just like a hotel room.
Dinner was on an elective basis i.e. reception asked ‘Do you want dinner?’ to which you responded ‘Yes’ or ‘No’. There was no menu to choose from but they were able to accommodate my vegetarian diet and the food was really very good; fine dining in fact (breakfast also proved to be excellent too.)
That evening we walked to the nearby ski lift and took a ride up the mountain to the Aurora Sky Station (http://www.auroraskystation.se). At this point we were simply wearing the thermals, jumpers and coats we had brought with us, it was clear this was not enough. Fortunately, the lift ride also included the use of heavy down jumpsuits as additional over clothing.
After we set off on the ski lift we then realised it stopped each time someone wanted to get on; the lift was busy and so it took ages to get to the top. With the outside temperature below -20°C and a fresh breeze adding appreciably to the wind chill as we approached the top we were quite literally freezing by the time we got off, especially our feet, and we were relieved to get into the sky station to thaw out.
(We were up there for about three hours but I decided to cross my legs rather than try the outside toilet J).
At the sky station, as well as blazing fires and a café, there was a small exhibition and guides who explained about the Northern Lights. It is hit and miss whether the lights appear and for how long, however, strong sunspot activity had meant that the lights had been strong recently and Abisko, technically a desert, regularly enjoys clear skies and so gives a good chance of seeing them.
We were not to be disappointed. The lights appeared a few times during the evening and the freezing conditions were quickly forgotten as we enjoyed the ghostly displays – faint at first but gradually brighter and then fading again.
Arriving at Abisko; Ski lift to Aurora Ski Station © Pyxis 2012
Saturday 28th January – Northern Lights: Abisko, Sweden 68:21.503N 18:47.017E
After breakfast we headed out into the winter sunshine to explore. We trekked down to the lake below the mountain station, its water frozen solid and the ground around deep in snow. We walked a short way out onto the ice and enjoyed the panoramic views across to the mountains.
Later, back at the mountain station, we went to the sports shop in reception soon after it opened and hired heavy polar clothing and boots for the rest of our stay. It was a struggle to carry it to our room as it was so substantial. Donning it for all our outdoor excursions made a huge difference though and we were able to enjoy going for additional walks which we otherwise could not have managed.
After dinner, we went out to look for the Northern Lights again wrapped in our heavy duty gear. This time we walked down to the lake, discovering that lanterns had been hung along the paths to guide our way. The night was clear and there was no wind down in the valley so it was much more pleasant. Once again the ribbons of light appeared and danced across the skies, better than the night before - a great night out. Eventually we forced ourselves to return and go to bed.
Abisko © Pyxis 2012
Sunday 29th January – Northern Lights: Abisko, Sweden 68:21.503N 18:47.017E
This morning we were up early and joined some fellow guests for a guided snow shoe hike which took us off piste into the surrounding national park. It is still quite a shock to go from +20°C inside the mountain station to -20°C just outside the door. We soon got accustomed to having tennis rackets on our feet and enjoyed the walk in the crisp, sunny air – our guide pointed out animal tracks along the way and explained more about Abisko.
Once again this evening we went out to watch the lights. The webcam up at the SkyStation meant we could wait in the warmth of the hostel watching the sky on our laptop and then suit up and dash outside when the lights started to appear. Once again we walked down to the lake, there were no lanterns tonight but our torches guided our way and gave a totally different feel to the evening. When we came back we found a good vantage point on the balcony at the hostel and were able to watch some more.
Abisko: Snow hiking
Abisko: Northern Lights © Pyxis 2012
Monday 30th January – Northern Lights: Abisko, Sweden 68:21.503N 18:47.017E
After breakfast we suited up once more and this time took the footpath running along the road and railway to the small village of Abisko itself, quite a trek. In the afternoon we went for a final walk around before reluctantly returning our polar gear to the shop. This evening we watched the lights appear once again, this time from the comfort of the mountain station – the lights tonight were probably the best yet with some dancing lights with a bit of purple in them as well as the more common green colour.
Abisko
Abisko: Northern Lights © Pyxis 2012
Tuesday 31st January – Northern Lights: Abisko, Sweden - UK 51:18.295N 0:29.227W
Today it was time to head for home. This time the transport schedules all fell into line - we caught the midday train to Kiruna, had a short taxi ride to the local airport, caught the mid-afternoon flight down to Stockholm, and then connected to our early evening flight back to Heathrow.
Abisko; Kiruna © Pyxis 2012
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